What would you guys consider the basic tune up for a EFI 22re?
Thanks
Thanks
22RE Tune Up (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jukelemon
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2ndGenToyotaFan
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The normal plugs cap rotor wires, plus adjust valves, check TPS.
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Do you guys adjust cold/hot/while running? I know what then FSM states but that is not always the ONLY way.
Thanks.
Thanks.
2ndGenToyotaFan
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I've heard quite a few guys say they set them cold at .007 and .011 inches. But never heard of anyone trying to adjust while running, not a 22RE anyway. Probably just make a big mess.
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- #5
Thanks. I know my truck could use an adjustment. 159k without an adjustment is a bit too long in my opinion.
You might take a peek down next to the timing chain and take a look at your tensioners, make sure they are in good shape, other than that it is a pretty basic tuneup.
2ndGenToyotaFan
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159k? Yeah it's a little ovedue..... It's not a hard job, just so you know. Takes me about a half hour now, but I've done it more than a few times. The trick is not to unhook all the vac lines, just the few you need to, to let the valve cover flop over so you can get in there. Also the heater hose at the rear of the valve cover is a little tricky to get past, a helper is a good idea there. And rtv your "half moon" rubber seals (front and rear) in so they don't go anywhere next time you take it off. Or the back one falls out and you don't know it and drive around for a few days wondering why your truck smells like oil... 
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- #8
"rtv"?
Thanks for the tips fellows.
Thanks for the tips fellows.
2ndGenToyotaFan
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I used rtv not to "seal" it, just to hold it in place. It's meant to go on dry, but is much nice when you know you won't bump it out.
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OK fellows, went to do the valves last night and could NOT get the damn cover off. Pretty simple job besides that i.e. clearing all of the emissions stuff.
Is there a OE place to pry? I hit then side with a rubber hammer and still nothing. It has to be pried.
As well, I cannot get the PCV valve out. It is for sure original but will not come out.
Any suggestions?
Is there a OE place to pry? I hit then side with a rubber hammer and still nothing. It has to be pried.
As well, I cannot get the PCV valve out. It is for sure original but will not come out.
Any suggestions?
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- #11
Nix the PCV valve issue. That was an issue with a cold engine i.e. popped right off after a long drive.
Still an issue with the valves
Still an issue with the valves
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- #12
Nix the valve cover issue. Just read that you must wrench off the valve cover retaining washers. Never thought to do that. Looks like once they are off, the cover should just pull up.
Damn it was one of those nights.
Thx
Damn it was one of those nights.
Thx
2ndGenToyotaFan
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Glad you got it all workin' for ya.
After you take it off and put in on a few times those washers loosen up a bit.....
I also used a very small amount of RTV in the seal channel for the valve cover. That rubber seal usually stays in place, but if it starts falling out it is a PITA to get the cover on while naking sure the seal is seated in the channel.
Dan
I also used a very small amount of RTV in the seal channel for the valve cover. That rubber seal usually stays in place, but if it starts falling out it is a PITA to get the cover on while naking sure the seal is seated in the channel.
Dan
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- #15
As opposed to going back and forth between this thread and the MPG thread I started, I am going to track the results in this thread i.e. uncover whether or not these changes have an impact on mpg. So, to start, I began with a bone stock 92 Toyota 4x4, 2.4L Std cab. 159k. Tranny replaced. No sensors had been changed, no valves (emissions) changed, no injectors cleaned. Good brakes (no drag) and new clutch (no slipping). New tires and new alignment. Engine condition is excellent i.e. runs well, idles well, appropriate power for displacement. Cap, rotor, wires and plugs have been changed (not Toyota) but do not know when. Will have a hard start when ran for a while and let sit for over 30 minutes but not over several hours. Coolant Temp Sensor is suspected and will be replaced.
With this set up, I was always getting 18-19 mpg on a drive to work that is 90% (or more) highway.
1st change-PCV and 02 sensor replacement. Valve adjustment (tonight)
New 02 sensor is on along with a new PCV valve. There is a significant difference in engine performance after the swap-notably a quicker/smoother rev. I will post mpg at the end of the week.
2nd change- Coolant Temp sensor, plugs, air filter, wires, cap, rotor.
3rd change- Injector cleaning i.e. removal, clean and reinstall.
Should be interesting to see the changes, if any.
With this set up, I was always getting 18-19 mpg on a drive to work that is 90% (or more) highway.
1st change-PCV and 02 sensor replacement. Valve adjustment (tonight)
New 02 sensor is on along with a new PCV valve. There is a significant difference in engine performance after the swap-notably a quicker/smoother rev. I will post mpg at the end of the week.
2nd change- Coolant Temp sensor, plugs, air filter, wires, cap, rotor.
3rd change- Injector cleaning i.e. removal, clean and reinstall.
Should be interesting to see the changes, if any.
2ndGenToyotaFan
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The only problem I see with mapping how all this efects MPG is you, yes YOU. As the engine power improves you may be swayed to use the skinny pedal a little more than normal, just letting you know what might happen.
As the engine power improves you may be swayed to use the skinny pedal a little more than normal, just letting you know what might happen.
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- #17
Yeah, good thought but I do not think that will be an issue. I shift all gears before hitting 3k rpm's. Always have and always will.
Valves are complete. They were WAY the hell off. The Intakes were down to around .006 " (guessing since I do not have that small of a gauge but I could not get any part of a .008 in the gap). Exhausts were at .010. My first go at it yileded too high of a valve clearance. I was gently seating the feeler gauge until the adjuster screw stopped then backed off a 1/4 turn. That was too much. Engine sounded like a very old and beaten sewing machine. As well, and I am still not sure why, the rear half doughnut seal did not seat and I threw oil in a big way. Second time around, I seated the adjuster screw on the gauge and backed off 1/8 of a turn. Perfect. Rear seal is fine as well. Engine sounds great although not that different than before.
I will fill up tomorrow morning and start the test.
Valves are complete. They were WAY the hell off. The Intakes were down to around .006 " (guessing since I do not have that small of a gauge but I could not get any part of a .008 in the gap). Exhausts were at .010. My first go at it yileded too high of a valve clearance. I was gently seating the feeler gauge until the adjuster screw stopped then backed off a 1/4 turn. That was too much. Engine sounded like a very old and beaten sewing machine. As well, and I am still not sure why, the rear half doughnut seal did not seat and I threw oil in a big way. Second time around, I seated the adjuster screw on the gauge and backed off 1/8 of a turn. Perfect. Rear seal is fine as well. Engine sounds great although not that different than before.
I will fill up tomorrow morning and start the test.
keep us posted on your success, I may follow in your footsteps, I did a vavle adjustment all new belts and hoses, Belts too tight now i need a h20 pump! I'll do that but was thinking of a timing chain too, 130k what do you all think? O2 sensor poss.
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- #19
I am still dripping a couple of spots of oil BUT I think it is from last night's first drive.
Should it either be a big or nothing in terms of seal/spill on those half moons....if that makes sense?
Thx
Should it either be a big or nothing in terms of seal/spill on those half moons....if that makes sense?
Thx
You might be able to get them in there so that they leak a little, but generally yes, if its not in right it'll dump on you, and if it is, It won't leak at all.
