Window switches - Gremlins (1 Viewer)

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I have a slight electrical gremlin, need help. The belt molding and window seals on the driver side of my gx470 were shot, and since some recent hard rains, my driver window switch and memory switch haven’t worked. Symptoms there being that only the driver window switch works (yes, even after resetting the other three windows), and the auto-tilt memory function on the steering wheel doesn’t work. After a heavy rain a while back, functionality in both switches came back after a few days of drying out. Alas, it rained again and I wasn’t lucky twice. The switches haven’t functioned for months now.

Belt molding and door seals are now replaced, and today I went to install new switches. To my dismay, I still have the same issues. Fuses are all good. Any suggestions?

Sorry for the long story, thanks ahead of time for any help.
 
I have a slight electrical gremlin, need help. The belt molding and window seals on the driver side of my gx470 were shot, and since some recent hard rains, my driver window switch and memory switch haven’t worked. Symptoms there being that only the driver window switch works (yes, even after resetting the other three windows), and the auto-tilt memory function on the steering wheel doesn’t work. After a heavy rain a while back, functionality in both switches came back after a few days of drying out. Alas, it rained again and I wasn’t lucky twice. The switches haven’t functioned for months now.

Belt molding and door seals are now replaced, and today I went to install new switches. To my dismay, I still have the same issues. Fuses are all good. Any suggestions?

Sorry for the long story, thanks ahead of time for any help.

If your driver window switch is able to operate the driver window, that means power/grounds are OK to the switch and the door opener. To open the other windows from the driver seat, a multiplexed signal goes from the driver door switch to the body ECU over to the switch of the other door and opens the window. The driver seat memory buttons are very 3 simple switches that ground the pin to the body ECU. These two systems are not related, other than both communicating with the body ECU. It looks that the 2 systems don't share any connectors inside the door either.

The easiest method to diagnose this is to use a scanner (or Techstream) and look at the body switch inputs and see which ones are changing when pushed. After this I would probably start with the 3 memory buttons as this is such a simple system that can be diagnosed with a volt meter, unlike the multiplexed (BEAN) signals.

There are signals from both systems that run through connector IC1 in the driver footwell area. Any chance that are got wet as well?

Screenshot 2024-02-07 140458.png
 
If your driver window switch is able to operate the driver window, that means power/grounds are OK to the switch and the door opener. To open the other windows from the driver seat, a multiplexed signal goes from the driver door switch to the body ECU over to the switch of the other door and opens the window. The driver seat memory buttons are very 3 simple switches that ground the pin to the body ECU. These two systems are not related, other than both communicating with the body ECU. It looks that the 2 systems don't share any connectors inside the door either.

The easiest method to diagnose this is to use a scanner (or Techstream) and look at the body switch inputs and see which ones are changing when pushed. After this I would probably start with the 3 memory buttons as this is such a simple system that can be diagnosed with a volt meter, unlike the multiplexed (BEAN) signals.

There are signals from both systems that run through connector IC1 in the driver footwell area. Any chance that are got wet as well?

View attachment 3552650
Thanks for the reply! Yes, there is a very good chance that connector got wet. I’ll take a look this week.

Otherwise, this is just another excuse to buy techstream.
 

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