WS ATF Flush Procedure (5 Viewers)

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my 2003 LC is not sealed.
 
I did my 2005 tundra with 87k this weekend
fluid was red wine color with noticeable sediment and a tiny amount of metal shavings
get vehicle up to operating temp
drain and fill, drive around neighborhood 10 minutes
drain and over fill a little bit, drive around again for 10 minutes
drain excess out of the check hole with fluid at operating temp
2.5 quarts each time roughly

I wish I had the extra fluid to go another round...I'll do it again in 50k miles

the penzoil transfer pump at walmart is a bargain and much better than the older pump they used to sell
 
my 2003 LC is not sealed.

I'm doing my 2003 this weekend. I realize it's of the dipstick variety but I'll report back to you guys and I may video for my channel… Also, I decided to go for it with full Synthetic this time - using the Mag 1 synthetic ATF. Clay
 
I'm doing my 2003 this weekend. I realize it's of the dipstick variety but I'll report back to you guys and I may video for my channel… Also, I decided to go for it with full Synthetic this time - using the Mag 1 synthetic ATF. Clay

Did you replace the ATF? Need to change the ATF on a 2003 LX470. Only doing drain and fill.
 
I did. Went well. The Mag 1 full syn has done real well in our '03 LC. I was able to remove the return line on the trans cooling circuit right in front of the radiator, point that hose down to a catch bucket, run the engine (helper did that) slowly shifting through the gears (Drive-Rev-1-2-3-Drive, etc) and allow about 2 quarts to come out. Then stop engine, add two new quarts via dipstick fill tube. Repeat until I replaced the capacity of the trans. Reconnect that line, check level of fluid normal way at warmed up idle. BTW, I did all this while it was at normal operating temp.


...via IH8MUD app
 
If you're just dumping the fluid from the pan drain count on dropping approx. 3.75 quarts, if you put the front wheels on ramps you get a slightly better drain angle and will dump very very close to 4 q. I've been doing 5k mile 4 q drain/refills for five or six iterations now. I just check ATF fluid level is correct, be it hot or cold, and replace the exact amount drained with a new washer. Recheck level when hot at idle. Good to go. '03 OEM fluid is T-IV (4).
 
Yes, what Paddo says is a good way to change the fluid over a period of time, which is nice to the system, but if you change from conventional oil to full synthetic, you need to make the change all at once as I described. Others may disagree, but this is my take on it. Like I said, was easy and worked well. My 03 is happy. ;)
 
I was able to remove the return line on the trans cooling circuit right in front of the radiator, point that hose down to a catch bucket, run the engine (helper did that) slowly shifting through the gears (Drive-Rev-1-2-3-Drive, etc) and allow about 2 quarts to come out.

Does this mean you still have old fluid in both of your transmission oil coolers?
 
Thanks to @agaisin for the writeup.

I need some advice working on an 06 LX470 following this procedure had a few odd things happen.

Truck is on flat ground and I verified this with a level on the drain pan

1. On my initial drain I removed the overflow plug first and had ~2.5qts come out, tranny was warm but I did not verify it was up to temp - was my tranny overfilled?

2. I ended up only using 12 qts of new fluid before it came out clean I was expecting more

3. I put back in exactly the amount of fluid that came out +0.5qts. After a warm up and a drive I parked and verified the truck was level, removed the overflow plug and got about ~3qts out.

So was my tranny just overfilled to begin with and by putting in the same amount I again overfilled it? Is there anything I am missing or should check again I don't want to be short on fluid.

Thanks for any help - really want to be sure everything is correct before I bolt my skids up again
 
Does this mean you still have old fluid in both of your transmission oil coolers?
Nope, I kept repeating what I said (2 quarts at a time) until all the fluid running out was clean. It took all the oil I bought (the capacity of the whole system) to get to that point meaning I flushed everything out that was old. I basically was running the trans pan almost empty each time. If you only do two quarts at a time (measured in my catch bucket), then you won't let the pick up tube in the pan suck air. Hope this helps. Clay
 
Thanks to @agaisin for the writeup.

I need some advice working on an 06 LX470 following this procedure had a few odd things happen.

Truck is on flat ground and I verified this with a level on the drain pan

1. On my initial drain I removed the overflow plug first and had ~2.5qts come out, tranny was warm but I did not verify it was up to temp - was my tranny overfilled?

2. I ended up only using 12 qts of new fluid before it came out clean I was expecting more

3. I put back in exactly the amount of fluid that came out +0.5qts. After a warm up and a drive I parked and verified the truck was level, removed the overflow plug and got about ~3qts out.

So was my tranny just overfilled to begin with and by putting in the same amount I again overfilled it? Is there anything I am missing or should check again I don't want to be short on fluid.

Thanks for any help - really want to be sure everything is correct before I bolt my skids up again


I'm not sure, someone above said they did an '05 and at the end about that same amount came out of the overflow and he seemed to think that was okay and normal. Mine is an '03, still has the dip stick, etc, so I can check the fluid level with the stick while idleing in park. Sorry not much help on the newer models with no dip stick.... someone else will reply.
 
Nope, I kept repeating what I said (2 quarts at a time) until all the fluid running out was clean. It took all the oil I bought (the capacity of the whole system) to get to that point meaning I flushed everything out that was old. I basically was running the trans pan almost empty each time. If you only do two quarts at a time (measured in my catch bucket), then you won't let the pick up tube in the pan suck air. Hope this helps. Clay

No doubt the fluid running out at the end was clean. With the return hose to the cooler disconnected, which means no new fluid flows into the cooler, I don't see how the fluid between the cooler and transmission is replaced. Can you please clarify?
 
No doubt the fluid running out at the end was clean. With the return hose to the cooler disconnected, which means no new fluid flows into the cooler, I don't see how the fluid between the cooler and transmission is replaced. Can you please clarify?
I may have left some fluid in the there, but if you disconnect the hose that is coming out of the trans cooler, the trans oil pump is pushing fluid through there as well when it's running thus displacing most if not all that oil too. I think the only place that could have had a little old oil was the line that went back to the trans from there. But it may have also sucked that little bit back into the trans through the whole process.
 
Also, these are the same hoses the dealers disconnect to do the flush when they do it.
 
Just completed a drain and fill while working on AHC today and only dropped about 2.5 qts, will do a couple more in the next week. My question is regarding the verification of fluid temp I found this following process instead of jumping the pins on OB2 connector, is this the same for our rigs?

3. FLUID TEMPERATURE CHECK

NOTICE:

The ATF temperature can be confirmed by using the Techstream.

(a) Turn the ignition switch off.

(b) Connect the Techstream to the DLC3.

(c) Turn the ignition switch to ON.

(d) Enter the following menus: Powertrain / ECT / Data List / A/T Oil Temperature 1.

(e) Check the ATF temperature.

Link to TSB regarding proper temps
http://freepdfhosting.com/32301e6b32.pdf
 
Last edited:
Toyota revised it. Temp check is now 97-115.

The difference between performing the check at 97 and 115 is approximately 6oz based on my experience.
 

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