Yakima-OEM cross bar report (1 Viewer)

Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
565
Location
Reno, NV
 
 
I tested a couple of different ways to mount my Yakima cross bars on the hundy, to reduce noise. At first, I had the factory bars behind the Yakima bars, and the wind howl was extreme above 40 mph, like a wind tunnel. I moved the Yakima bars behind the factory bars (see pic), and the wind noise was almost eliminated, noise levels returned to near stock levels, even at 75 mph. I will also test removing the factory bars altogether at some point and report back again, but I suspect that will be noisier than the current configuration - I think the factory bars split the air flow in front of the Yakimas.

Also, I thought that I would get a big fuel economy hit due to the cross bars and surf board, so I checked this on my trip to San Diego last week. I topped my 285 BFGs to 38 psi, and drove the speed limit all the way to SD, typically around 65 mph (gage; around 68 actual). To my surprise, I was able to pull off 16.6 mpg, including a tire size correction of 5%.

One last note, I used the Yakima Ripcords (new product, pictured) and they work really well. Steel reinforced, I would guess that one could take my boards if they had bolt cutters, but otherwise very secure. This is a very versatile product, not cheap, but I think you do get what you pay for on this one.

:cheers:

 
Joined
Dec 30, 2006
Messages
1,346
Location
Smithfield, VA
 
 
Interesting... My first Yakima bar is as far forward as possible (where your factory bar is in the pic above)... My rear Yakima bar sits just behind the factory bar... After initially deciding where to put them i've never gone back to move them... Noise never bothered me but i'd love to up my MPG's!
 
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
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3,618
Location
Charleston, SC
 
 
Why not just install the fairing?
To those of you with the Yakima bars and fairing can you hear any wind noise and do you see any mpg effects?
 

inkpot

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 30, 2003
Messages
13,662
Location
All over Arizona
 
 
 
Howdy! Any particular reason ya can't just toss the Yakima bars? Use the factory ones to hold that board. Reduce the number of bars by 50%. If your just absolutely in love with the Yakimas, then toss the factory bars. I don't see a need for double bars front and rear. John
 
Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
565
Location
Reno, NV
 
 
Any particular reason ya can't just toss the Yakima bars?
I thought about that - I have a lot of attachments for the Yak bars that won't work with the factory bars. Also, the Yak bars are HD steel, versus thin wall aluminum, so they probably increase the overall weight rating a bit. I won't eliminate the factory bars now that I know how much noise reduction they give - big difference ;)
 
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Messages
3,618
Location
Charleston, SC
 
 
I thought about that - I have a lot of attachments for the Yak bars that won't work with the factory bars. Also, the Yak bars are HD steel, versus thin wall aluminum, so they probably increase the overall weight rating a bit. I won't eliminate the factory bars now that I know how much noise reduction they give - big difference ;)
But you really don't know until you eliminate the factory bars. Your speculating.
 
Joined
Jan 18, 2008
Messages
2,321
Location
Boise, ID
 
 
I have the Yak bars with the faring up front (back would be a bit ridiculous, huh?) - Noise... from my tires, but not from my bars. :)
 
Joined
Aug 20, 2004
Messages
1,083
Location
vail
 
 
I love my Yak bars. I don't keep them on all the time, but they are great if I need to carry sheets of plywood or my Yakima box. I've tried a few different places on the rack and moving the factory cross bars but I can't stand the noise. Those look like a newer version mounts than the ones I have. It takes me about 5 minutes to mount and dismount the bars, those look faster.
 
Joined
Jul 26, 2006
Messages
772
Location
Mark - Knoxville, TN
 
FYI,

I've had yakima racks since the 80's and currently have yak bars on 3 of my 4 vehicles. The round bars are inherently noisy. The old school way to quiet them is to wrap bars with cord or bungie cord. This eliminates noise as well as a fairing. A lot of factory antenna designs incorporate the same wrap. For $2 you can virtually eliminate the noise with a 4' 1/4" bungie cord.

Also, the factory cross bars are rather weak. I hate the flex!
 
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
167
Location
Cumming, GA
I have a pair of Thule bars (and want a 3rd). I was looking at adding a fairing, but similar to above - I just twisted about 6' of black paracord over my front crossbar like a barber pole and the sound has stopped almost entirely. BTW - I took my OE crossbars off. If it serves no purpose - it's off the truck.
 
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
2,399
Location
Atlanta, GA
 
 
Does Yakima make mounts/feet that bolt directly into where the OE rails mount? I looked on their site but they listed like 10 different mounts that were "compatible" with an 02 Cruiser.

For me, that would be the ultimate setup as it would allow for the absolute lowest profile, and multiple configurations (kayaks, bikes, MegaWarrior, etc.). Mounting directly to the OE rack bolt holes would address leak sealing issues and would also look clean with all of the OE rails/crossmembers removed.
 
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
167
Location
Cumming, GA
Does Yakima make mounts/feet that bolt directly into where the OE rails mount? I looked on their site but they listed like 10 different mounts that were "compatible" with an 02 Cruiser.

For me, that would be the ultimate setup as it would allow for the absolute lowest profile, and multiple configurations (kayaks, bikes, MegaWarrior, etc.). Mounting directly to the OE rack bolt holes would address leak sealing issues and would also look clean with all of the OE rails/crossmembers removed.
I can't find the damn thread, but somewhere in the bowels of IH8M - there's a thread about it. I believe he used "control towers" w a little drilling of the bolt spacing to fit.

More info:Yakima › Shop › Rack Systems › Permanent Installation

I'd like to ditch the OE rails as well.
 
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
2,399
Location
Atlanta, GA
 
 
I can't find the damn thread, but somewhere in the bowels of IH8M - there's a thread about it. I believe he used "control towers" w a little drilling of the bolt spacing to fit.

More info:Yakima › Shop › Rack Systems › Permanent Installation

I'd like to ditch the OE rails as well.
I went to R.E.I. (outdoors store) today and took measurements and pictures of all the Yakima Landing Pads I could find. I also got some pics of my truck rails and mounting locations with the dust covers off. Nothing came close to fitting the standard OE bolt pattern. I was thinking that a bracket would have to be fabricated to interface between the Yakima and the LC. I guess drilling the Yak mount might also work. I need to find that thread....
 
Joined
Apr 28, 2010
Messages
2,399
Location
Atlanta, GA
 
 
mount the tracks to where the OE rails mounted, then you can slide the landing pads around depending on need.
Will the brackets fit inside the factory "channel" so that they don't scratch up the roof? Also, do I need to buy extra long bolts to reach the mounting holes or are the ones provided long enough?
 

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