FJnews rock slider build w/ PICS!

[QuackAxel]

had been planning to build a few things for a while and finally got around to gettin some steel and getting started.

i plan on building some rear tube fenders, rock sliders, front tube fenders, and a skid plate.

i started with the rock sliders... as everything else other than the skid plate will tie into these.

i got started taking pictures a little late but will try to do better along the way.

heres what there goin on 1972 forty SUA, 4" lift springs w/ shackle reversal, 350 SBC, 700r4, 3 speed t/case.

I used 1 1/2" square tubing for the legs and 3x2" rectangle tubing for the main rub rail.

the pieces in the middle are the scab plates and the supports for the scap plates.

angled the ends so they dont catch on rocks and such

whata ya got MUD? im still learnin.

scab plates on

next i boxed in the ends.

supports welded to the top of the scab plates

heres the pair done for now....

proably be a week or two before i can post up a finished product.... i broke my tubing bender and had to order a part.
ruined some tubing in the process.

the final product will have outriggers on the outside like other sliders im sure youve seen.

well couldnt fab on the sliders anymore so i whipped up some roof rack mounts.

thats all for now. will keep ya posted!

 

[mtweller]

Those are definitely the beef! Looks like on the close up weld, you have good penetration on the vertical piece, but didn't come "low" enough with your puddle onto the horizontal piece. I'm no pro, by any means, just thought I'd offer my .02 on what I see there.

Keep up the good work!

R

 

[Fast Eddy]

Faq man. What do those weigh? I want sliders, but with a 2f I don't want to haul around half the steel that was ever produced in Pittsburgh.

 

[QuackAxel]

i bet so far they weigh in around 20lbs each....?? i dont know. maybe more. by the time there finished probably around 30lbs. i thought about the whole weight thing for about 2 seconds. but with a SBC there's really no point in thinking any further so i went with strength.

you could defiantly keep em lighter if you just used say 1 1/5" .083 or even 2".

if your lookin for light ones white knuckle makes a beefy but light pair that look as good or better than any sliders iv ever seen for a 40. there kind of the ones i mocked my from.

linky!>>> Toyota FJ40/BJ40 Rock Sliders

 

[NOR CAL CRUISER]

Please someone correct me if i am wrong, But i noticed that all of your welds are contious. I'm still learning, but i swear someone told me that your welds are stronger if you space your welds apart a little.
I"m not trying to degrade what you'r doing, just wondering if my thoughts are correct or am i getting bad info.

Thanks for the post and the pics, i'm still trying to plan my owne slider design. i'm thinking something like yours except in the shape of the original running board only longer so it goes back to where the rear fender flare would start (if you have them).

and,Ben

 

[QuackAxel]

Well a new die for my bender is more than I paid for the whole bender so I went another route. I went on a wheelin trip this past weekend with some buddies and my friends 60 had sliders that look kinda like this.

I cut and welded in the outriggers for the step to come

 

[QuackAxel]

Another side pic

 

[QuackAxel]

Step is in place. I used 1/4 inch strap for this . Super sturdy!! I thought I would have to weld in some supports but it's strong with our em. Oh yea for the outriggers I used 1 1/2" .083 wall tubing.


Today I'm gona sand them, clean them, prime them, and paint em!! I got some spray on bed liner that I'm gona use for the final coat. I'll paint everything other than the scab plates. Then I'll weld em to the Frame sometime next week.

 

[QuackAxel]

This is them finished up!

I cleaned em with carb cleaner then sanded em with a fine 400 grit. Followed a coat of primer. I finished up with 2 coats of spray on bed liner. They turned out really good!!! I'm stoked

This is it for now. My forty is in the shop right now so when I get it back I'll get them mounted up and snap some pics of the finished product.

 

[FJ62sasquatch]

any pics of the final product on your 40?

 

[lcwizard]

Please someone correct me if i am wrong, But i noticed that all of your welds are contious. I'm still learning, but i swear someone told me that your welds are stronger if you space your welds apart a little.
I"m not trying to degrade what you'r doing, just wondering if my thoughts are correct or am i getting bad info.

and,Ben

If you mean a series of short welds, then no. However, on thin materials you can control deformation easier if you don't run a continuous bead. In most applications a two inch bead followed by a gap then another bead and so forth is more than adequate
A continuous bead on this project also helps keep moisture out of the tubes resulting in it rusting from the inside out. Most weld projects just involve
common sense. The more load a structure sees the less gap you'll want between welds. Where two pieces meet stresses are transferred between the parts at the weld. The less weld you have the less points you have to transfer the stress.

 

[platypusREX]

Are you sure you didn't cheap out and not use enough metal.

 

[allan man]

Damn!!