Who has put a Toybox behind an H55? (1 Viewer)

RufusTheDufus

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I wasn't sure of I should post this in the 60 forum or the 40.

I've got a shiny new Toybox for the H55+splitcase that's going into my HJ45. I've spent the last few evenings searching and reading various message forums looking for info on this setup. I've been able to piece together a few things I need to be aware of but figured I'd ask the gurus here if they have installed a Toybox behind an H55 and what problems they ran into, if any. I'd like to learn all of the 'gotchas' that result in pulling the whole thing apart again (and again and again).

I was surprised that the unit arrived with no instructions at all. IMO, very strange for a product that's been shipping for a few years.

I'd like to snap a bunch of photos of the process and eventually do a step-by-step install document to help others in the future. So please feel free to contribute your $.02 if you have done this install.

Thanks.
 

crustyBJ60

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4.7 toybox install questions behind a h55f

toybox for h55f, will it fit late h41 with split case?

some good info there as well. log in and read...

i have not installed mine yet, it sits on the floor, mocking me and taking up valuable space. so many other things to do first.

first off an H55f and toybox will be waaaaay too long to fit the 47. you'll need to cut the tubular cross member and move the fuel tank (or modify it drastically). this set up works better in a 60 because of all the extra room you get in a 60 frame, and the fuel tank is in the back.

IIRC the H55f "just" fits in a 47, you may or may not have to mod/cut/move the tubular cross member, the trans cross member may need some attention as well.

good news is... your toybox will also fit a 19 spline H41 with the splitcase transfer:D

i did a re-think on the gearing, and to avoid the problems trying to fit a 5spd and the toybox, the 4spd and 3.73 gears seemed less work for about the same gain.

with that much gear reduction, it won't matter what ratio is in the diff. ( i assume that the toybox for the H55f is still only 4.7?)

not saying it can't be done, but how deep do you want to dig?

transfer case shifter will also be a problem, but orangefj45 has a sweet twin stick set up, and it fits very nicely on an H41/toybox/split case. would also work on the H55f and toybox.

not a one banana job, pretty much a custom install for each truck. that's my guess as to why there are no instructions. so roll up your sleeves, grab a beer and remember to take plenty of pics.

cheers
crusty
 

fjfodee

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I'd like to learn all of the 'gotchas' that result in pulling the whole thing apart again (and again and again).

One problem I'm having is separating the two piece adapter that mates the trans to the toybox. There are two small slits at the bottom of the adapter (for prying w/ a screwdriver) but this has proven to be of little help. Otherwise there's just not much to pry/tap on.
 
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I'm in the process of mating a Toybox to an h55f and I've posted a couple of threads in the 60 section that you'll probably find helpful. There are 4 steps that I found to be somewhat obscure:
1. Notch the tcase for the shift rail.
2. Cut the h55f output shaft.
3. Remove the h55f output bearing.
4. File the splines on the h55f output shaft. This one stumped me.

One thing about the h55f that you might want to consider is pulling off the 5th speed extension housing and running rtv over the gasket. Marlin Crawler and Mark A. (65swb45) both told me to do this.
 
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I'd like to learn all of the 'gotchas' that result in pulling the whole thing apart again (and again and again).

One problem I'm having is separating the two piece adapter that mates the trans to the toybox. There are two small slits at the bottom of the adapter (for prying w/ a screwdriver) but this has proven to be of little help. Otherwise there's just not much to pry/tap on.

The adapter is a single plate. I think what you're calling the 2nd piece should stay bolted to the Toybox. Call Marlin Crawler and asked if they have any ideas how to get them apart.
 
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Measure the OD of the output shaft of the tranny very carefully. Most of the time on a toybox you need to lightly sand a few thousands off to make sure the input gear slides on and off the output shaft. Otherwise you'll get the 2 stuck together and lock up the toybox.
 

Awl_TEQ

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Rufus, please do all the thinking for me and post up your progress :D

I have a toybox on the way for my 3BT, H55f, splitcase in my 78 45. My measurements say that the tube crossmember will clear, at least until I add the factory drum park brake to the splitcase. If I have to move it it's no biggie when you consider I'll be cutting away floor and lengthening the dog house also. Tranny crossmember mods are due as well to clear the front shaft.

