Coolant temperature VERY hot while towing (1 Viewer)

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Coolant temperature VERY hot while towing-Problem found!!

EDIT: Problem found, see post#33

Warning: long post with lots of details to help you diagnose.

1994, about 150,000 miles, stock gears, 285/75 tires, towing around 4000-4300 lbs. with some long uphills up to 6000 ft. New two row Spectra Premium aluminum radiator, hoses, and thermostat less then a year ago, Aisin blue fan clutch just drained and refilled with 10k cst a month ago. Radiator cap is a Stant in good shape, releases at 13 psi like it should, only holds 10 psi long term on the tester, but allows coolant to go both ways like it should. Cooling system holds 14 psi fine. Cooling temperature gauge installed with sender in the outlet of the head on the drivers side where everyone installs them, which is about the hottest place. Snorkel installed for cooler intake air temps. 50/50 mix of green. Driving around town normally I get 180-195 temps. Got 10.2 mpg while towing on this trip.

On my last trip I towed my travel trailer about 400 miles each way. On the way there outside temps were around 80, and I got the cooling system up to 228 at one point briefly. That was in second gear, 4000-4400 rpm up a steep hill for an extended period. Transmission got up to 200. It would cool off relatively quickly and quite a bit on the downhills. I was normally running around 200-215 on flat ground with the AC on a lot. I ran both heaters on high on the steep hills.

On my way back, outside temp was 95, cooling system got up to a max of 235 once, and a number of times was 220-230, again up the same steep hills, second gear, 4000-4400 rpm for an extended period. Transmission got up to 219. It did not seem to cool of as much or near as quickly going on the down hills. On flat ground I was running around 208-224. I ran both heaters on high on the steep hills, and even on the relatively flat ground near the end of the trip.

Besides it getting really hot, here is the weird thing. Ever since I bought it 4 years ago, it has always seemed to overfill and spill out coolant from the overflow bottle on long trips. This last trip, radiator was full, overflow had a little in it, and within an hour of towing which included one steep, long hill, the overflow was completely full and it had been spewing some out of the overflow bottle. On the way back I actually had the radiator down about an inch with the overflow empty, and the same thing happened: filled the bottle and spilled out more. The system seems to be over pressurizing. It even did this some when the radiator cap was new.

I have done two block tests, including one today, and fluid never changes color. Did the test with a cold engine, and at 190, both at idle and at 2000 rpm. So head gasket does not seem likely.

When engine is hot, the fan clutch can not be stopped by hand since I put the new fluid in.

The AC cut off is 226, with cut back in at 217. While at those extreme temps mentioned above, the engine was still pulling fine with seemingly no reduction in power. So my questions are:

1. Being that my gauge sender is in the hottest place, how hot is too hot?
2. Why is the system seemingly over pressurizing?
3. What can I do to bring these temps down some? I would like to keep it under 220 even on the steep hills while towing.
4. How long should a radiator cap last?

Thanks in advance for any help. I have searched and searched. :bang: No offense, but please only reply if you really know what you are talking about, preferably with firsthand experience in a similar case if possible. I know what I am doing, but this one has me scratching my head...... About the only thing I can think of that I have not checked yet is if there are any cool spots in the new radiator pointing to a blockage, and I have not flushed out the system either.

For those of you that know southern California, the hills that gave me trouble were "Goat Mountain pass" halfway between Barstow and Lucerne Valley on route 247, Tehachipi hills on route 58, especially coming from the Bakersfield side, the long uphills going up to Yosemite on route 41 from Fresno, and going up to Big Bear from Lucerne Valley up the super steep and switchback route 18 (I actually go up this in low range from the cement plant to the top).
 
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What type of fan clutch? What type of radiator? Have to checked for a head gasket issue if it's spewing out coolant from the overflow?
 
Aisin clutch, AutoZone Spectra Premium Radiator. Already checked for head gasket, did two block tests.
 
Has the foam been replaced around the radiator? Blue fan clutch?

Edit, do you have a winch bumper and winch? Armor? How much weight are you carrying inside?

