Wiring repair tips: EGR Burned 80

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Kernal said:
Looks like you should have a bit more space between the two.

Is the harness (black plastic section) still bolted to the firewall or has it drooped down?

Either way you could also put a heat sleeve (split velcro style) over the EGR tube for more protection.
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It is still bolted there and has not drooped down.

I like the idea of putting a heat sleeve around the EGR.
 
pmccumber said:
See I want that level of clearance. That looks great. You must have removed the old harness wrapping to keep it that thin.
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Remove old wrapping
Inspect wires

Through lots of my own personal experience and mud reading I prefer to:
*By once cry once
*Do it once do it right
*Plan jobs to hit all available access for parts and pm.

I'm still working on the third one a little bit... My axle regear, locker, refresh was a good example for me.... I planned it out, and did all of it's from bare metal. .
 
Just wanted to report my experience. I had blown my fusible link, and immediately blew new ones. used a temporary circuit breaker to track down the problem.. long story short, after going through all effing fuses and relays, under dash wiring, ignition switch, ect - it ended up being the #5 cyl injector harness wiring shorting out. We repaired it, fixed another questionable spot by #6, insulated and heat wrapped it, and bam, no more fuse/breaker blowing, and fired right up.

The next benefit.. the engine ran much smoother, at least 2 mpg improvement, and no more engine vibration over 3500rpm. it revs to 5k smoothly.. I had been driving like this for some time and since all ran reasonably well and never any hesitation, I just accepted it as it was.. now I realize #5 probably hasn't been firing since I bought it 2 years ago. WTF..

Just wanted to say thank you to this thread for helping me out.
 
Brav said:
Just wanted to report my experience. I had blown my fusible link, and immediately blew new ones. used a temporary circuit breaker to track down the problem.. long story short, after going through all effing fuses and relays, under dash wiring, ignition switch, ect - it ended up being the #5 cyl injector harness wiring shorting out. We repaired it, fixed another questionable spot by #6, insulated and heat wrapped it, and bam, no more fuse/breaker blowing, and fired right up.

The next benefit.. the engine ran much smoother, at least 2 mpg improvement, and no more engine vibration over 3500rpm. it revs to 5k smoothly.. I had been driving like this for some time and since all ran reasonably well and never any hesitation, I just accepted it as it was.. now I realize #5 probably hasn't been firing since I bought it 2 years ago. WTF..

Just wanted to say thank you to this thread for helping me out.
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Awesome find and fix!
 
I just recently became aware of this issue and need to perform a temporary fix until I have time to address it properly. One thing I'm curious of is would there be any lesser benefit to just wrapping the EGR pipe instead of the wiring harness (the advantage being that the EGR is readily accessible whereas the wiring harness is less so). A split sleeve or something like this Balkamp BK 7353955 Exhaust Heat Shield seems plausible. Any thoughts?
 
Kernal said:
Brav: was the injector wire shorting out inside the harness bundle that's located near the EGR pipe like the others, got photos??
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yes. I had no cable tie holding it away from it.
 
eikelben said:
I just recently became aware of this issue and need to perform a temporary fix until I have time to address it properly. One thing I'm curious of is would there be any lesser benefit to just wrapping the EGR pipe instead of the wiring harness (the advantage being that the EGR is readily accessible whereas the wiring harness is less so). A split sleeve or something like this Balkamp BK 7353955 Exhaust Heat Shield seems plausible. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Why not do both?
 
Bump. My 96 LX450 started doing the wonky misfiring talked about many times on this forum (intermittently) a while ago. Started out just blowing a fusible link every year or two, then over last month or so it would happen when stomping on the accelerator from a dead stop (I could make it go away by feathering the petal momentarily), but as of yesterday it became permanent and finally threw a PO305 code. Here we go….
 
SeanPaul said:
Bump. My 96 LX450 started doing the wonky misfiring talked about many times on this forum (intermittently) a while ago. Started out just blowing a fusible link every year or two, then over last month or so it would happen when stomping on the accelerator from a dead stop (I could make it go away by feathering the petal momentarily), but as of yesterday it became permanent and finally threw a PO305 code. Here we go….
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Is the harness still available from Toyota? How about the factory clips?
 
Here's one clamp that can be used for the main engine harness:

FZJ80 engine harness black plastic firewall clamp.webp
 
sjpitts said:
The 95-97 main engine wiring harness is still available. The earlier ones are not.

I am not sure about the factory clips-- but check out this thread where they examined the whole thing.

FAQ - 1995-1997 1FZ-FE FZJ80 OBD2 Main Engine Wiring Harness Connector Information - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1995-1997-1fz-fe-fzj80-obd2-main-engine-wiring-harness-connector-information.978780/
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I highly recommend replacing the entire harness as they ALL are getting crispy. You'll notice an immediate improvement in overall engine operation, and the weird misfires/hiccups will disappear. Toyota is also wrapping the EGR section with heat proof taping as well. The price keeps going up so you might as well bend over now.
 
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