I you're still working on this install when I get to it we can work through it together........awwwww :eek:

Kevin
 

fjfodee

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The adapter is a single plate. I think what you're calling the 2nd piece should stay bolted to the Toybox. Call Marlin Crawler and asked if they have any ideas how to get them apart.

Yes, one plate bolts to the back of the trans and the other bolts to the front of the Toybox. Then you mate the Toybox to the trans by bolting the two plates together. However, if you need to remove the Toybox from the trans you must seperate the adapter.

You can see in the pic that there are two slots at the bottom of the adapter on the trans. The problem is that there are dowel pins on the adapter thats on the Toybox (top corner/opposite lower corner) I did call Marlin and they said use a screwdriver to pry at the bottom of the adapter, but gives very little movement when there is a dowel pin in the top corner.

I'm mating to an H42, but I believe that the adapters are basically the same.


IMG_3827.jpg
IMG_3827.jpg
 
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Rufus,

It has been a long time brother.

I am getting ready to leave work but once I get home I will reply in detail as we have done this process about 12 times since the begining of the year, and there are a number of things to watch out for.

Cam
 
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Yes, one plate bolts to the back of the trans and the other bolts to the front of the Toybox. Then you mate the Toybox to the trans by bolting the two plates together. However, if you need to remove the Toybox from the trans you must seperate the adapter.

You can see in the pic that there are two slots at the bottom of the adapter on the trans. The problem is that there are dowel pins on the adapter thats on the Toybox (top corner/opposite lower corner) I did call Marlin and they said use a screwdriver to pry at the bottom of the adapter, but gives very little movement when there is a dowel pin in the top corner.

I'm mating to an H42, but I believe that the adapters are basically the same.

OK I remember . I used a brass drift to pound the dowel pins from the back (transmission side). Once the Toybox moves a little bit, slide pieces of 1/8" flat stock between the Toybox and the h55f, then screw in bolts from the back of the tranny so they push against the flat stock and force the two apart.
 

Awl_TEQ

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OK I remember . I used a brass drift to pound the dowel pins from the back (transmission side). Once the Toybox moves a little bit, slide pieces of 1/8" flat stock between the Toybox and the h55f, then screw in bolts from the back of the tranny so they push against the flat stock and force the two apart.


I remember reading that in a thread somewhere and thinking "what the hell has he done!":eek:
 
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Most of this upgrade is pretty straight forward.

The process between the the H42 and the H55 are the same if you are cutting the output shaft of the transmission. The H55 and the late model FJ-60 H42 does have one more step like someone already mentioned ( that is sealing the rear tail extension.)

First thing I would like to mention is the only way to do this job on the H55 is to cut the 19 spline output shaft.

If you are doing the FJ-40 or early FJ-60 with out the tail extension, you should use Marlin's 10 spline output shaft replacement. The reason being the 10 spline output shaft is retained with a C-clip and the 19 spline output shaft is only retained with a press fit bearing. With the 19 spline output shaft on the transmission it is required to use the Clamp Ring supplied with the crawl box.

Now back to the H-55

The only way to do the H-55 is to cut the shaft, as stated earlier.

First do a dry run on fitting the front adapter plate so you can measure and mark and cut the out put shaft of the transmission. Once you have the plate install and the 3 or 4 bolts holding the front adapter plate to the transmission measure 35 mm from the back of the adapter plate. That is where you are going to cut the shaft. ( We use a 4.5" cut off wheel and spin the transmission to cut the shaft)

Once you have done this you need to dis-assmeble the plate and hardware thorughly clean all affected areas focusing on the fith gear area. Now remove the last bearing on the output shaft, and the steel spacer sleeve. It is now time to install the Clamp Ring.

Installing the clamp ring
The clamping ring will slide most of the way on, but sometimes needs to be tapped the last 1/2 inch. Tighten this with a 3/16th's inch hex key wrench pritty much as tight as you can possibly tighten it.

Cleaning up the the end of the splines
As you cut the output shaft I recommend on the last part of the cut turning you cutoff wheel if you will side ways and chamfer the end of the splines. If you dont do this it will make it very difficult to slide the crawl box on the transmission. Once the splines are chamfered you need to file / buff the splines and all sharp edges. There can be no burrs left on the shaft as it might go on but will be very difficult to take off if ever neccessary.

Prepping the transmission
Clean the back of the trans so it is clean and dry. Seal the 5th gear tail extension to the transmission. and seal and install the front adapter plate. We use the black Right Stuff. It works extremely well.

Clean both of the mating surfaces of the crawl box adapters and apply sealant ( once again I use the Right Stuff)

Assembling the crawl box to the transmission.
One nice thing to have is some 10x1.25x80 mm fully threaded bolts to help with pulling the crawl box to the trans.

Simply align the splines and wiggle and slip the crawl box onto the transmssion.

Once the splines are started push with a little up and down motion or side to side motion and the crawl box will slide most of the way on. ( I have yet to see one just slip on all the way. ) Next if the supplied hardware will thread in use that on the top 4 bolts as they are centered aroung the output shaft. Gently not with an impact but by hand with a 1/4 drive ratchet pull the two together. Once the two are mated install all 8 bolts and torque to spec.

Split-case installation

Really the only thing at all tough about this install is notching the front 1/2 of the split-case to accomodate for the shift rail extension coming off the crawl box.
The other thing to make sure of is shimming the imput gear of the split-case correctly with the supplied shims from Marlin. The rest of the split case assembly is the same as normal.

Cam
Hope this helps
Typed this fast hope spelling isn't bad.
 

RufusTheDufus

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Thank you Cam, and everyone who has posted. I think I'll start on this project this weekend. It doesn't seem too bad.

Since the vehicle is an HJ45 with an H diesel (not 2H) there is no supporting crossmember for the transmission. The H has the rear engine mounts integrated with the bell housing. That simplifies things a little bit for me. I do have the IPOR 40 series skid plate and intend to modify it with a trans mount. I saw some photos from IPOR where they did this an I like the concept.

I also have the correct 40 series shifter which will save me some aggravation in modifying the floor.


I know I'll have to relocate the round crossover tube. I took some initial, rough measurements. The H55+splitcase will fit but it will be really tight. I've got 24" from the bellhousing to the front edge of the crossover tube. The H55 is 23" in length from the face that mounts to the bellhousing to the rear output flange of the splitcase. The Toybox adds another 7 inches. I'm planning to use the drum ebrake on the splitcase so that adds some length too.

There's one part in the kit that I'm not sure where it goes. It appears to almost fit in the plate that mounts to the back of the H55, roughly where the stock rear output shaft bearing is.

Here's a photo of the part:
toybox-mystery-part.jpg


Where does it go?

Also, is the plastic 5th gear oiler still used? There is conflicting info out there on the web. It appears that it's not necessary with the new M24 adapter plate but I wanted to be sure.
 
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Cruiserdrew

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Most of this upgrade is pretty straight forward.

The process between the the H42 and the H55 are the same if you are cutting the output shaft of the transmission. The H55 and the late model FJ-60 H42 does have one more step like someone already mentioned ( that is sealing the rear tail extension.)

First thing I would like to mention is the only way to do this job on the H55 is to cut the 19 spline output shaft.

If you are doing the FJ-40 or early FJ-60 with out the tail extension, you should use Marlin's 10 spline output shaft replacement. The reason being the 10 spline output shaft is retained with a C-clip and the 19 spline output shaft is only retained with a press fit bearing. With the 19 spline output shaft on the transmission it is required to use the Clamp Ring supplied with the crawl box.

Now back to the H-55

The only way to do the H-55 is to cut the shaft, as stated earlier.

First do a dry run on fitting the front adapter plate so you can measure and mark and cut the out put shaft of the transmission. Once you have the plate install and the 3 or 4 bolts holding the front adapter plate to the transmission measure 35 mm from the back of the adapter plate. That is where you are going to cut the shaft. ( We use a 4.5" cut off wheel and spin the transmission to cut the shaft)

Once you have done this you need to dis-assmeble the plate and hardware thorughly clean all affected areas focusing on the fith gear area. Now remove the last bearing on the output shaft, and the steel spacer sleeve. It is now time to install the Clamp Ring.

Installing the clamp ring
The clamping ring will slide most of the way on, but sometimes needs to be tapped the last 1/2 inch. Tighten this with a 3/16th's inch hex key wrench pritty much as tight as you can possibly tighten it.

