Wristy's 1980 Meatmobile build up

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

while were on the subject, can anyone tell me why a vertical shackle is so popular? :confused:

I see them on EVERY Aussie rig I've ever looked at. Truly a W.T.F.

I cant figure out why this would be intentionally, seems as though its in the most prominent off road country's or areas. Do they know something I dont?......Like how and where to achieve useless flex?

The Man-a-Fre catalog is full of pics of them.


.another case in point

because an extended shackle is a really easy way to gain a couple of inches of lift
mine are near vertical, the ride might be better if they weren't, but now I can clear a larger tire and get better highway speed with lower RPM, and I think I spent under a hundred bucks
:meh:
 
I always thot it was normal. I never paid much attention to it. I can totally understand why mine are like that now, new springs, never driven, never loaded down. they are stock length. I made sure they werent too short.

now that it seems abnormal, im gonna be checking them all out :doh:

I wouldn't worry about it until you have it all back together, and get some miles on it, if they are new springs, they'll probably settle some, and if you compensate now, they could end up maxed out against the frame by the time they fully settle.
 
since ya'll are on the subject of shackles. i have been thinking about putting inch and a half ball joint spacers on my truck and im wondering if i can use a longer shackle in the rear to level the truck out with the front. im am prety sure the shackle that i have right now is stock. O, also, how much longer will i have to make the shackle to get an inch and a half of height out of the truck?
 
just to make sure, what is the length of the stock shackle on the rear of a 1994 ext pickup?
 
since ya'll are on the subject of shackles. i have been thinking about putting inch and a half ball joint spacers on my truck and im wondering if i can use a longer shackle in the rear to level the truck out with the front. im am prety sure the shackle that i have right now is stock. O, also, how much longer will i have to make the shackle to get an inch and a half of height out of the truck?

As far as I know, a rear shackle lift should be fine, perhaps a bit stiffer of a ride. I'm pretty sure you will need approximately 3" longer shackles for an approximate 1.5" lift.
 
rear half of frame is all done. i made a new wire harness, too.
then make a cool skull stencil, and made skull camo. what do you think??

skullcamo002.jpg
 
Skull camo is badass but what really got me was the big ass Misfits Fiend skull on the tailgate. I have been trying to figure out what to do with my bed and bumper and I think I found it! As long as you dont mind me mooching off your ideas. I have a bunch of rust above my wheel wells so I was thinking about tubbing them to accomidate bigger wheels but Im still trying to figure out the lift/ wheel size I wanna go with. Props again bro! Will be looking foreward to progess. Oh ya, I dont think I will cover the bed welds either...looks tough like a scar.
 
Anti Honda League? Is that a personal affront? :D The skull camo is badass! :cheers:


Anti Honda league goes way back.
I made those stickers. I distributed them all over town.
I was gonna have em say Anti Tuner Leauge. But 2 T's just didnt fit.
(you know anTi Tuner ) I really have a problem with tuners. punk kids drive it like they stole it. you know. hondas, themselves are good cars.
Its ironic, actually. my truck is surrounded by hondas. its all i work on.

And thanks, Jerod. I'm glad you like the skull camo.
 
Skull camo is badass but what really got me was the big ass Misfits Fiend skull on the tailgate. I have been trying to figure out what to do with my bed and bumper and I think I found it! As long as you dont mind me mooching off your ideas. I have a bunch of rust above my wheel wells so I was thinking about tubbing them to accomidate bigger wheels but Im still trying to figure out the lift/ wheel size I wanna go with. Props again bro! Will be looking foreward to progess. Oh ya, I dont think I will cover the bed welds either...looks tough like a scar.

Thanks!

its actually called the crimson ghost, not fiend. the fiend is the club name. the misfits jacked the face from a old 1940's Serial at the drive in. A villian who sought to destroy the city with a doomsday device.
I dont mind you copying. just know the facts, and give wristy credit. :D I have never seen anyone with the same trucks as me, as far as paint goes. I have been stopped many times. One guy came to where I was working, and really wanted it done to his truck.
So, i brought my stencil the next day, and painted him a black crimson ghost on his tailgate.
all mine are white. My skid plate on my 89 is got the ghost too.
Paint what you want, man. And i have been getting a lot of excellent feedback on this, people wanting to do the exact same. I may just start making a few extra stencils, and turnin a buck.
 
As far as the shackle angles go, mine sit like that. Partly because my rear springs are bought new and are still stiff and riding high. Also cuz I wanted em that way. When my rear springs are compressed enough to just hit the overload leaf, my shackles are at 45 deg. I seem to notice the shackle angle more often on expedition type setups or trucks that are planning on carrying more load more often. They ride high when there's no load but they're ready for it when needed. Only problem really is limited droop for fear of inverting the shackles upon compression.

Sweet skull camo, sadly I fear the wife and neighbours view me as too old and responsible to be driving my DD around with skulls plastered on it, but 5-10 years ago, I would have been out there now making my own stencil!

Nice job on the bob
 
got the cab back on

i had to do it differently than before, as the come along is junk

hooked my 4Runner up to a strap, then to a cable, around a pulley, and to a strap around my cab.

redneck engineering at its finest :hillbilly:

donkeys018.jpg


donkeys020.jpg


donkeys021.jpg


donkeys023.jpg


donkeys024.jpg


donkeys025.jpg


donkeys027.jpg
 
Jerod, could you please change the name of this thread to
Wristy's 1980 Meatmobile build up

thanks
oh, i'd PM it too you but its full, and i dont wanna delete stuff
 
I also sealed up by welding a plate, every single hole in the frame except two in the rear, i put plugs in there. and of course i did not weld up the round holes for the cross member above the rear tire. that hole there can come in handy if you break a birf on the trail. you put your axle in it and then persuade the birf ;)
 
Done, Meathead.... :D Does this mean there's more to come?

Cool thanks

Yeah, theres much more.

bumper in front
new paint- well finishing the skull camo in front
a quick section on my custom wiring setup to make the new 22RE work with other accessories not found on either truck stock
winch
exhaust info on how a glass pack works
other stuff
:D
 
I am contemplating doing some hood art on there. like on my 4Runner. but instead of skull and cross bones, i want a big fat juicy steak. painted right over the skull camo. either a rib eye, or porterhouse.
:grinpimp:
 
22RE to carb'd truck wire info

I have swapped in my 89 22RE into my 80 truck, formerly with a 20R

Since I am using a separate circuit for an external inline pump, i am able to eliminate the factory circuit opening relay.

Here is a diagram I made using the info here, and the info from my FSM. the colors i have written does not apply to anything you will come across. I used the stock fuse block and made note of stuff, for future reference. The injectors, igniter and O2 are essentially all tied in with the ignition. a separate wire to each of those parts is not nessicary.

the fuse amperage values on the side is for me only too, you can do the same, but again, its for my specific truck using the stock 80 fuse block.

on the alternator, you see values listed as 1/3 2/3 3/3 and 1/1
its how the FSM referes to a wire in a plug. all of these colors and values are of significance to you when doing the swap. since this was built off a 89, the alternator is internally regulated. you should use these wire colors to help you along the way.

The swap was quite simple really. I did make hard on myself cause i built a new body harness too.

198020Rto22REcustomdiagram.jpg
 
Back
Top Bottom