Anyone know if using an industrial winch is any different from a recovery winch? I found a deal on an industrial winch just curious if that works or no? A feel like a winch is a winch is a winch but i could be totally wrong.
Winch Option industrial vs recovery...need a quick answer (1 Viewer)
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Markuson
SILVER Star
Can you be more specific? Model or a link?
- Thread starter
- #3
Warn series 15 vs say a m15000
online i found the series 15 is a 3.8hp motor vs the 4.6 on the m15000
but this winch is much overkill in my opinion so i feel it might be alright anyway
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
In the past, industrial winches did one of two things. Either be slow, but built stronger to be used daily, think flatbed tow truck that is winching vehicles on and off the tray 15 times a day, everyday. Or a lighter load, fast winch (like aero-medivac winches that only need to lift up to 3 people and some gear, but do so at a very fast pace)
But between those winches, industrial has a faster line speed, but it is also drawing about a 100 more amps, being industrial, its built for a larger medium-duty power plants most likely with dual generators. The recreational, has a slower line speed, and would be more designed to run the power available from a light-duty power plant, like the one we have.
But between those winches, industrial has a faster line speed, but it is also drawing about a 100 more amps, being industrial, its built for a larger medium-duty power plants most likely with dual generators. The recreational, has a slower line speed, and would be more designed to run the power available from a light-duty power plant, like the one we have.
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- #6
Thank you! I see what you mean, on the tech sheets for them there is about an 85amp difference between them at the same load rating.
there also may be differences in waterproofing and less concern about weight in the industrial version.... 15K should allow you to stretch it into a limo......I thought I was overkill at 12k
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- #8
While were on the subject...what amp draw should we be comfortable with?
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- #9
It is overkill but it's a year old and only $500. It's $1800 new. My thought was to put a synthetic line on it to help keep weight down. It seems to weigh exactly the same as a m15000
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Without going into the requirements of every system I can find in the tech manual, which gives plenty of buffer for either of those winches.
For real world. I always try to snatch block when I winch, but sometimes it's not in the cards. Pulling at 500 amps in my 200, it almost cuts all lighting by about 50%, both interior dash lights and especially low beams. That doesn't bother me as, when I hooked up a multimeter while under that load (I know, iffy right!) I was still delivering 11.4 volts to the truck. So you are good regularless of either winch.
do your home work on synthetic winch lines - lots of boat rope floating around in the market place.
Agree on the line...... spend the money to get quality from a Mud vendor.
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- #13
Good to know. I was looking at masterpull just because I know that name but I'm all for supporting the forum. I'll cruise thru the vendor list or I'm open to recommendations.
Southeast overland is close by perhaps - and a vendor, and they did a really nice job on my extra long cable on my old 80....
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Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I've ran a amsteel blue rope for 8 years, the drum rusted on it and it's done easily over 200 pulls. Still survives my yearly load tests. So I'm pretty happy with that rope.
That said, don't spend money on someone else "making" a line for you.
I recommend watching a 3 minute YouTube video on how to do a long bury splice and get a 1/4" brass electrical cable eyelet. Match you favorite thimble (don't waste money on a factor 55 prolink) and you have Masterpull qualify for $200 less.
That said, don't spend money on someone else "making" a line for you.
I recommend watching a 3 minute YouTube video on how to do a long bury splice and get a 1/4" brass electrical cable eyelet. Match you favorite thimble (don't waste money on a factor 55 prolink) and you have Masterpull qualify for $200 less.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Hey Taco, what winch are you running? I have to decide soon, assuming my vaporware TJM T13 actually arrives... Been looking at the M12000 and Zeon 12S P. I know a snatch block gets you big power without such a heavy, but wondering what you're doing there.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I'm running a 12 year old warn 9.5xp. I've blown the motor once (rock buggy going up pinion hill st super lift off-road park, long time ago where I was learning, I overloaded it) I switched to Amsteel synthetic as I talked about earlier. About a year ago on I rebuilt it a 6th time and switch the solenoid control pack to the newer contacter control pack. I crushed the thimble and spliced in a Factor 55 "splicer". I also had the drum rust out and that need to be replaced.
