Tires/Suspension (1 Viewer)

[JBHorne]

DTT and Chimyz:

I'm ordering the skid plates through the group buy that's going on, and will order the slee sliders shortly as well. As far as suspension work, I called RadFlo today and will most likely be installing front remote reservoir coil-overs (2" dia.) and rear shocks to give a 2" body lift. Adding TotalChaos UCA's as well, of course.

With 35" tires, that gives another 2" radius over the 31" stocks. Therefore, I should gain about a 4" lift bringing the clarence from 9" to 13".

Curious though, why you both went with 33" over 35", when the LC should support a larger tire? I'm sure you guys both have good reasons.

I like the BFG T/A's (either the KO or KM2) on 17" TRD rims.

Any suggestions that either of you have learned through this process?

 

[chimyz]

My reasons:

Need to pick up customers and don't want a total mud rig
Better gas mileage
No need to change the gearing (although I don't know if 35s would make that much of a difference)
Weight


With the changes, I don't see why 35s wouldn't fit. It may rub a bit though, at least on articulation.

 

[JBHorne]

My reasons:

Need to pick up customers and don't want a total mud rig
Better gas mileage
No need to change the gearing (although I don't know if 35s would make that much of a difference)
Weight


With the changes, I don't see why 35s wouldn't fit. It may rub a bit though, at least on articulation.

Good points. Also the TRD rims are only 8" wide so fitting a 35" wouldn't work on them.

How do you like the TRDs? How do you like your BFGs? I'm looking at either the T/A KO or the T/A KM2, but I'm leaning towards the KO's do to purpose. I don't want a dedicated rock crawler and am afraid the KM2's will be way to noisy as well as handling characteristics on the highway. I love that sidewall traction though! I really wonder what the difference in noise/comfort/handling/speed would be...

KO All-Terrain On/Off-road

KM2 MudTerain Off-Road

Where did you order your TotalChaos Arms from? I had no idea such a simple part was $715!
TOTAL CHAOS Uni-Ball Upper Control Land Cruiser 2008+

 

[dtt255]

Same reasons as above

If I had to do it all over again, I would have done the 17 TRD Rims.....I love the black. But after spending over $1000 for the Nitto's I wont be getting new rims until the tires need to be replaced.

I actually have looked into getting my 18's powder coated black BUT I would have no truck for 2-3 days while they did the coating Not only that, I wouldneed to find storage for the truck on blocks!! Ouch....

 

[chimyz]

I'm super happy with the ATs. I wouldn't get the KM2s as they wouldn't work in the snow too well.

The other point I forgot to mention was the spare tire. I wanted to keep the spare under the back, and I wasn't sure if a 35" tire would fit.

Good point about the 35s on 8" rims, it would fit, but probably not safe, and they would expand to more like 36 1/2" wheels.

DTT - I have 5 steel Tundra wheels (same size as stock) that I was going to powder coat, but got the TRD rims instead. If you are interested, I can almost give them to you. I paid next to nothing...let me know.

 

[JBHorne]

1) Did you sell your factory rims and tires? Mine are like new since the vehicle is less than a month old. What are they worth and to whom?
I would like to try and recoup costs (no reason to have them lying around taking up space either).

2) What are you using for a spare tire/wheel? Same BFG on TRD? That's $$$ for a spare. Any cheaper steel 17" rim and simpler 33" tire?

3) Did the 33" fit under the car in the spare well?

4) Overall, how much ground clearance have you gained? 2" lift + 3" larger diameter tire (1.5" radius) = 3.5" lift. Correct?

 

[chimyz]

1) I've got a tiny warehouse in the back of my offices...spare cars, welders, parts, etc. The wheels still live there.

2) I bought 5 TRD rims and 5 BFG ATs. When I rotate, I rotate the spare in. It was a higher initial cost, but I will have the setup longer because 5 tires are rotated, instead of 4.

3)33" fits under the rig. There is about 1" to play with, and a 35" could potentially be jerry rigged to fit under there.

4)I haven't measured the ground clearance, too busy driving. I figure you are right about adding 3.5" of lift.

 

[JBHorne]

1) I've got a tiny warehouse in the back of my offices...spare cars, welders, parts, etc. The wheels still live there.

2) I bought 5 TRD rims and 5 BFG ATs. When I rotate, I rotate the spare in. It was a higher initial cost, but I will have the setup longer because 5 tires are rotated, instead of 4.

3)33" fits under the rig. There is about 1" to play with, and a 35" could potentially be jerry rigged to fit under there.

4)I haven't measured the ground clearance, too busy driving. I figure you are right about adding 3.5" of lift.

Very valid point. Theoretically you should gain 20% by rotating 5 instead of 4. Here however I tend to replace tires do to dry-rot long before the tread is worn out, which sucks. So the gain really doesn't exist for me. Tires still in the heat, even under the car, so it's still being "used".