Just wondering since I pulled 215* up the Sunol grade and 209* up the Altamont pass in 85* temp fully loaded with bumpers, sliders ect. 315's and 4:88's and fully loaded with camping gear and the roof rack with 3 guys. With the A/C off and no heater on.

I just replaced the radiator with a aluminium Koyo, new aisin water pump and new style blue hub fan clutch with 20k CST and zerex GO5 coolant. I think my winch and solenoid is impeding air flow at highway speeds. I also just had it slogged that week and the report showed a great running engine. I'm basing my temp readings of the Ultra gauge.

Few weeks before I had a constant 200-204 with A/C on empty coming back from Reno with ambient around 80-85.
 
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that coolant overflow is not normal, weird how the block test did pass the test. i had a similar problem with a motorcycle, the radiator cap tested to spec but the seal on end was not sealing properly on the radiator so when the system pressurized it went past the cap and into the resoirvoir. i would get a new cap to be on the safe side. and yes that grape vine around bakersfield is mighty steep. couple other things, you can try adjusting the fan clutch to engage earlier, and just to be on the safe side i would rule out the water pump as well if you havent done so already. make sure there is no air bubbles trapped in the system some where.
 
sounds like you're overheating (boiling over).

It also sounds like you're on the right track, fixing the right things so far.

If it doesn't happen with normal loads, only towing big loads on big hills in hot weather, the solution would be to slow down, or to modify your cooling system for more capacity.

Either increase the system pressure to raise the boiling point or increase air flow thru the rad. Improve fan efficiency, fan shroud, louvers in the hood, etc.

how old is your rad cap? And what brand is it? pressure rating?

I'd consider trying a new toyota cap. Probably with a slightly higher rating to see if it will help prevent your boilover under severe loads. The catch is that a higher pressure rad cap will put more stress on all the plumbing in the system. Anything that is marginal and on-the-way-out will probably die and need replacement sooner. TRD, Koyo, Greddy, etc all make higher pressure rad caps that could work.
 
Has the foam been replaced around the radiator? Blue fan clutch?

Edit, do you have a winch bumper and winch? Armor? How much weight are you carrying inside?

Just wondering since I pulled 215* up the Sunol grade and 209* up the Altamont pass in 85* temp fully loaded with bumpers, sliders ect. 315's and 4:88's and fully loaded with camping gear and the roof rack with 3 guys. With the A/C off and no heater on.

Foam around radiator? Not sure what you are talking about.
Yes, blue clutch.
Extras include sliders, full length heavy duty roof rack, and an extra 100 lbs in the truck more then normal.
I too have had the roof rack loaded to the hilt, as well as the inside of the car, with three adults with no issues two years ago.


and just to be on the safe side i would rule out the water pump as well if you havent done so already. make sure there is no air bubbles trapped in the system some where.

Water pump is obviously working as coolant is circulating. Are you implying that it might not be spinning as fast as it should some how? I would tend to think it is okay as it cools down on the downhills as soon as most of the load is off the engine. I probably should check the bubble possibility, I have a really steep dirt bank I can pull it onto. Thanks.
 
If it doesn't happen with normal loads, only towing big loads on big hills in hot weather, the solution would be to slow down, or to modify your cooling system for more capacity.

Either increase the system pressure to raise the boiling point or increase air flow thru the rad. Improve fan efficiency, fan shroud, louvers in the hood, etc.

how old is your rad cap? And what brand is it? pressure rating?

I'd consider trying a new toyota cap. Probably with a slightly higher rating to see if it will help prevent your boilover under severe loads. The catch is that a higher pressure rad cap will put more stress on all the plumbing in the system. Anything that is marginal and on-the-way-out will probably die and need replacement sooner.

I can't slow down or else it won't pull the hill. As it is to get back up to Big Bear from Lucerne Valley up the really steep part I just use low range.
More capacity would be nice, but the only option there would be a slightly bigger radiator, right?
I "think" the cap is only a year or two old, but could be three. It is a Stant 13 psi. How much higher would you be talking going with cap pressure? Thanks.
 
i would start off with a oem cap, you said there is no head gasket issues, and the coolant is mixed 50/50 it shouldent boil over. the cheapest item and easiest would be to get a new cap. make sure its a toyota cap.
 