I mention all that not to show off, but to emphasize that a premium and good winch can work for you indefinitely, but it will still require maintenance or replacement parts.
I like the Zeon winch lineup, better water resistance features than I'll ever have, and the electronics can still be repaired by the end user. I personally don't see the the extra cost gets you much more, but if you can get a good price, do it. With the 200, and 12,000 winches, just make sure that it fits without cutting too many brackets in there. I know on the ARB and additional support bracket needs to be removed to fit it in there.
That said, most hidden mount winch bumpers like ARB and TJM require the whole bumper to be removed to get the winch out to service it. That gets old quick. On at least my ARB with just the 9.5xp, I can get it out without removing the whole bumper, big plug for when you submerge them.
Past that, just a public service announment. If you drive in enough heavy rain or mud, with a synthetic line, it's rope, so water gets trapped in the rope and on the drum, and rust will happen as it's too tight of winding to dry out. Just need to pull it out and let it dry before storing it again.
And I would recommend a training class on proper winch techniques. I've seen a guy crush his hand in the roller fairlead, and a guy get his stomach sliced almost open from a steel cable.
I mention all that not to show off, but to emphasize that a premium and good winch can work for you indefinitely, but it will still require maintenance or replacement parts.
I like the Zeon winch lineup, better water resistance features than I'll ever have, and the electronics can still be repaired by the end user. I personally don't see the the extra cost gets you much more, but if you can get a good price, do it. With the 200, and 12,000 winches, just make sure that it fits without cutting too many brackets in there. I know on the ARB and additional support bracket needs to be removed to fit it in there.
That said, most hidden mount winch bumpers like ARB and TJM require the whole bumper to be removed to get the winch out to service it. That gets old quick. On at least my ARB with just the 9.5xp, I can get it out without removing the whole bumper, big plug for when you submerge them.
Past that, just a public service announment. If you drive in enough heavy rain or mud, with a synthetic line, it's rope, so water gets trapped in the rope and on the drum, and rust will happen as it's too tight of winding to dry out. Just need to pull it out and let it dry before storing it again.
And I would recommend a training class on proper winch techniques. I've seen a guy crush his hand in the roller fairlead, and a guy get his stomach sliced almost open from a steel cable.
Markuson
SILVER Star
It ain't showing off to share deep experience to answer a question...and you have a TON of experience I respect. 
Thanks, Taco. That's why I asked YOU.
I know the Zeon 12 fits. A little concerned about the wireless-only setup on the Platinum version. As a guy who often wheels alone, it's attractive to be able to control not only the line, but also the clutch from anywhere... They've been out since 2012, but I haven't found much info re wireless failures. A wireless clutch also means knuckleheads can't be jerks and pull your rope out when you're parked somewhere...
Thanks, Taco. That's why I asked YOU.I know the Zeon 12 fits. A little concerned about the wireless-only setup on the Platinum version. As a guy who often wheels alone, it's attractive to be able to control not only the line, but also the clutch from anywhere... They've been out since 2012, but I haven't found much info re wireless failures. A wireless clutch also means knuckleheads can't be jerks and pull your rope out when you're parked somewhere...
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Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Yea I switched to wireless with my control pack switch out. I still carry a wired controller and extra battery, but haven't needed it.It ain't showing off to share deep experience to answer a question...and you have a TON of experience I respect.
I know the Zeon 12 fits. A little concerned about the wireless-only setup on the Platinum version. As a guy who often wheels alone, it's attractive to be able to control not only the line, but also the clutch from anywhere... They've been out since 2012, but I haven't found much info re wireless failures. A wireless clutch also means knuckleheads can't be jerks and pull your rope out when you're parked somewhere...
Funny you mentioned the clutch. I used to have manual locking hubs on both front and rear axles. Had two friend constantly unlock one hub or pull my cable out... so one night I welded a big pipe to their frames and connected them together... it's almost as good as an electric clutch.
