When to Replace Radiator?
- Thread starter LexandRex
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Vibration and lack of maintenance kills radiators, not age. I didn't need to change my 100's radiator in 16 years.
I just had to change mine out last month on my 2002 LX470. Well maintained. I have 245000 miles on it. Just for your information. I will say that I noticed a antifreeze smell for a few weeks before it failed. The failure point was the seam between the top plastice section and the middle aluminum core.
I would think age/heat cycles kill the plastics. When the oe plastics turn brownish, change it. Its brittle.
I agree. Both my brothers and my 99's had a lot of small cracks in the upper tank. I changed his when I did his tbelt and I'll do the same on mine. Not leaking but not worth the chance
I can say this... BOTH engines I've replaced in 100's were due to the radiator cracking/splitting at the tank to fins seam... on the lx470 it was it's second radiator... the problem is when you have a total radiator failure the water escapes so fast that it never registers on the temp gauge because the sending unit is in the dry seconds after time of failure... when to replace? who knows... I'm running a less than $100 unit in mine now off ebay and I look at it every time i fill up... but then i check my oil every time I put gas in...
as a side note... the ebay cheap radiator is only 2 row vs the 4 row stock unit... (which is a whole subject about heat transfer/ air flow / resistance/ fluid dynamics and flow patterns/ physical size coil & fin material & spacing, coolant capacity & flow rate ) .. but... it weighs considerably less and there is far less stress on the exact areas I have seen them fail... in a perfect world radiator design is a compromise at best... but a all welded all aluminum 2 or 3 row radiator... this is after all is a low rpm very small V8... by design this engine and it's designed management of fuel requires it to run hotter than your old hand me down ford to meet emission standards...
as a side note... the ebay cheap radiator is only 2 row vs the 4 row stock unit... (which is a whole subject about heat transfer/ air flow / resistance/ fluid dynamics and flow patterns/ physical size coil & fin material & spacing, coolant capacity & flow rate ) .. but... it weighs considerably less and there is far less stress on the exact areas I have seen them fail... in a perfect world radiator design is a compromise at best... but a all welded all aluminum 2 or 3 row radiator... this is after all is a low rpm very small V8... by design this engine and it's designed management of fuel requires it to run hotter than your old hand me down ford to meet emission standards...
Just bought my LC a few weeks ago, 175k miles on it. Found a hairline crack in the top plastic tank that was barely spraying coolant. I smelled anti freeze but never saw the leak. It was under the top foam seal and soaking into the foam. Didn't see the leak till I pulled the foam out. I replaced it with an OEM radiator.
- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks for the replies, obviously there is not going to be an exact number but this was good insight none the less.
I've seen a few similar stories on here as well. I think I'm just going to replace it on my second TB/WP change.
I've seen a few similar stories on here as well. I think I'm just going to replace it on my second TB/WP change.
Good point @ponyti.
The issue of gauge not reading high temp or even reading low temp when coolant level too low is problematic. I'm guilty of not looking at gauge as often as I should. But I am very aware of smells, sounds & vibration of my LC.
Proper maintenance not only means using only Toyota coolant and de-mineralized water (if water used) and flush when scheduled calls for. It's looking at ground where parked for fluid drops . Checking coolant level as often as one fills gas tank is best practice, boy I have I neglected that one. My 100 has never needed a drop, but if it did I investigation as to why. Visually checking hoses and radiator for the telling sign of red crud and weep hole at bottom of T-Belt cover for drips.
This reminded me to check reservoir level while cold today. I found it ~1/16th inch below cold line which looks good. 24K miles ago when I flushed & top to cold line, outside temp was 50 to 70 degrees higher, which today's cold weather accounts for 1/16th.
But unless I find issue I'll not be replacing radiator as a preventive measure, T's & T-belt well that's different.
The issue of gauge not reading high temp or even reading low temp when coolant level too low is problematic. I'm guilty of not looking at gauge as often as I should. But I am very aware of smells, sounds & vibration of my LC.
Proper maintenance not only means using only Toyota coolant and de-mineralized water (if water used) and flush when scheduled calls for. It's looking at ground where parked for fluid drops . Checking coolant level as often as one fills gas tank is best practice, boy I have I neglected that one. My 100 has never needed a drop, but if it did I investigation as to why. Visually checking hoses and radiator for the telling sign of red crud and weep hole at bottom of T-Belt cover for drips.
This reminded me to check reservoir level while cold today. I found it ~1/16th inch below cold line which looks good. 24K miles ago when I flushed & top to cold line, outside temp was 50 to 70 degrees higher, which today's cold weather accounts for 1/16th.
But unless I find issue I'll not be replacing radiator as a preventive measure, T's & T-belt well that's different.
If the top of the radiator looks fine, but the connection to the upper radiator hose is starting to turn brown (only visible when the hose is removed), would you consider replacing or would you let it ride?
change it, all the plastic is the same age. just because the discoloration hasnt really shown on the tank dont mean that its still good, your only as strong as the weakest point
My oem radiator had the brown top tank which kept me awake at times when I first purchased my LC, so I replaced it as a PM and filled with OEM toyota red at 170K. No problems at all.
I guess it kind of depends on previous service history from previous owner.
I guess it kind of depends on previous service history from previous owner.
I replaced mine at 155k miles, the top tanks of the OEM one were turning light brown. I know due to experience, that the top tanks of Toyota radiators become brittle with age.
I rely on my truck in remote areas, so it's relatively cheap insurance.
I rely on my truck in remote areas, so it's relatively cheap insurance.
I replaced mine when I realized how Brown my Radiator was. Great insurance to just get it done and over with. It is quite easy to replace in an afternoon. There are some good Youtube videos to watch and follow if you have some concerns.
Those are my exact thoughts. A break there would still be catastrophic. There's just a lot of talk about the top getting brown and brittle, I wonder how bad their upper radiator hose connections were. I would never have known if I didn't start just removing stuff to check around for curiosity's sake.
depending on your moles you may want to replace the rad hoses and clamps as well. if you go with aftermarket hoses the factory clamps may not fit as the outer diameter may be bigger, found that out when i had to replace the rad and hoses on the corolla
Definitely will replace all the related hoses and clamps with it.
Look at the condition. Does the top hard plastic have visible cracks? Is it very rusted? Are the fins highly damaged? Is it leaking or you over heating? Does your coolant system have clogs (i.e. like cholesterol build up when you change the water pump or other items)? I am replacing mine at 170K mi I don't want to be stranded if I go outing.