[landtoy80]

If this wheel bearing preload methods is not in the FAQ then lets make one.
If they are, too bad, I just stared a new post on it

I found robbies wheel bearing method.
"This was how we did big trucks in the 80's. We would do the bearing preload rotate then tighten again, rotate. Then we would back off to the point that the nut was loose. Hand tighten, then check to see how much the washer would move back and forth with a screw driver. IF no movement then loosen, if real easy movement not tight enough. this was a trail and error until you got good at it. when it was just right you put the lock washer on then the lock nut and tighten to what ever the man spec's were. then check to see if you could move the washer with some force, not two handed force but some more force then it took with just the jam nut. Sound hazzy but works real well. I have been using this method for over 20 years (yea I am old, but big enough to wipp most) and it is what I use in the shop today. It takes a feel and it may take a couple of times doing it but will serve well. The way you would tell if it is too loose(before driving the truck) is with the tire and wheel on, with every thing on the ground and you shake the tire(from the top) back and forth and you have looseness, the bearing preload is not enough, do it over or you will have problems.
Junk you may want to put this in the FAQ section. later robbie"

Landtank had a method.
I couldn't find it in a hurry

[Gumby]

I think Landtank's method was the same as mine.

Tighten the inner nut to 45 lbs/ft, rotate, back off and repeat, then just until you feel resistance. Install the lock washer, then torque the outer nut to 45 lbs/ft.

I use a torque wrench for Cruisers because you need to use the socket. It's easy to get carried away with a 1/2 ratchet.

With cars and trailers I use a pair of channel locks. I've found that I get better feel for the pre-load torque.

The rear bearings do require the special alien landing ship tool.

[Cruiserdrew]

I have lots of Land Cruiser wheelbearings in my life, and last year adopted Landtank's method of wheelbearing preload. I still do the initial tighten to 45 ft pounds and then back off and torque the inner nut to 10 ft-pounds. Then add the lock washer and torque the outer nut to 45 ft-pounds. Then I check the resistance with the fancy wheelbearing fish scale. If the turning force is above 8 and below 12, I bend the tabs. Curiously, the resistance seems to always come out right, and agrees with my seat of the pants method as well. I really like the reproducability.

So, my reccomendation is to use the LT method. If it loosens over time, I would look for a worn spindle.

Landtank

[Imagery]

Or just do like my friend did today when he was helping go back together with the birf rebuild. We followed the FSM (43 spin left/right-back off hand tight-48), Then add tabed lock washerand outside lock nut, tighten to 47. Then he just turned the hub and said "yea, that feels like about a 12lb Bass". We then bent one tab back on the adjust nut and another bent forward onto the lock nut. I onle had two tabs line up with flats on the nuts.We will run it like that a couple of days and check to see if it still feels like about a 12lb Bass. Probably will be less, something closer to 8 lb most likely.

[Jacques Villeneuve]

I am pulling my front axles to replace the brass spindle bushings and if necessary, the inner grease seal if I find that the diff fluid has contaminated the birf moly grease.
I understand that it is easier to re-install the axles if the front diff is locked which means that all the diffs are locked. So I will lock all diffs then jack the truck up onto jack stands with all wheels off the floor.

A question: If the diffs are all locked, then the wheel bearing preload force used to test the if it is in range (6 to 12 lbs on a fish scale) will be affected by having the diffs all locked and having to turn all four wheels instead of just one. Yes/No/Maybe? If so, any idea of what preload to use?


Thanks in advance.

[Stereo11]

Its in the FAQ under advanced search type in "wheel bearing guru's. This is the Landtank method... Works for me


Tighten the inner nut to 10 ft lbs, rotate the hub several times back and forth.

Re torque to 10 ft lbs, rotate the hub several times back and forth

repeat above two steps until there is no need to re torque.

install tabbed locking washer

install outer nut and torque to 43 ft lbs

Bend tabs of locking washer over.

[alkaline747trio]

It's bearing pre-load, your hub isn't locked to the axle shaft yet.

[Jacques Villeneuve]

Originally Posted by alkaline747trio

It's bearing pre-load, your hub isn't locked to the axle shaft yet.

Of course!
Thanks!

[peepers]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

I have lots of Land Cruiser wheelbearings in my life, and last year adopted Landtank's method of wheelbearing preload. I still do the initial tighten to 45 ft pounds and then back off and torque the inner nut to 10 ft-pounds. Then add the lock washer and torque the outer nut to 45 ft-pounds. Then I check the resistance with the fancy wheelbearing fish scale. If the turning force is above 8 and below 12, I bend the tabs. Curiously, the resistance seems to always come out right, and agrees with my seat of the pants method as well. I really like the reproducability.

So, my reccomendation is to use the LT method. If it loosens over time, I would look for a worn spindle.

Landtank

this is exactly what i did today and it worked flawlessly. well maybe not exactly... i think it might have been to 48 lbs... not 45... cant remember. anyway, it worked. ditto

[pugwash]

Originally Posted by landtoy80

"This was how we did big trucks in the 80's. We would do the bearing preload rotate then tighten again, rotate. Then we would back off to the point that the nut was loose. Hand tighten, then check to see how much the washer would move back and forth with a screw driver. IF no movement then loosen, if real easy movement not tight enough. this was a trail and error until you got good at it. when it was just right you put the lock washer on then the lock nut and tighten to what ever the man spec's were. then check to see if you could move the washer with some force, not two handed force but some more force then it took with just the jam nut. Sound hazzy but works real well. I have been using this method for over 20 years (yea I am old, but big enough to wipp most) and it is what I use in the shop today. It takes a feel and it may take a couple of times doing it but will serve well. The way you would tell if it is too loose(before driving the truck) is with the tire and wheel on, with every thing on the ground and you shake the tire(from the top) back and forth and you have looseness, the bearing preload is not enough, do it over or you will have problems.
Junk you may want to put this in the FAQ section. later robbie"

I've always done them by hand like this- do em up really tight, spin the rotor a couple of times then tighten them again, spin and check for tightness- then back it off till the nut is just loose- half turn normally. Then given the rotor a really good hard yank at top and bottom. You want the very slightest amount of movement in the hub in me experience.

have found this more reliable than using a torque wrench

[landtank]

Originally Posted by pugwash

You want the very slightest amount of movement in the hub in me experience.

I personally don't want any movement in those bearings.

[elhombre]

Spin the wheel and tighten down the nut until you can't tighten it down any more. (don't use air tools or your big fat brother in-law with a breaker bar) Back off a full 1/4 turn. Lock it down with the lock nut and check with fish scale. 9 out of 10 times it works for me. When it doesn't work, it is usually a hair too tight.

[pugwash]

Originally Posted by landtank

I personally don't want any movement in those bearings.

if its too tight then the bearing is liable to sieze! the barest hint of movement is all you need- enough that you can only just feel it but definitely not see it.

[LandCruiserPhil]

Originally Posted by landtank

I personally don't want any movement in those bearings.

X2 in addition I mount the tire prior to setting the pre-load....

[sandcruiser]

interesting
unless I'm reading the FSM wrong, it says to adjust preload such that it is
Frictional force PLUS 6-12 lb
ie: somewhere around 12-18lb if your frictional force is 6lb, like mine was.

In the end, my preload is about 16lb of fishscale, which sounds high by the methods above, but just fine by the fsm. I"m not keen to readjust, but interested to hear from people about this... I'd rather readjust now (the locking hub is still off) instead of later!

[wildsmith]

Originally Posted by landtank

I personally don't want any movement in those bearings.

x3 and interesting. I used to do it by mounting the wheel and tightening the inner nut until no play could be felt with a 12 & 6 o'clock wobble then a tiniest bit more, no bearing issues. Then for a while I did it by the book, had regular loose bearing problems and worn thrust washers. Now I go to 45ft lbs, turn back and forth a few times, loosen and re-torque to 40ft lbs (yes, ft lbs!), fit lock washer and outer nut as before, zero bearing problems and the thrust washer is unmarked. The fish scale test is always in spec and the 40ft lbs feels about the same force as my old tighten till no wobble method took. The FSM might work for mall cruisers but doesn't hold up for the abuse my bearings are put through Next time I have a hub off I'll try the repeated 10ft lb method which I suspect will end up taking a similar force to undo as my 40ft lb method.

[cpg]

Originally Posted by sandcruiser

interesting
unless I'm reading the FSM wrong, it says to adjust preload such that it is
Frictional force PLUS 6-12 lb
ie: somewhere around 12-18lb if your frictional force is 6lb, like mine was.

In the end, my preload is about 16lb of fishscale, which sounds high by the methods above, but just fine by the fsm. I"m not keen to readjust, but interested to hear from people about this... I'd rather readjust now (the locking hub is still off) instead of later!

My 1996 manual does not say "frictional force plus" it says pre load (starting).
Pulling the scale slowly off the wheel stud initial movement should not be over 12 pounds is how I read it.

[wildsmith]

I should have mentioned - my nuts and thrust washer are completely cleaned of grease before I do this. Grease on the nut or washer face will have a big effect on how easily the nut turns and how tight 40ft lbs or whatever you're using is.