Ring and Pinion set up?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Threads
59
Messages
538
Location
Harrisonburg, VA
I'm replacing the pinion bearings in an 89 SR5. Anybody done a write up on how to set the lash correctly?
 
mini truck???

There are lots of instructions on how to set up a diff.

Have you ever done it before?

Do you have the necessary tools?
 
89 4x4, i've never done it before but have watched many times. I have tools, i just can't remember exactly where i want too see the teeth marks in the paint on the ring gear. I didn't remove the ring gear and I left the adjustment tabs in the same place all ive done is replace the bearings on the pinion and crush ring. I was hoping i could replace the bearing and check where the teeth are touching and maybe adjust the pinion side to side and be ok, maybe i'm wrong.

A friend barrowed the truck, the pinion seal went out, he tried to be nice and replace it, but he drew the flange nut down with an impact instead of a torque wrench and crushed the crush ring too far. One of the bearing was wining.
 
Last edited:
That's an awsome write up, that'l be printed and added to the archives.
:beer: thanks a lot.
 
The linked write up is specific for FJ40s and early (pre crush sleeve) FJ60s. The pinion depth and preload are set differently on later FJ60s and mini trucks.
 
a note .

check the toe ( tooth pathern ) before remove the R&P and compare it when you re asemble all again .. keep all the chims on the pinion neck or the bearing racer.
 
common sense goes a long way. I set up my first R&P when I was twenty two, no experience, 15 years later pulled it. It looked perfect, now the next guy has run it ten years, no complaints.
I've done 30 or forty since, no issues, just follow the basics and you'll be OK
 
I don't think it's that easy .. much more with used gears ..

It isn't hard. I just did my first set a few months back. The only thing that I would have had an issue with would be a decent bearing puller for the pinion bearing if I had needed to change the pinion depth. I didn't, so it was easy. Now I feel stupid for spending so much money over the years paying people to do what I could have done myself. Oh well!
 
this is something i want to learn to do and this thread has got me going. one of my first questions is about using a crush sleeve.
you can only crush a sleeve once so how to you make sure you don't over crush?
what do you use to crush the sleeve, doesn't require lots of foot lbs? is a standard impact gun enough?

devo
 
Officially, you only crush a sleeve once. You make sure you don't over crush by using a torque wrench. You start the crush with a nice 3/4" drive breaker bar, and long cheater bar attached. The Dana stuff I know takes over 600 ft lbs to start the crush. After starting the crush, that's when you switch to the torque wrench. No, a standard impact would not cut it.
 
Officially, you only crush a sleeve once. You make sure you don't over crush by using a torque wrench. You start the crush with a nice 3/4" drive breaker bar, and long cheater bar attached. The Dana stuff I know takes over 600 ft lbs to start the crush. After starting the crush, that's when you switch to the torque wrench. No, a standard impact would not cut it.

It's weird how much they vary. The Land Cruiser OEM crush sleeves are stout. The last two I had set up required a visit to the press to get them started. Others you can blow right through with an impact gun.
 
By the FSM the pinion nut must go from 185 to 325 IIRC .. but if you are re-using the crush sleeve that much amount of torque should be necesary ..?
 
Reusing a crush sleeve is not a good idea..
If you really want something reuseable, get a lathe out and copy the crush sleeve with a solid spacer.

All the crush sleeve does is set pinion preload. once it has been set once, it is very difficult to get it set at the same preload that it was before.
 
I suppose .. there is a adjusting poing not defined to tight the pinion nut with used crushsleeve ( un controlable variable thought .. ) like 80 .. ?

I have a new crushsleeve at home .. I would test this weekend how much it contract at 180- 200 - 225 - 250 pounds .. just to have a reference ..
 
Once it is crushed, it is an exact distance that defines where the bearing sits. If you retorque a crush sleeve, you can easily reduce that distance and add unnecessary preload..
 
But if you have a wide range of torque to be aplied in the crsuh sleeve .. how this torque afect the distance .. more torque less distance between bearings no ?

How much it goes from 180 to the 325 max number of torque ( that's lot's of toque apliet to the pinion nut )
 
It isn't hard. I just did my first set a few months back. The only thing that I would have had an issue with would be a decent bearing puller for the pinion bearing if I had needed to change the pinion depth. I didn't, so it was easy. Now I feel stupid for spending so much money over the years paying people to do what I could have done myself. Oh well!



Well if you were working on a Land Cruiser 9.5" ring gear you would not need a special puller to remove a bearing from the pinion, as the depth is set by a shim under the race in the case, not between the pinion and the inner pinion bearing as on an 8" Toyota differential....
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom