I have a 1984 toy truck, I was running a 350 .60 over sbc last year and the front end held togather. Now going with a 400sbc. The motor builder says 600hp. How long will the front end hold up? Will longfields hold up? Will the rear hold up to?
How long will they last (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cruisers4wdtoy
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2ndGenToyotaFan
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Forever so long as you don't ever use the gas pedal... It's a loaded question. At the very least I'd pull the diffs and make sure they are set up nice and tight. If you've lost carrier bearing preload, then the ring is going to deflect and it's going to go "pop-crunch" when you step on it. They are tough differentials, but they were designed for 1/6th that power... The fact that they are even usable in that application is admirable.
Need alot more info than that.
What is the truck set up like, what are you using it for....Why would you need the front end? Are you actually trying to wheel with 600hp? Are you mudding?
Downey
SILVER Star
Hopefully your ring gears are still the stock 4.11's. They are soooo much stronger than lower ratios, and with your H.P. you don't need lower gears. The real culprit will be "punching the gas pedal". I believe you've built a rig that will have to be babbied, i.e. slow gradual starts/accellerations!!!!
- Thread starter
- #5
It was set up for mud run comp. The 350 I had in it last year had about 400-450 hp. It held togather good last year. Both axles are lincoln locked. The gears are the stock 4.11. The engine man said that I will need a least 5000 stall in it. So I will not be able to ease the pedal to take off. Really dont want to go dana 60s.
what size tires?
Tires are what's gonna kill you...
And Jim's somewhat right. You don't, or shouldn't have Toyota transmission gear ratios anymore. So you don't have to lower gears b/c you've got a tranny and POWA that can handle that ratio.
600hp and a stock Toyota solid axle? Never heard of it...
At least go V6 chunk, Longfields and the strongest axle shaft you can buy...
But I swear, if I was doing all that I'd drop a Dana in there and forget all that... The sky's the limit with a 60 or 70...
Or if you've got the money, Volvo or Unimog axles...
And Jim's somewhat right. You don't, or shouldn't have Toyota transmission gear ratios anymore. So you don't have to lower gears b/c you've got a tranny and POWA that can handle that ratio.
600hp and a stock Toyota solid axle? Never heard of it...
At least go V6 chunk, Longfields and the strongest axle shaft you can buy...
But I swear, if I was doing all that I'd drop a Dana in there and forget all that... The sky's the limit with a 60 or 70...
Or if you've got the money, Volvo or Unimog axles...
- Thread starter
- #8
I ran last year 35s, 38s with cut ground Hawgs in the back and I have a set of skinny tractors that I run on the back with the 38s on the front. Have a new set of 42s now that havent been run on this truck. All tire are Swamper TSLs. Looking like Longs or Dirty 30s
What's a Dirty 30? And are you running in mud?
You can get away with a lot in mud... But once the surface gets harder you won't be getting away with anything...
You can get away with a lot in mud... But once the surface gets harder you won't be getting away with anything...
Longfields are the strongest toyota axle you can buy, the kit is inners and outers.
I say run it, $650 in longfields is a smaller investment than 1 tons. Dont buy the Dirtys.
Yeah he is running mud, and yes you can get away with alot more in mud than in the rocks.
There are alot of variables, there is no doubt you are pushing the hell out those axles, and you WILL have failures. But it wont be in the longfields and that is your only real investment. The rest of the axle is just junkyard parts and can be replaced for cheap. if nothing else it will be an interesting test, and you will have more ground clearance than your 1 ton competion, and thats the name of the game in mud.
Copy that! 1tons with a heck of a lot more ground clearance... Clarence...
And fronts don't get the same power as rear...
I'd definitely use a V6 chunk up front OP... Reverse rotation/ High Pinion are even stronger and will help your drive shaft angle cause of the big meats... But I don't know how they'd hold up with WOT + 38's and up situations. Should be fine.
And just for contrast on the pinon getting smaller conversation. And I'll warn whoever wants to know again. I do not see anywhere in that thread which diff he's using. The argument Zuk makes depends on which axle he uses. It depends on which one you use as to if the pinion will get smaller the lower you go in ratio.
ARE 571 GEARS REALLY THAT WEAK?
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I thought a dirty 30 was a 30 pack of cheap beer
- Thread starter
- #13
It looks like the Longs are way to go now. I am running the 4cyl. diffs. now. Will have to check out the V6 diffs.for the front. I do have one diff. set up with 571s and was going to set up one more for a match maybe just see how the 411 work.
5.71's and $600 horses....I wanna see the aftermath. It'l look like gear teeth soup!
Go with the stock ratio, as more wheel speed will work better in the mud, and youll definately have the power to push through.
Go with the stock ratio, as more wheel speed will work better in the mud, and youll definately have the power to push through.
While the 5.71's weakness is a MYTH!
I say stick with stock v6 3rd members, for the following...
-You dont need lower gears with that setup.
-aftermarket gears right now all seem to be kinda s***ty, since the china invasion.
-Your R&P will be the weak link and when you break them you can just throw another one in an hour for $100 from the junk yard. Rather than new gears, and having to set them up
-Odds are a 100k mile+ toyota setup is still better than what 99% of the garage setup guys can do.
-you will explode the 4cyl 3rds. I went through 3 in one year. the v6's are mucho beefier!
-more wheel speed
-BTW mud is gay Ahhh i feel better now...
I say stick with stock v6 3rd members, for the following...
-You dont need lower gears with that setup.
-aftermarket gears right now all seem to be kinda s***ty, since the china invasion.
-Your R&P will be the weak link and when you break them you can just throw another one in an hour for $100 from the junk yard. Rather than new gears, and having to set them up
-Odds are a 100k mile+ toyota setup is still better than what 99% of the garage setup guys can do.
-you will explode the 4cyl 3rds. I went through 3 in one year. the v6's are mucho beefier!
-more wheel speed
-BTW mud is gay Ahhh i feel better now...
I only posted that so cruisers4wdtoy would see that if he dropped ANY ratio, with a V6 diff the pinion would not get smaller.
I wasn't saying put only 5:71's in if you need to... Although with 38's and up it would be cool...
Will solid pinion spacer make this diff "stronger"? Or at least the pinion?
Could enough torque on the pinion crush sleeve cause any deflection?
Could enough torque on the pinion crush sleeve cause any deflection?
my undersanding is yes. The crush is obviously weaker and can over time cause a loss of bearing preload, and cause the backlash to go to out.
Im sure there is alot of info about it on ZUK's website.
Im sure there is alot of info about it on ZUK's website.
Sweet... Ok, so here's where we're at as far as building the baddest Toyota axle...
Use a quality R&P.
Turbo or V6 chunk. A high pinon (Fj80 front) would be even stronger.
Longfield shafts and joints.
Solid pinon spacer.
am I missing anything else?
And BTW, I WOULD NOT let a TRD diff anywhere NEAR here... An ARB on the other hand won't break.
Use a quality R&P.
Turbo or V6 chunk. A high pinon (Fj80 front) would be even stronger.
Longfield shafts and joints.
Solid pinon spacer.
am I missing anything else?
And BTW, I WOULD NOT let a TRD diff anywhere NEAR here... An ARB on the other hand won't break.
- Thread starter
- #20
Thanks Guys. You are the best for info. Going to use all the info. here to try to make the toy front hold for me. The Longs will be on there way. Will have to look for some v6 thirds.
