CDL switch help on 1994 80 series

[bmwjnky]

So I was finally able to get a CDL switch and started the install today. Pin 7 mod is done and everything is back together but I can not find a plug behind the dash that fits my 1992 CDL switch that I got for my 1994 FZJ. Did I just waste $40 on a switch that wont work in my 1994? Any help would be great, I tried the search but could only find installs for a 96 and newer FZJ.

 

[haligen]

When I did my 93 the harness had a foam wrapped plug with a yellow loop wire that had to be removed to before connecting to the switch.

 

[retrofive]

It will fit. Same as mine. Somewhere in there should be the harness. It will be wrapped in foam most likely and will have cap/dongle on you need to remove (remove foam then "cap") The cap dongle thingy will most likely have a yellow jumper cable on it.

Dig in there!

 

[retrofive]

When I did my 93 the harness had a foam wrapped plug with a yellow loop wire that had to be removed to before connecting to the switch.

What he said LOL

 

[kybishop]

I just did this on my 94 like 45 minutes ago. It has been sitting in my glove box for months.

My switch was hanging straight down in the very back. The wiring is covered with the black ribbed plastic sleeve and the switch plug is white with the gray foam wrapped around it. It was hanging down roughly behind where the heater controls are. I had a hard time reaching back in there and pulling it up but hooked it all up and seems to work fine.

Yours should be there. Get you a light and look for either a plug with the foam around it or the wiring with the black plastic electrical sleeve hanging down towards the back directly behind where the plug goes. May have to look through the other plug wiring.

 

[bmwjnky]

Thanks everyone for the fast replies, I'll give it another go tomorrow. I did find a foam wrapped connector with what looks like a jumper connector in it but it had 3-4 wires. I take some more stuff apart when I look tomorrow. I was getting frustrated because this is the last cheap mod on my list before I save up for suspension and couldn't find the right plug behind the dash.

 

[adventr]

Thanks everyone for the fast replies, I'll give it another go tomorrow. I did find a foam wrapped connector with what looks like a jumper connector in it but it had 3-4 wires. I take some more stuff apart when I look tomorrow. I was getting frustrated because this is the last cheap mod on my list before I save up for suspension and couldn't find the right plug behind the dash.

Bet that connector you found was it. 2 wires for the CDL function, and 2 more wires for the lighted portion of the switch.

Unplug that jumper connector from the one you found, and see if your CDL switch will plug into it.

 

[kybishop]

That sounds like it. Mine had the yellow jumper wire and foam on it. The switches snap on and lock on. You just have to push the small white release in and the part with the foam and jumper comes off. The switch snaps right on and into the dash face.

I don't know what lift you are looking for but I was able to get the OME heavies on here used at a good price. They did not have a lot of miles and seem to pop up quite often. I bought the front and rear from separate members then bought new shocks. Just an option to save some money and you can spend a little at a time that way too.

Good luck.

KB

 

[bmwjnky]

Bet that connector you found was it. 2 wires for the CDL function, and 2 more wires for the lighted portion of the switch.

Unplug that jumper connector from the one you found, and see if your CDL switch will plug into it.

I put the cover back on it so I can drive home in a little while so I'll have to try tomorrow.

 

[Scalci]

Fom where did you guys buy the switch?

 

[haligen]

Cruiser parts.net I think is the website I got mine from.

 

[ChristmasMud]

I know the 95+ guys are able to use hazard switches for their CDL are the older 93-94 cruisers able to use the same switches and just locate them near the rear heater switch?

 

[ToyotaDon]

Here's a pic of the plug...and my hand.

 

[jynx]

I know the 95+ guys are able to use hazard switches for their CDL are the older 93-94 cruisers able to use the same switches and just locate them near the rear heater switch?

I'm sure a hazzard would work, but for the 91-94 with the curved slots I have read of people using the rear defrost switch or an ECT switch for this. If you can get the pinout right it is just an on/ off switch. Then just relabal it

 

[Rallyroo]

Here's a pic of the plug...and my hand.

Hand model, eh? How much is your hand insured for? 1 mil?

 

[bmwjnky]

That looks different from the connector I found yesterday with the jumper so I'll have to do some more digging at lunch. How hard was it taking the whole panel off where the switch goes?

Here's a pic of the plug...and my hand.

 

[kybishop]

I just took the face partially off so I don't know about taking the whole thing off. It was difficult to get mine out with the face partially off.

I picked my CDL switch up on the classifieds for $15 from a member parting out an early FJ80. Just keep watching and then be the first in line.

 

[ToyotaDon]

I was upgrading the radio at the same time, so it was all apart. IIRC, you can loosen the upper panel, including the instrument cluster bezel, and pull the lower one out.

 

[Sam Stewart]

x11 on the plug being wrapped up on the harness. Toyota always does it that way. There are a couple of different switches that are actually FOR the CDL. The one everyone wants is the one that is the same size as the hazard switch out of the later model 80s. I sell that one for $89.58 shipped.

 

[bmwjnky]

Success

I ended up having to unclip the facing for the radio/heater controls to look behind the dash for the wires and sure enough I found them. It was partially behind the radio so I would of never found it if I didn't take the facing off. I ended up taking more stuff apart than I probably needed too like the lower kick panel and heater duct but overall it wasn't too bad of a job. Now that I've done it I could probably do it for someone in about 15-20 min. Also when function testing before it was put back together the center diff seems to lock and unlock much faster with the dash switch than it used to with the shift lever going into low range.