From memory, so you may double check against a haynes manual. these color wires should all be the same throughout the years, so dont sweat it if you can only find a pre 72 diagram.
*yellow with black = oil pressure sender(this will require installing the toyota sender to get the dash gauge working)
*yellow with green= coolant temp sender(also will require stock toyota sender to work)-you DONT need the bushing that downey and AA sell. there is a stock bushing in the F/2F head that holds the sender that will screw into 1/2" npt threaded hole in the chevy cylinder head(most, although some later ones are 3/8")
*black with white = stater soleniod(if you cant tell the stripe color anymore, check with a voltmeter or easier is a test light. should only! have power when the key is placed into the momentary start position. You Dont want it to have power when the key is in ignition or acc. position.)
*black with yellow = ignition coil(should be 12v when the key is in the ignition position, not acc.)
Hook the white 10 gauge wire to the alternator battery "+" post
Assuming you have the typical 12si internally regulated GM alternator:
Get a gm alternator plug from kragen.
put a ring terminal on the red wire. hook that to the "+" battery connection on the alternator
connect the white wire to ignition hot switched 12v. (if you jumper two wires where the voltage regulator was at one point, you can get 12v switched at the original alternator plug. Hook this to the alternator plug white wire. you may need a radio shack sourced diode to prevent run on(I did when I fixed the hacked wiring in the FJ45 I had. solder in so the current flows to the alternator. that means the stripe on the diode goes to the alternator, and the black body towards the wiring harness.
and I have NO experience in V8 conversions.
