What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (27 Viewers)

JDNs78FJ40

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Dec 3, 2018
Messages
459
Location
Draper Utah
Got around to rebuilding the doors with replated hardware and new lock and crank mechanisms. Everything was easy breezy and the pre-cut vapor barrier from @GA Architect was perfect! I continue to struggle with the weatherstrip and I would not wish installing new weatherstrip on my worst enemy 😡. Followed instructions but still have spots where it’s not sticking, the saga continues...
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Trigger6

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Joined
Jan 15, 2020
Messages
45
Location
KS
Got around to rebuilding the doors with replated hardware and new lock and crank mechanisms. Everything was easy breezy and the pre-cut vapor barrier from @GA Architect was perfect! I continue to struggle with the weatherstrip and I would not wish installing new weatherstrip on my worst enemy 😡. Followed instructions but still have spots where it’s not sticking, the saga continues...View attachment 2546676
View attachment 2546677
View attachment 2546678
I had very good luck using the black “super glue” vs using black contact cement when I installed mine. It wasn’t perfect, because I learned along the way, but looks pretty darn good and holding tight.
 

Trigger6

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 15, 2020
Messages
45
Location
KS
Got around to rebuilding the doors with replated hardware and new lock and crank mechanisms. Everything was easy breezy and the pre-cut vapor barrier from @GA Architect was perfect! I continue to struggle with the weatherstrip and I would not wish installing new weatherstrip on my worst enemy 😡. Followed instructions but still have spots where it’s not sticking, the saga continues...View attachment 2546676
View attachment 2546677
View attachment 2546678
By the way... the hardware and door panels look great.
(When I had mine apart, I also pulled the glass and had it tinted)
 
Joined
Feb 3, 2020
Messages
197
Location
Stanwood, WA
No. That is contact cement.

I used IC-2000 (with the accelerator for instant set). It’s like super glue for rubber.
I’m using the 3M 08011 for mine and I’ve been having no problems. I have also just adhered 1 side and let that set up, then do the rest of the stripping a couple hours later with a chip clip in the fresh corners. Seems to help it not want to pull out of shape.
In case that doesn’t make sense to people not in my head.... On rear lift hatch, I adhered the bottom edge only and let it sit 2 hours. Then I did the sides and top edge all at once and used a chip clip or spring clamp in each of the top corners. Waited two hours and it was good to go.
 
Joined
Feb 3, 2020
Messages
197
Location
Stanwood, WA
Has anyone tried sanding the weatherstripping? If you put a patch on a bicycle tire, you must sand to remove the mold-release left on the surface where the adhesive goes, and you employ rubbing alcohol to deal with impurities (i.e. tire sealant).
I used goof off to clean the release agent first. That’s what City Racer’s instructions recommended.
 
Joined
Jul 28, 2018
Messages
195
Location
Crofton Maryland
Hey all - i installed the energy suspension body mounts seen below. Quick question - do you ever give a squirt of grease between the mount and the body/frame to help prevent squeaks when driving, or are the mounts quiet without it? Just want to get it right before I start bolting more things onto the body.

 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 28, 2018
Messages
195
Location
Crofton Maryland
Hey all - i installed the energy suspension body mounts seen below. Quick question - do you ever give a squirt of grease between the mount and the body/frame to help prevent squeaks when driving, or are the mounts quiet without it? Just want to get it right before I start bolting more things onto the body.

Did some google research - seems that silicone grease is a good thing to use.
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
4,796
Location
Prescott Valley, AZ
Got around to rebuilding the doors with replated hardware and new lock and crank mechanisms. Everything was easy breezy and the pre-cut vapor barrier from @GA Architect was perfect! I continue to struggle with the weatherstrip and I would not wish installing new weatherstrip on my worst enemy 😡. Followed instructions but still have spots where it’s not sticking, the saga continues...View attachment 2546676
View attachment 2546677
View attachment 2546678
Really nice work sir, high time for me to redo my weather strips for the glass to stop the glass rattle. I also used Rick’s @GA Architect vapor strips, they work great! But need to order a few more sets so I can go back in to fix the rattle. I assume that is what causes the rattle when windows down, worn weather strips inside the door mechanism?
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
4,796
Location
Prescott Valley, AZ
Hey all - i installed the energy suspension body mounts seen below. Quick question - do you ever give a squirt of grease between the mount and the body/frame to help prevent squeaks when driving, or are the mounts quiet without it? Just want to get it right before I start bolting more things onto the body.

No squeak whatsoever on mine after the new Energy Suspension body mounts, much quieter and controlled, and that says a lot for an FJ40!!!! I used no grease.
 

JDNs78FJ40

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 3, 2018
Messages
459
Location
Draper Utah
Really nice work sir, high time for me to redo my weather strips for the glass to stop the glass rattle. I also used Rick’s @GA Architect vapor strips, they work great! But need to order a few more sets so I can go back in to fix the rattle. I assume that is what causes the rattle when windows down, worn weather strips inside the door mechanism?
Yes, if the felts in the lower part of the door are worn out that would cause a rattle. I bought my felt from CityRacer. There are 2 lower pieces one is very easy to install and the other is a nightmare. Very tight space. Plan on having some cuts on your hands...
 

JDNs78FJ40

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Joined
Dec 3, 2018
Messages
459
Location
Draper Utah
Has anyone tried sanding the weatherstripping? If you put a patch on a bicycle tire, you must sand to remove the mold-release left on the surface where the adhesive goes, and you employ rubbing alcohol to deal with impurities (i.e. tire sealant).
This is a great suggestion and one I wish I would have tried. I ordered some of the glue mentioned by @Trigger6 to fix the spots that aren't adhering as well as I'd like. Will update as soon as it arrives.
 

Trigger6

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Joined
Jan 15, 2020
Messages
45
Location
KS
This is a great suggestion and one I wish I would have tried. I ordered some of the glue mentioned by @Trigger6 to fix the spots that aren't adhering as well as I'd like. Will update as soon as it arrives.
Order the activator as well. The glue by itself takes 5-10min to set. But if you put a small bead of glue on the door, press the weatherstrip in place then give it a quick spray of activator, it sets in about 10sec.

After I had the weatherstrip in place, I went back and ran another small bead of glue along the edge of the weatherstrip (and gave it a quick spray of activator) to make sure it would not pull loose. The activator does not harm the paint or weatherstrip and evaporates after a few minutes.
 
Joined
Mar 11, 2020
Messages
58
Location
SF Bay Area, Ca-NorCal
Today we used 64 Impala (part# OER 3786368) speedo-cable grommet for our speedo cable. I've purchased several speedo cable grommets from several vendors only to find out the grommets are several mm larger than hole, not one fits, it's a 45mm+/- hole not a 52mm+/- hole. It was the only grommet not replaced since we bought it. I even bought solid body grommets to cut/drill but misplaced those. Btw it's a 6/70 build date but has qualities of a post 7/70
 

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