rebuilding a 3.0 for economy/power?

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I searched, but could not find any info on rebuilding a 3.0 to gain power and economy...as anyone done so effectively? I know I could find and drop in a 3.4, but I was hoping to find another solution for the original 3.0.

Would shaving the heads help? Exhaust work? Cold Air Intake? Unichip? Oversize engine work? Different tires...245/75R16?

I am a relaxed driver by nature, (no heavy foot) and it is nice to have a little get and go when you "need it" to pass or merge, but I am thinking about better economy for a possible DD.

Thanks :beer:
 
Shaved heads will only get you a higher compression ratio, so you'd prolly have to go to mig-grade, and might screw up the timing.

Exhaust: IIRC, my old Downey cat said just getting rid of the cross-over pipe was 9hp. Using it with their exhaust, 13hp... IIRC.

Unichip: Yeah, right... $300. Right there.

Cold air... Any car/truck can benefit from them, but 4WD's take least kindly to it b/c of water and debris being inherently lower...

IIRC, a 3.4 is only .4L larger only in bore... And there is no stroker crank, and if there was it would NOT be cost effective...

Personally, I'd love to see a twin cam either from a Camry or the 3.4 heads on the de-bored 3.0L block...

But realistically, no addition in power nets you greater MPG at the pump. At least none that I know of.

"Power and displacement increases were also received for the V6 engine. The 3.0 liter 3VZ-FE unit was rated at 138 kilowatts (185 hp) and 264 newton metres (195 ft·lbf).[12]"

Toyota Camry - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


It's always ticked me off that Toyota put TWIN CAM's in the CARS, and SINGLE CAM's in the trucks...

They got some true geniuses over at Toyota...


Toyota VZ engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

"The 1992–1993 engine is rated at 185 hp (138 kW) at 5800 rpm and 189 ft·lbf (256 N·m) at 4600 rpm. 1994+ motors were rated at 200 hp (149 kW) at 5800 rpm and 204 ft·lbf (277 N·m) at 4600 rpm. There is no mechanical difference in the engine. Compression ratio is 9.6:1 for both versions. The power spread of the 3VZ-FE is wide, having 100% torque between 2500–4600 rpm, with power trailing off by 6000 rpm. Stock redline is 6600 rpm, and the ECU's fuel/ignition cut is 7200 rpm."

Toyota VZ engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


:bang:
 
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It's always ticked me off that Toyota put TWIN CAM's in the CARS, and SINGLE CAM's in the trucks...

They got some true geniuses over at Toyota...
...
:bang:

Tink,,, tink,, tink, is this thing on?:hillbilly:

The 3.4L in ~96 and newer is twin cam/4 valve per cylinder. I haven't done the swap, but buddies have and report much better power and mileage. I wouldn't mess with a dead 3.slo, they aren't terrible motors, but the saying "all of the mileage of a V8 and none of the power" applies. It would possibly cost slightly more to swap than to O/H, but will end up with a more powerful/efficient motor with with the bonus of OBD2.
 
5 speed or AT?

If AT;

"Why are vehicles with the Toyota A340H trans/t-case so gutless?
(Compared to their 5 speed counterparts with the same motor). Normally, an auto tranny both consumes power and mutiplies torque. In the case of the A340H, the power consumption is doubled by the addition of the hydraulic transfer case, which is essentially like having another automatic transmission inline. But the torque multiplication of the single torque converter isn't enough to compensate for the additional drag. A simple though exspensive solution is to replace the hydraulic chain driven transfer case with a gear driven one. Inchworm and Gearslug are some of the only vendors that make an adapter for this application. People who have performed this mod report increased mileage and performance, most likely due to the elimination of the additional drag of the hydraulic t-case. Note that the chain drive case has a 2.66 to 1 low range so going to a single stock gear drive case will lose some gear reduction."


"Bellhousing info-
Bellhousings for the 3VZE and 22RE can be swapped, but are specific to their respective torque converters. 22RE is about 2000rpm stall, 3VZE is 2800. There are six bolts attaching the torque converter to the flexplate. When installing a Toyota auto trans, note that one of these six bolts is different and has a small shoulder. Install this one first and it will align all the holes so you can fully tighten each one without having to turn over the motor twice."

A340 Transmission issues and FAQs - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board


Tech: Automatic Transmission swap & Marlin Crawler Install


Wonder if you could convert it to 3RZ? It's got the same hp as the 3VZ.
 
Tink,,, tink,, tink, is this thing on?:hillbilly:

The 3.4L in ~96 and newer is twin cam/4 valve per cylinder. I haven't done the swap, but buddies have and report much better power and mileage. I wouldn't mess with a dead 3.slo, they aren't terrible motors, but the saying "all of the mileage of a V8 and none of the power" applies. It would possibly cost slightly more to swap than to O/H, but will end up with a more powerful/efficient motor with with the bonus of OBD2.



Yeah, I know about the 3.4... And I ASSURE you, you let me drive one and in no way will it ever get "better mileage" :steer: Ricky Bobby!!! :D


And by better, it can't possibly be by much.
 
I got a DIY ($120ish?) CAI intake on my my 200k + 3.0 and gained good power and better mileage

next is getting rid of the crossover, "hiflow"cat and better muffler with 2.25 -2.50 exhaust these things have way small exhaust stock...

edit: and 265/75 16s
 
I swear I think I read somewhere that the 3VZ had a anti backfire(?) thing where it would shoot a little gas into the opposite cylinder, say like if 6 fired it'd shoot gas in #1. 5 would be 2... And so on. But for the life of me I can't find it.



Anyway... You want MPG? You can forget it with the V6. And if you even contemplate an engine swap put me down for the 150hp, 177 ft/lbs 2.7L I4 3RZ.
 
When I did the head gaskets on my old '91 V6 pickup, I had the heads mildly opened up and port-matched to a set of Downey headers, along with installing the Downey crossover pipe and a 2.25" cat-back system. That, along with the Downey intake, made it feel pretty decent power-wise. Definitely an improvement over stock. Still got about 15-17 mpg on 31's too.
 
I swear I think I read somewhere that the 3VZ had a anti backfire(?) thing where it would shoot a little gas into the opposite cylinder, say like if 6 fired it'd shoot gas in #1. 5 would be 2... And so on. But for the life of me I can't find it.

The injectors are fired in 2 sets of 3, so injecting individual cylinders is not an option.
 
Yeah, I know about the 3.4... And I ASSURE you, you let me drive one and in no way will it ever get "better mileage" :steer: Ricky Bobby!!! :D


And by better, it can't possibly be by much.

Lets just say your experience isn't the same as mine or those who have done the conversion. This rig is getting a 3.4 from a late T100, my guess is it will have the same result as the rest. Will make more power, be easier to work on, be more reliable so require less work and get better mileage.:hillbilly:

There has been no coin spared on the 3.slo that is in it, port work, headers, etc. But my guess is the 3.4 will smoke it.
Aug252007PayetteDraw145.webp
 
...
Anyway... You want MPG? You can forget it with the V6. And if you even contemplate an engine swap put me down for the 150hp, 177 ft/lbs 2.7L I4 3RZ.

Good choice, but all that I have seen were 22R swaps. IIRC the mounts are different, so that and few other differences make the V6 to V6 swap easier. The 3.slo and 3.4 blocks are very close to the same, so parts like oil pans, mounts, etc, direct swap making life somewhat easier.
 
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