What type of oil

[Corbet]

Changing oil weights is not going to fix a leak. Just slow it down when cold.

I run Mobil 1 5w-40 diesel truck. After trying 0w-40 and having consumption issues. Most have tried various oils and found one they like for what ever reason. If you look at the FAQ I linked above there is an international oil chart there for the 1FZ listing oil weights based on climate.

If your leak is significant I'd choose a less expensive oil like the Rotella 15w-40 generally had at Wal-Mart for cheap and appropriate for FL.

 

[VuickB6]

The cap and the FSM say 5w30 because that is the weight mandated by the US EPA. In another country it probably says something else.

Anyway, use oil. 1FZ wants near 2 gallons if you let it drip overnight.

The EPA has nothing to do with what oil weight a manufacturer recommends.

 

[Alleycats]

Preaching? I don't think so. Just pointing out the facts, and this isn't your thread.

I'd absolutely LOVE to get at the root of the problem. I'd love to pull the engine, give it an overhaul and possibly do new rings and pistons, to the tune of $3000 to $6000. Or I'd love to pay the 20 hours shop labor of having the engine lifted off the mounts to seal the upper pan. However at $4 a quart for oil, the fact that I have three young kids, and have recently started a business - the idea of changing oil weights seems to be a fairly prudent and sound financial decision at this point in time.

Instead of getting preached to, I'd love to hear from people that actually did change oil weights and see what their results were.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

The EPA has nothing to do with what oil weight a manufacturer recommends.

I haven't found exact citations yet but this came up, iirc, because my VW's manual doesn't recommend any specific weight, but the oil cap on the engine has a Castrol logo (due to a marketing contract) and says 5W30 on it. But I have been assured that the same engine in Europe would say 5W40, or 0W40 in colder regions.

It has something to do with fouling of the catalytic converter. *shrug*

 

[Kernal]

I also tried Mobil 1 0W-40, going from 5W-40 TDT, and the oil consumption shot up dramatically (one quart in 500 miles). Went back to 5W-40 TDT and consumption (no leaks) is at one quart in ~3000 miles. Only theoretical concern I have with the TDT is the higher phosphorus and whether it may some day help kill off my cats.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Just more of the 'Mr. T made it that way for a reason!' crowd. Blind faith.

Add some high mileage 15w40 and see what happens. Again 20w50 is pretty thick stuff, I'd see what 15w40 will do first. 20w50 will run just fine in your 3FE but its really viscous stuff. You might not notice any decreased fuel economy with that pig of an engine anyway though.

 

[maxamillion2345]

I also tried Mobil 1 0W-40, going from 5W-40 TDT, and the oil consumption shot up dramatically (one quart in 500 miles). Went back to 5W-40 TDT and consumption (no leaks) is at one quart in ~3000 miles. Only theoretical concern I have with the TDT is the higher phosphorus and whether it may some day help kill off my cats.

ZDDP... Hell with the cats though.

 

[Kernal]

Even without annual inspections (none in my state) having working cats is a good thing, untreated exhaust gases smell like sheit.

 

[FirstToy]

I use chicken grease and squeeze used baby diapers in

I got the 80 because it's tough like a honey badger.
Put what's on sale at Costco in it. Honey badger don't care.

 

[Howard705]

I'd absolutely LOVE to get at the root of the problem. I'd love to pull the engine, give it an overhaul and possibly do new rings and pistons, to the tune of $3000 to $6000. Or I'd love to pay the 20 hours shop labor of having the engine lifted off the mounts to seal the upper pan. However at $4 a quart for oil, the fact that I have three young kids, and have recently started a business - the idea of changing oil weights seems to be a fairly prudent and sound financial decision at this point in time.

Instead of getting preached to, I'd love to hear from people that actually did change oil weights and see what their results were.

Boring old 10w-30 high mileage. If you have an oil leak or are burning oil then fix your issue don't apply a band aid. Get at the ROOT.

It's not a Band-Aid when using or burning tiny amounts unless you're showing it at Pebble Beach. Perfectly acceptable and I know if you search that Toyota says something in the range of a quart every 1000 or so. All engines have factory tolerances for what is ok for oil consumption/compression/etc. Industrial engines/heavy truck engines/aircraft/etc all use oil to a certain extent and are run to near the end of their life cycle then are overhauled-not before.

 

[OGBeno]

I use chicken grease and squeeze used baby diapers in

I got the 80 because it's tough like a honey badger.
Put what's on sale at Costco in it. Honey badger don't care.

This has generally been my philosophy on all my fluids in the 80. Just use what you like, can find, can afford, can splurge on and just drive the thing.



Way too many other things to spend money on and think about (like a long block 2F build.... )

 

[VuickB6]

I haven't found exact citations yet but this came up, iirc, because my VW's manual doesn't recommend any specific weight, but the oil cap on the engine has a Castrol logo (due to a marketing contract) and says 5W30 on it. But I have been assured that the same engine in Europe would say 5W40, or 0W40 in colder regions.

It has something to do with fouling of the catalytic converter. *shrug*

The number preceeding the W in your example coincides with a temp at which the engine should not be started if it's any colder. The lower the number the lower the temp the engine can be safely started using that oil. The 40 part of your example is if they require an oil with a viscosity of 40 at operating temp then that shouldn't change in different regions on vehicles with modern cooling systems since they all run roughly the same temp.

The fouling of the cats comes from oils that are high in zinc and phosphorous if I remember correctly. When your vehicle burns oil it goes out the exhaust and will coat the catalyst and also poison it.

Just more of the 'Mr. T made it that way for a reason!' crowd. Blind faith.

YOU MEAN TO TELL ME THAT FOR 233,00 MILES I'VE BEEN USING THE WRONG OIL!??!??!/1111/?

