Warn 9.5 XP Problem (1 Viewer)

[Imagery]

I went to use my winch the other day, pulled the line out and hooked up and began to run it back in and it worked pulling up the slack for a few seconds and then I stopped to make sure it did not get to hot. Then it would not start back up again. It clicks like the silinoids are engaging but the drum does not turn in either direction. I kept trying to get it to work and only one time it started to turn for a second and then nothing after that. What do I need to replace, both of those silinoids or is something else going on? O made sure the voltage and current source was enough and there was only a slight drop of about 1/2 volt when operating the control switch.

 

[sleeoffroad]

I posted this in the 100 section. Sound like you have this problem as well.

Just FYI for people that use Warn 9.5 XP Winches with a feet forward mounting (like on some 100 Series bumpers). The motor has two drain slots 90 degrees from each other. The winch motor comes from the factory configured so it will drain when mounted feet down and the other drain hole is sealed with silicone. If you mount it feet forward, then the motor needs to be removed, the sealed drain hole opened and the other one sealed.

If you do not do this, then you will end up with a trashed motor if you get water in it.

 

[wfd175]

Before I remove the winch from the ARB, does anyone think the the motor could be removed without taking it out of the bumper?

From what I can tell from the exploded parts diagram of the 9.5xp, what connects the motor to the drum assembly? Are there bolts under the ribbed end cap on the motor? Possibly the 4 holes shown in the picture? I can see the motor housing appears to be keyed into the drum in the photo.

 

[Imagery]

Well that is probably what happened because I have had it forward mounted for a couple years. I also noticed some corrosion on the drum beneath the synthetic line. I don't know if the drain issue is related to that but it is still something I need to watch because it is not good for the synthetic line. I will take the winch off and get a closer look and if the motor is corroded, does Warn have any kind of warranty or repair service?

 

[sleeoffroad]

They will not warantee it. The instructions with the winch clearly states you need check the breather when mounted feet forward. They do have spares. A complete motor is about $300.

 

[Polak]

Just went through a similar problem with my T-Max, only my breather was clogged w/ MUD

LINK

 

[Imagery]

Well thats just my luck. It's always something it seems. I remember when installing the winch that it was mentioned about the drain slots but I was just unclear about exactly what they were talking about. I should have asked here about it but just dealt with getting it mounted securley. I can get it to turn if I keep pushing and releasing the forward and backward switch and eventually it will start but it runs smooth and then it slows down like it is binding and then it loosens up again. I am sure it has corrosion inside because you can hear the crap crunching in there as the drum turns. \\Would it just be as well to get a new one or send it into Warn for repair or could I do it myself? You said for around $300 for a new motor plus whatever else needs replacing or a new one for $700-$800?

 

[ranma21]

I posted this in the 100 section. Sound like you have this problem as well.

Just FYI for people that use Warn 9.5 XP Winches with a feet forward mounting (like on some 100 Series bumpers). The motor has two drain slots 90 degrees from each other. The winch motor comes from the factory configured so it will drain when mounted feet down and the other drain hole is sealed with silicone. If you mount it feet forward, then the motor needs to be removed, the sealed drain hole opened and the other one sealed.

If you do not do this, then you will end up with a trashed motor if you get water in it.

I never run the winch since it was purchased more than 2 years, after I read this, I took it apart and find some rust in there mostly at the 90 degree bottom when the winch face forward, apparently there were small amount of water trapped in there long enough to rust a bit. Do you think I should take the motor apart, clean it and spray with rust reppellent paint or just leave it as is and plug the hole with silicone? Thanks

 

[hzavarce]

Guys, need help about this. I had the same issue, and I started a new thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/237513-warn-9-5xp-motor-water-damage.html

Thanks

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

One day someone will make a really good winch, it will be expensive, but it will be waterproof, it will work like its supposed to, and it will be reliable, and it will be worth all the extra cost, over having to buy a Warn.............

Aisin made a copy of the high mount many moons ago, which work ok tricked up, as a good japanese version of an american idea not carried out well.

 

[Bear80]

A hydraulic will never have that problem I've been very happy with my Mile Marker.

That's a real bummer to hear about the winch when they are so expensive. The replacement motors are not that cheap either.

 

[wfd175]

Bad News

I contacted Warn about my motor in my 2.5 year old 9.5xp. My motor is rusted up. They won’t cover it because they have a 1 year warranty period. They said to contact my local service center. Which I did.

The price for the motor alone is $384.82. Another $100.00 to install it and go through the winch. Not really sure what I should do. I see that a replacement costs over $1000.00 online at a few sites. I originally paid 879.99. in Jan. 06. What are your thoughts on getting it fixed? Or should I find a used replacement.

I wish I could find my original directions to verify that the instructions on the drain holes were included.

 

[hzavarce]

Try to fix it first. Taking the motor apart is not too hard. Clean everything up, and use some dielectric grease to prevent future rusting. Check the brushes, the whole assembly may be in bad shape, and you can get a replacement for those.

I did that to mine, and it worked after I put it back together. Off course, I did not replace anything as Warn replaced the motor for me. I was impressed that the motor actually worked… I think they are very robust.