Since you would be running the same setup as me, if you wouldn't mind sometime could you measure the distance from the ground to the bottom of the sidestep? I'd like to compare! Thanks!

 

[JBHorne]

Did you guys recalibrate your speedometer? Does it need a new gear, or is it all electronic and can be done by the dealer?

 

[dtt255]

Did you guys recalibrate your speedometer? Does it need a new gear, or is it all electronic and can be done by the dealer?

No calibration here...... what do you mean a new gear?? Just for changing tires? I am confused

 

[JBHorne]

No calibration here...... what do you mean a new gear?? Just for changing tires? I am confused

When you went from a 265/60R18 to a 285/70R17 you went from a 30.5" (661 revs/mile) diameter tire to a 32.7" (617 revs/mile).

That means that you are 7.2% too slow. That means that when your speedometer says you are traveling at 60mph, you are actually traveling at 64.3mph

I believe on newer trucks they can just recalibrate it using a scantool, but on older trucks, there was actually a gear that did it. So for example, a stock gear would have 30 teeth/in, whereas a "slower" gear would have 34 teeth/in to compensate.

This also effects your MPG reading, crusing range, as well as odometer readings.

 

[dtt255]

When you went from a 265/60R18 to a 285/70R17 you went from a 30.5" (661 revs/mile) diameter tire to a 32.7" (617 revs/mile).

That means that you are 7.2% too slow. That means that when your speedometer says you are traveling at 60mph, you are actually traveling at 64.3mph

I believe on newer trucks they can just recalibrate it using a scantool, but on older trucks, there was actually a gear that did it. So for example, a stock gear would have 30 teeth/in, whereas a "slower" gear would have 34 teeth/in to compensate.

This also effects your MPG reading, crusing range, as well as odometer readings.

Interesting I will have to get this checked out....

 

[phatairman]

You always need to get 5 tires if you are upgrading to a larger size. What are you going to do when you have a flat if the spare is the stock size?

 

[JBHorne]

You always need to get 5 tires if you are upgrading to a larger size. What are you going to do when you have a flat if the spare is the stock size?

Wobble home

...but I don't have to buy a $400 rim for the spare...but I think I am going to so I can do a full 5 rotation.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Those wheel wells are smaller on the 200. Before fitting 315's I'd see if Slee has measured this or done it yet. From what I've observed, it looks like you'll need to bump-stop the crap out of the suspension w'35's which is not good if you want to run trails. If you want to cruise around town and drive fire roads...wouldn't matter.

I HOPE this is not the case. I would be sure though before you invest. The last thing you want is a "wheel lifter" (if you want to run trails).

 

[JBHorne]

Those wheel wells are smaller on the 200. Before fitting 315's I'd see if Slee has measured this or done it yet. From what I've observed, it looks like you'll need to bump-stop the crap out of the suspension w'35's which is not good if you want to run trails. If you want to cruise around town and drive fire roads...wouldn't matter.

I HOPE this is not the case. I would be sure though before you invest. The last thing you want is a "wheel lifter" (if you want to run trails).

going from 31 --> 35 would also require different gear ratios (not "require", but you will notice the change). 31 --> 33 is less noticeable. Also, 35 requires a 8.5" wide rim (at 17"), which are not as sexy as the 17"x8" TRD's.

You only gain 1" more ground clearance with 33 --> 35 anyways, so I'm only going to go up to 33"

Now...37's......that's a whole 'nother story!!!! I'M IN LOVE

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

going from 31 --> 35 would also require different gear ratios (not "require", but you will notice the change). 31 --> 33 is less noticeable. Also, 35 requires a 8.5" wide rim (at 17"), which are not as sexy as the 17"x8" TRD's.

You only gain 1" more ground clearance with 33 --> 35 anyways, so I'm only going to go up to 33"

Now...37's......that's a whole 'nother story!!!! I'M IN LOVE

You gain more than "an inch" with 35's. You gain:

an inch out in ALL directions:

down (clearance)
in front (rocks and ledges)
in rear (rocks and ledges)

The difference is very notable on trails.

And yes I've seen that truck. I'm sure they bump-stopped the suspension to the max.

 

[spressomon]

You gain more than "an inch" with 35's. You gain:

an inch out in ALL directions:

down (clearance)
in front (rocks and ledges)
in rear (rocks and ledges)

The difference is very notable on trails.

Sheesh! You and I actually agree on something John!

 

[JBHorne]

You gain more than "an inch" with 35's. You gain:

an inch out in ALL directions:

down (clearance)
in front (rocks and ledges)
in rear (rocks and ledges)

The difference is very notable on trails.

And yes I've seen that truck. I'm sure they bump-stopped the suspension to the max.

Yeah, but would you rather have some suspension travel with 33's or maxed-out with 35's? I would think it would take a lot of suspension work to get good travel with 35's, but really what do I know.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

I would think it would take a lot of suspension work to get good travel with 35's, but really what do I know.

We all really are dying to know. I remain optimistic as I know almost anything can be done. We'll see.