Is there really something so much better about an OEM Toyota radiator cap? I had one a few years ago that failed just like any other after a while. Are Stant caps just as good? I have always thought highly of Stant products.
Regarding pressure, the 98+ Landcruisers use a 16 psi cap. Best I can tell sizing is the same, so how would that be for a replacement cap?
 
More capacity comes in various forms.

a) larger rad for more fluid capacity
b) more airflow
c) higher heat capacity via higher pressure, which raises the boiling point of your coolant.

*Note that improper mix of coolant can also cause overheating issues because the water content is what actually transfers the heat. So thicker coolant mixes are detrimental. You can check your mix by using a refractometer or a hydrometer (density meter) and set it to -35C (-30F to -32F). If the coolant is yucky, now would be a good time to do a flush or at least a drain and fill.

All that said, I'd start by getting a 1.1 bar toyota cap. That will be about 16psi. The one you have now is about 0.9 bar. Believe it or not, the extra $5 you spend at toyota for the cap will be worth the money, especially if it helps cure your overheating woes.

If you're just on the ragged-edge of boiling over, that 0.2 bar will help. And even if you're not on the ragged edge, the 0.2 bar will delay the boiling over until you're closer to the top of the hill.
 
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Jeremy,

I had a similar issue recently with my truck '92 80 series hauling my boat... What seemed to be my problem was my tranny fluid needed to be changed. My tranny fluid was getting too hot due to it being older and in need of a flush. The heat from the tranny was then being transferred to the engine and back, so my engine was running hot due to my fluid (engine runs hot - transmission runs hot and vice versa). I have since changed the fluid and it is running great.
Hope this helps... Jake
 
I wonder if:
- the aftermarket radiator exchanges heat as well as an OEM brass three-row designed for a 93-94.
- the radiator shroud is in place and fits gap-free with the aftermarket radiator
- the blue hub fan clutch has been adjusted using either LandTank's wet method or Tools-r-us' dry method
- 20k silicone would make more sense when it's run above 4000 rpm at low speeds for an extended period of time
- the cooling system has been flushed to remove some of the precipitates & sediment that others have found in their FZJ80 cooling systems
- the AC condenser has been cleaned to remove bugs and dirt that may impede airflow through it.
 
I wonder if:
- the aftermarket radiator exchanges heat as well as an OEM brass three-row designed for a 93-94.
- the radiator shroud is in place and fits gap-free with the aftermarket radiator
- the blue hub fan clutch has been adjusted using either LandTank's wet method or Tools-r-us' dry method
- 20k silicone would make more sense when it's run above 4000 rpm at low speeds for an extended period of time
- the cooling system has been flushed to remove some of the precipitates & sediment that others have found in their FZJ80 cooling systems
- the AC condenser has been cleaned to remove bugs and dirt that may impede airflow through it.

^^^^
Best post in the thread. Excellent advice.
 
Great advice but don't forget the undercover/splashpan!

This completes the cooling system.
 
I wonder if:
- the aftermarket radiator exchanges heat as well as an OEM brass three-row designed for a 93-94.
- the radiator shroud is in place and fits gap-free with the aftermarket radiator
- the blue hub fan clutch has been adjusted using either LandTank's wet method or Tools-r-us' dry method
- 20k silicone would make more sense when it's run above 4000 rpm at low speeds for an extended period of time
- the cooling system has been flushed to remove some of the precipitates & sediment that others have found in their FZJ80 cooling systems
- the AC condenser has been cleaned to remove bugs and dirt that may impede airflow through it.

^^^
Great advice
It would appear that you have a good handle on the cooling system, however there are some other systems that can cause undue stress on the colling system.
Exhaust - Clogged cats or Exhaust could be the root of the issue, look for kinks in the pipe and check the cat temps - not sure what normal range is for this...
A prior poster noted it could be Trans fluid
Check your transfer case as well - if you have the CDL and pin 7 mod you can try to lock this up prior to getting to speed and see if there is any difference.
 
The splash/pebble guard that bolts below the front of the engine. Where the steering stabilizer is.
 

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