If I switch now to diesel oil will everything be ok or am I already screwed? FFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU!

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

*shrug* the manual in my 2007 GTI does not recommend any specific weight. It mentions several weight ranges for different operating regions.

But the cap says Castrol 5w30. And word from the VW crowd is that this has everything to do with VWoA having a contract to sell Castrol exclusively at their dealerships, and some emissions regulation weirdness. European oil caps say 5w40, and the castrol sold in the EU is not the castrol sold in the USA. Different crude sources, different additive blend, different tolerances.

And the vast majority of car nerds with a 2005-up 2.0T engine like mine are running 5w40 or 0w40, mostly mobil1, some lubro-moly, some Castrol. Always full synthetic.

The guys with pre-2005 1.8T are mostly running 5w40 mobil1 turbo diesel truck. Some have switched to Rotella T6.

my machinist friend assures me that the diesel oil exemption for ZDDP additive has expired. The oil experts say that some sources of crude have plenty of zinc in them anyway, and naturally occurring zinc content is curiously not regulated.

In a 3FE or 1FZ, I figure, "Tractor motor don't care". use what's best for you. At this point our engines have all gone through different trials and tribulations and have different needs.

Recently, Blackstone Labs did some meta-analysis and determined if there was any meaningful difference between specific products. They chose some popular engines. Weeded out the engines that have known issues.

Their conclusion? Use oil. Use enough oil. Use multigrade if you live somewhere that freezes. Change your oil and filter when you run out of additives.

 

[watrob]

Use a heavy oil and change to a mineral based oil. Also get an oil with the highest zinc content you can find. You live in Florida, min 15w-40, I use 20w-60 with a very high zinc content with added sticky additives, my vehicle sits from one week to the next between starts so I want the oil to stick to moving parts when sitting idle.

You have a 1993 engine, now worn, synthetic oils are no use to you, most synthetic oils when they get hot get thinner than a mineral based oil do so you need to go up a grade in warm to hot climates anyway.

Zinc will take up on your worn engine parts, then on the next oil change go back to a standard 15w-40 if your worried about your cats (that's if you have cats) but if your burning that much oil now I think the cats have been well and truly coated already.

 

[maxamillion2345]

YOU MEAN TO TELL ME THAT FOR 233,00 MILES I'VE BEEN USING THE WRONG OIL!??!??!/1111/?

If I switch now to diesel oil will everything be ok or am I already screwed? FFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU!

Yeah, my point exactly.

You act like 233k is a lot of miles... hah.

MR T IS GOD, ALL HEIL

edit: sorry not sorry

 

[VuickB6]

*shrug* the manual in my 2007 GTI does not recommend any specific weight. It mentions several weight ranges for different operating regions.

But the cap says Castrol 5w30. And word from the VW crowd is that this has everything to do with VWoA having a contract to sell Castrol exclusively at their dealerships, and some emissions regulation weirdness. European oil caps say 5w40, and the castrol sold in the EU is not the castrol sold in the USA. Different crude sources, different additive blend, different tolerances.

And the vast majority of car nerds with a 2005-up 2.0T engine like mine are running 5w40 or 0w40, mostly mobil1, some lubro-moly, some Castrol. Always full synthetic.

The guys with pre-2005 1.8T are mostly running 5w40 mobil1 turbo diesel truck. Some have switched to Rotella T6.

my machinist friend assures me that the diesel oil exemption for ZDDP additive has expired. The oil experts say that some sources of crude have plenty of zinc in them anyway, and naturally occurring zinc content is curiously not regulated.

In a 3FE or 1FZ, I figure, "Tractor motor don't care". use what's best for you. At this point our engines have all gone through different trials and tribulations and have different needs.

Recently, Blackstone Labs did some meta-analysis and determined if there was any meaningful difference between specific products. They chose some popular engines. Weeded out the engines that have known issues.

Their conclusion? Use oil. Use enough oil. Use multigrade if you live somewhere that freezes. Change your oil and filter when you run out of additives.

I still have the manual from my 2012 Beetle Turbo, I'll check it out and see if it mentions anything. I always used Motul Specific 5W-40 in it and also the V8 Touareg I had before that. My 2003 A4 1.8T always got Castrol SLX LL03. I never had any issues running those oils and the UOA always came back great on them. The A4 had a full exhaust and APR tune and had 160,000 miles before I got rid of it. The Touareg was stock and had just over 100,000 when I traded it in for the Beetle which had a full exhaust and APR tune and almost 60,000 miles before it got flooded.


I'm not trying to say not to use a certain type because like you said there have been many different oils ran in these LC motors with no issues. Just sharing what little I know.

 

[VuickB6]

Yeah, my point exactly.

You act like 233k is a lot of miles... hah.

MR T IS GOD, ALL HEIL

edit: sorry not sorry

It's a lot of miles when you're using the wrong oil! Should have know I couldn't trust Toyota to specify the right oil for their own motors.


*drives off quickly to go buy diesel oil*

 

[maxamillion2345]

I'm not saying you need to run diesel oil. My point is that just because Toyota specified an oil doesn't mean they chose the best oil for the engine. My post was never directed at you. This forum is full of those who think that Toyota is the only game in town though, it's almost cult like.

 

[VuickB6]

I'm not saying you need to run diesel oil. My point is that just because Toyota specified an oil doesn't mean they chose the best oil for the engine. My post was never directed at you. This forum is full of those who think that Toyota is the only game in town though, it's almost cult like.

Stop playing with my emotions and just TELL ME WHAT OIL TO RUN!

 

[maxamillion2345]

0w-20 for the fuel economy. That 1fz needs all the help it can get.