Cleaning up the the end of the splines
As you cut the output shaft I recommend on the last part of the cut turning you cutoff wheel if you will side ways and chamfer the end of the splines. If you dont do this it will make it very difficult to slide the crawl box on the transmission. Once the splines are chamfered you need to file / buff the splines and all sharp edges. There can be no burrs left on the shaft as it might go on but will be very difficult to take off if ever neccessary.

Prepping the transmission
Clean the back of the trans so it is clean and dry. Seal the 5th gear tail extension to the transmission. and seal and install the front adapter plate. We use the black Right Stuff. It works extremely well.

Clean both of the mating surfaces of the crawl box adapters and apply sealant ( once again I use the Right Stuff)

Assembling the crawl box to the transmission.
One nice thing to have is some 10x1.25x80 mm fully threaded bolts to help with pulling the crawl box to the trans.

Simply align the splines and wiggle and slip the crawl box onto the transmssion.

Once the splines are started push with a little up and down motion or side to side motion and the crawl box will slide most of the way on. ( I have yet to see one just slip on all the way. ) Next if the supplied hardware will thread in use that on the top 4 bolts as they are centered aroung the output shaft. Gently not with an impact but by hand with a 1/4 drive ratchet pull the two together. Once the two are mated install all 8 bolts and torque to spec.

Split-case installation

Really the only thing at all tough about this install is notching the front 1/2 of the split-case to accomodate for the shift rail extension coming off the crawl box.
The other thing to make sure of is shimming the imput gear of the split-case correctly with the supplied shims from Marlin. The rest of the split case assembly is the same as normal.

Cam
Hope this helps
Typed this fast hope spelling isn't bad.


That's awsome, thanks for taking the time to type this.

I know that CaliCruiser went through this and had a very tough time, but his threads do detail a lot of what he eventually did.
 
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Thank you Cam, and everyone who has posted. I think I'll start on this project this weekend. It doesn't seem too bad.

Since the vehicle is an HJ45 with an H diesel (not 2H) there is no supporting crossmember for the transmission. The H has the rear engine mounts integrated with the bell housing. That simplifies things a little bit for me. I do have the IPOR 40 series skid plate and intend to modify it with a trans mount. I saw some photos from IPOR where they did this an I like the concept.

I also have the correct 40 series shifter which will save me some aggravation in modifying the floor.


I know I'll have to relocate the round crossover tube. I took some initial, rough measurements. The H55+splitcase will fit but it will be really tight. I've got 24" from the bellhousing to the front edge of the crossover tube. The H55 is 23" in length from the face that mounts to the bellhousing to the rear output flange of the splitcase. The Toybox adds another 7 inches. I'm planning to use the drum ebrake on the splitcase so that adds some length too.

There's one part in the kit that I'm not sure where it goes. It appears to almost fit in the plate that mounts to the back of the H55, roughly where the stock rear output shaft bearing is.

Here's a photo of the part:
toybox-mystery-part.jpg


Where does it go?

Also, is the plastic 5th gear oiler still used? There is conflicting info out there on the web. It appears that it's not necessary with the new M24 adapter plate but I wanted to be sure.

To answer the first question the plastic oiler is not used. That is designed to snap into the front half of the split case to collect and oil the fith gear. Marlin and his infinite engineering wisdom, engineered this into the front adapter plate so once installed the fifth gear is oiled.

Second if the split case is from an automatic or a late 60 this is used to put pressure on the output bearring of the crawl box, and I believe but will need to check my records the 3 course thread allen cap screws then have to come out. If you are using a earlier split case I belive this is not even used.

I need to double check this last statement about the aluminum ring but I believe I am correct
Will reply tomorrow and verify
Cam
 
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I had an issue with the Toybox binding on the h55f output shaft as they slid together. I examined the splines with a hand lens and I'm sure they where clean and deburred. I spent a long time with a micrometer and discovered that the diameter of the output shaft was was about .008" larger at the base then where it was cut.

I marked the output shaft with a sharpie to see where it was binding, which was about 1/2 down the shaft. I filed the splines with a diamond file, cleaned, marked and test fitted the pieces. I repeated this process 4 or 5 times until the Toybox stopped binding.

You might want to consider dry fitting the bits before you apply sealant.
 

RufusTheDufus

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I saw your posts about the binding issue. They were very helpful, and part of the reason I started this thread. I am going to dry fit everything, go slow and make sure it all works before sealing anything up.
 

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