If you get it to work, make sure you use the winch periodically. This will ensure that moisture don’t build up, thefore preventing potential rust build up.

 

[wfd175]

Try to fix it first. Taking the motor apart is not too hard. Clean everything up, and use some dielectric grease to prevent future rusting. Check the brushes, the whole assembly may be in bad shape, and you can get a replacement for those.

I did that to mine, and it worked after I put it back together. Off course, I did not replace anything as Warn replaced the motor for me. I was impressed that the motor actually worked… I think they are very robust.

If you get it to work, make sure you use the winch periodically. This will ensure that moisture don’t build up, thefore preventing potential rust build up.

I tried to open it up last night. I think it's rusted together. I'm going to take it to a local alternator repair shop that works on our firetruck alternators after work. He's going to open it up and repair it for me. While I look over his shoulder of course?

 

[wfd175]

P/U

I tried to open it up last night. I think it's rusted together. I'm going to take it to a local alternator repair shop that works on our firetruck alternators after work. He's going to open it up and repair it for me. While I look over his shoulder of course?

Heading to the local shop to pick it up tonight. I didn't make it over there this week due to a PHH blowout. The total bill is 136.00 to clean it out, lube and tune up. It was a mess according to the shop. But there were able to fix it.

$136.00 is much better than sending it over to the local warn repair center as per Warn Inc. They quoted me over 300.00 for the motor alone, and a minumum 100.00 put it in and "go over" the winch.

I'm not concerned about the warranty, simply because I think that the shop I took it to knows what they are looking at more than a small town "Certified" Warn Sales/Repair shop. Electrically speaking of course.

http://local.yahoo.com/info-17680219-central-automotive-electric-union

 

[hzavarce]

nice !, I think that for $136 it is worthwhile to give it a try. Good luck !

 

[wfd175]

Vendor

nice !, I think that for $136 it is worthwhile to give it a try. Good luck !

I asked him the question about reliability. He said it should be fine. When a motor has heat related damage is when the reliability comes into question. Corrosion only makes it not work. They cleaned the corrosion, (however they do that) and everything checked out ok. They did a diagnostic load test on it checking it with Bosch Spec, which I would imagine is more than just putting 12v to it and seeing if the motor fires.

They've done work on our generators and alternators for the fired epartment for years, and we've never had to take something back.

And your right $136.00 vs. $400.00+ is definately worth a shot. Besides, I feel that since they actually are electronic type specialists, it's better than having some guy who's taken a few classes on how to swap out Warn parts working on my winch. I'm sure there are more qualified Warn repair reps, (Mud sponsors included of course) , but my midwest Warn Repair Center rep had a PO Box address box, was a shop I never heard anyone mention before, and a kid screaming in the background. It didn't give me the warm fuzzies.

 

[Imagery]

Well after 4-5 years since I ruined my last 9.5XP, I just got a new one for Christmas. The first thing I did was take the motor off to address the drain issue. there was no silicone in either drain hole but it does have a paper gasket all the way around. When I pulled the motor off, the paper gasket was loose around the top but on the bottom it appears that is the only place some type of sealant or adhesive was used at the factory. I went ahead and turned the drum feet forward and siliconed the upper hole or slot, put a little on the gasket in the same place and bolted the motor back on. I checked while tightening that I had some sealant squeeze out from that upper slot, then smoothed it out with my finger. It looks good but I was wondering if I should apply a thin coat all the way around the motor/drum contact area except for the bottom drain. The sealant goes on white but cures clear so it would still look clean but sure no water, at least from rain and washing, would be able to get inside. I read some posts where someone sealed both slots with sealant but he knew he was going to be taking on high water crossings where the wince might be submerged. I don't think I will have my winch submerged so that shouldn't be an issue. I think that the bottom should be open to help drain any condensation that may develop inside. It might also be a good idea after using winch in very wet conditions, to perhaps spray some WD-40 with the red tube up into the bottom drain.
Also I was wondering about the cap end on the motor. I didn't remove it but of course it was loose. Should any sealant be applied around that cap where the open end and motor housing come together? Since that is not a tight fit and there is a small gap. it seems that water could enter there as well. That seems like it would have been a good idea for Warn to made an internal groove and an O-ring…….. Or did they since I didn't remove the cap all the way? I want to do everything I can to keep this winch in working order for many years and not have water and corrosion be an issue.

 

[Imagery]

Well I see that no comments have been made so I just did what I thought was best. I ensured that the paper gaskets on both ends of the motor made good contact and seal, left the bottom, 6 o'clock drain open and the 3 0'clock hole sealed with silicone. After I got the winch installed with feet forward, then it was not possible to use the supplied control pack mounting bracket. I thought about making one that attached to the two cross bars on the winch which were now facing to the back but that seemed like a lot of trouble. So what I did instead is used the light mounting tab and used a piece flat steel, drilled a big hole for the light to still mount and then the two small ones for the control pack. I made it long enough so I could place the pack as close to the grille without touching and still leave enough room for the light to to mount in the same location.
I spooled the rope on and attached the hardware and its all done. Here are a few pictures if the finished install.

 

[bruja blanca]

Nice. We'd like to add a similar winch set up to our stock bumper and keep it low visibility.