Need something to bring in case I get a flat.... Stock bottle jack is too short... Dont want to mess with the Hi Lift...
any recommendations on a taller bottle jack?
- Thread starter citadel
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
Overland Journal recommended one. It was made in Germany but was over $250
Stock Land Rover ones seem to be really nice--Alia176 has a few of these and they have worked wonders on the trail. They go higher too.
Junkyard LR's (there should be plenty there) will probably yield ya what you need.
Junkyard LR's (there should be plenty there) will probably yield ya what you need.
- Thread starter
- #4
awesome thanks!!
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
How about a HiLift offroad base?
It fits the factory bottle jack well and lifts it about 3 inches, which is plenty. I really like the Toyota screw jacks and make it a point to take them apart and keep them lubed up. They are extremely robust and strong.
The earlier ones are especially nice-all cast steel and will last until the end of time.
It fits the factory bottle jack well and lifts it about 3 inches, which is plenty. I really like the Toyota screw jacks and make it a point to take them apart and keep them lubed up. They are extremely robust and strong.
The earlier ones are especially nice-all cast steel and will last until the end of time.
- Thread starter
- #6
ahh... so basically use my stock bottle jack and set it on the high lift offroad base?
harbor frieght bottle jack - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
Curtis,
PM brettinsanantonio. He is a Land Rover / Cruiserhead that works a a rover shop in San Antonio. He might have a lead on those LR bottle jacks previously mentioned.
PM brettinsanantonio. He is a Land Rover / Cruiserhead that works a a rover shop in San Antonio. He might have a lead on those LR bottle jacks previously mentioned.
Yeah...just keep your arms, legs, children, passersby, friends, friend's arms, legs, et cetera out from under the truck while it's off the ground!
And if it falls...be ready to run, or at least do a cat-like leap to escape the 5k pound truck that's about to crush you.
X2 on the Land Rover Bottle Jack. They are one thing supplied by Land rover that is superior to Toyota!
You'll get them in Discovery's Rangie's & Defender's, they're standard across the range.
You'll get them in Discovery's Rangie's & Defender's, they're standard across the range.
I didn't suggest to have your arms, legs, children, passersby, friends, friend's arms, legs, et cetera under the truck without a jack stand
Why would you even consider going under the truck without a jack stand?
- Thread starter
- #13
are you saying that using a 2x4 under the stock bottle jack is dangerous?
Does anyone know the lift height of the Land Rover jack? Just for comparison my stock Cruiser jack has a lift of 16 1/2 inches.
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No, lumber is perfectly acceptable to use if you have to, in fact it can be safer to use for example in an application where steel on steel would provide less friction...
Just don't work under or get any part of the vehicle that is suspended by a jack alone, mechanical or hydraulic... stay out of "the bite". Crib it with lumber or use a jack stand, in a pinch as a minimum, depending on what you're doing, lay your spare (or flat tire and wheel) under a low point of the truck's frame or axle (if your lift isn't too tall, at least that way the truck won't completely wind up on the ground).
I carry a wheel chock to place behind the tire when the truck is on an incline as well, just in case I can't make it to a flat spot so that I don't have to rely on the park brake alone, especially if you have a rear wheel off the ground (more important on a manual transmission part-time system).
This guy probably wished he'd used one...
YouTube - Sunrise Lake Truck roll over
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alia176
SILVER Star
As Beno said, the factory LR bottle jack is fantastic. Here's a pic comparing the two jacks. As stated above, use a 2x4 or a hi lift jack base for additional height advantage.
This is a personal preference, but I like hydraulic advantage vs the mechanical screw advantage of the Toyota jack. From the safety standpoint, I much prefer the cradle of the LR jack. YMMV.
Look for the LR jack under the hood of a Disco 1 and I think they're in there sideways. So make sure that the seal is working and fluid is in the jack before purchasing. Test the jack before purchasing.
Cheers.
edit: both jacks are fully extended so it looks like the factory jack has about one inch of height advantage.
This is a personal preference, but I like hydraulic advantage vs the mechanical screw advantage of the Toyota jack. From the safety standpoint, I much prefer the cradle of the LR jack. YMMV.
Look for the LR jack under the hood of a Disco 1 and I think they're in there sideways. So make sure that the seal is working and fluid is in the jack before purchasing. Test the jack before purchasing.
Cheers.
edit: both jacks are fully extended so it looks like the factory jack has about one inch of height advantage.
murf
Lifer
I carry a compact high lifting floor jack. I also bring along a 4x4 square of wood for certain situations. The jack was on sale and wasnt too bad cost-wise. Maybe twice as big and twice as heavy as a good bottle jack but more stable and powerful.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Agree. LR guys worship thes things, and yet they still leak and the hydraulics are unreliable. With the Toy screw jack, there is basically nothing to go wrong, and if they get hard to turn, they can be rebuilt in about 15 minutes.
You can use the Toyota jack as a jack stand, the LR one, not so much.
Ali-If you like that cradle so much, you could weld one on the Toyota jack for almost no effort.
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
the mechanical nature of the LC jack is pretty hard to beat.
If you know you'll need extra height on a regular basis, you could weld some 2x2 steel to the bottom of the jack. Use two pieces and thickish walls. I'm no engineer, i'm sure someone will speak up about the minimum thickness needed to feel safe. Or weld a plate on the bottom of the jack, then you can put a couple of bolts through the plate and attach the jack securely to a 2x6 wooden board (or 4x4, or 2x10, or hilift base, or whatever floats your boat). your truck is unlikely to crush the wood, the "problem" would arise if the extended jack slips off of the wood for some reason. Adding a bolt or two will keep the two together.
If you know you'll need extra height on a regular basis, you could weld some 2x2 steel to the bottom of the jack. Use two pieces and thickish walls. I'm no engineer, i'm sure someone will speak up about the minimum thickness needed to feel safe. Or weld a plate on the bottom of the jack, then you can put a couple of bolts through the plate and attach the jack securely to a 2x6 wooden board (or 4x4, or 2x10, or hilift base, or whatever floats your boat). your truck is unlikely to crush the wood, the "problem" would arise if the extended jack slips off of the wood for some reason. Adding a bolt or two will keep the two together.
