What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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On the way to back home from a California trip, the truck got a P0172 (bank 2 rich), long term fuel trims getting a negative reading but was able to clear DTCs w/o a problem and ran smoothly with positive LTFT readings. I already had a feeling it’s the ignition plug/s, just don’t know which cylinder.

So I did a full inspection the following day and found cylinder 1 and 2 ignition plugs brown in color and had little traces of oil on the ignition plug tip; all 4 bank 2 plugs will be replaced with Denso and will keep the two non-browning as spare.
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Also found the radiator hose/clamp wasn’t fully seated and caused a little coolant leak that splattered in the valley area.
Ran a coolant system pressure test and it maintained a 17PSI the whole time so I ordered new upper radiator hose and 2x clamps.
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That throttle body inner cylinder wall will get some degreasing and slight surface polish, will share before and after pictures next time.

Hose 1 and 2 of the air injection system were stiff as a rock so I ordered new ones as well
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While the intake manifold is out, I have decided to deep clean it inside-out, will share before and after pictures next time.
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Same with the bank 1 and 2 fuel rails and injectors being out, I ordered new top and bottom o-ring/rubber insulators; 4 out of the 8 were partially disintegrated and these parts are non-reusable especially when you disturb/remove them, last injector o-ring/insulator service was 7 years ago.

Bank 1 & 2 VVTi actuators also had traces of oil weep and dirt around them, glad I have spare OEM rubber o-rings I ordered in the past and serviced both right away.
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Intake manifold restoration is done, got all the years of compounded oil and grease deposits out from the ports, walls & throttle bodies, new OEM gaskets on its way.
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Since the oem 4-hole injectors are out, I will have a local guy bench-test them this afternoon for efficiency, flow rate, etc so I can decide if I will reuse or opt for the 12-hole.
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Disassembled the fuel injection rails from the line to properly rebuild them with a new fuel hose, 6x new banjo fittings all around and o-ring gasket. And while at it might as well cosmetically restore it like it was ‘06.
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Disassembled the secondary air injection pump for full inspection and looked for any loose parts/dirt/unusual movement, all good hopefully can last for another 100k miles, cleaned it thoroughly and buttoned it up.
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All the top end parts are prep’d and ready. And that’s what I did to my hundy this week, until the next update.✌️
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OEMGUY0720 said:
Intake manifold restoration is done, got all the years of compounded oil and grease deposits out from the ports, walls & throttle bodies, new OEM gaskets on its way.
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Since the oem 4-hole injectors are out, I will have a local guy bench-test them this afternoon for efficiency, flow rate, etc so I can decide if I will reuse or opt for the 12-hole.
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Disassembled the fuel injection rails from the line to properly rebuild them with a new fuel hose, 6x new banjo fittings all around and o-ring gasket. And while at it might as well cosmetically restore it like it was ‘06.
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Disassembled the secondary air injection pump for full inspection and looked for any loose parts/dirt/unusual movement, all good hopefully can last for another 100k miles, cleaned it thoroughly and buttoned it up.
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All the top end parts are prep’d and ready. And that’s what I did to my hundy this week, until the next update.✌️
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Your foam SAIS filter looks about 90% missing...
Would be a great opportunity to upgrade to a remote filter.

Do you have a catch can?
 
GTV said:
Your foam SAIS filter looks about 90% missing...
Would be a great opportunity to upgrade to a remote filter.

Do you have a catch can?
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No I don’t have an oil catch can, should we? I serviced the PCV and the relief ball valve is good, little amount of oil came out when I sprayed it with cleaner.
And yup that infamous oem internal foam is something I am not putting back lol, it degrades overtime and will eventually get sucked in again. Although I like your suggestion for a remote/external clamp on filter. Aside from the Uni Filter which 4R and Tacoma owners use, any other recommended high flow filter? Thanks.
 
OEMGUY0720 said:
No I don’t have an oil catch can, should we? I serviced the PCV and the relief ball valve is good, little amount of oil came out when I sprayed it with cleaner.
And yup that infamous oem internal foam is something I am not putting back lol, it degrades overtime and will eventually get sucked in again. Although I like your suggestion for a remote/external clamp on filter. Aside from the Uni Filter which 4R and Tacoma owners use, any other recommended high flow filter? Thanks.
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When I took the (alloy) intake off my former Tundra to do the starter there was a significant amount of oil inside of it (after ≈250k miles). I’ve considered a catch can ever since then. How did yours look?
I’m using the Uni Filter style on my air pump. With the engine cover on it isn’t even visible.

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Busy couple of days. Replaced the Lock actuator motor in the drivers door yesterday. Bigger pain than i thought it was going to be.
Today was new radiator install with new hoses and new heater T’s. The radiator and T‘s were all original and showed there age。Radiator was faded to a light brown and cracked in a couple places and Both T’s were broken at the ends and well on their way to breaking。No picks from the actuator motors，but a couple from today’s radiator install.

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FGreggo said:
Busy couple of days. Replaced the Lock actuator motor in the drivers door yesterday. Bigger pain than i thought it was going to be.
Today was new radiator install with new hoses and new heater T’s. The radiator and T‘s were all original and showed there age。Radiator was faded to a light brown and cracked in a couple places and Both T’s were broken at the ends and well on their way to breaking。No picks from the actuator motors，but a couple from today’s radiator install.

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I'm avoiding the door lock actuators even though it's CRAZY hot right now in Durango...mostly I'm worried about breaking plastic bits while removing the door cards.
 
100d ua said:
The other day at work while leaving for lunch, I experienced my first ever "long crank, almost didn't start". Was about to let off the key in a millisecond and it finally cranked over. I just got back from a 1k+ road trip so not sure if it was bad gas, starter or fuel pump going out.

Today I tried the free things, cleaned the throttle body, MAF sensor, battery terminals, and checked the air filter. Will see if the issue persists or gets worse.

I'm able to source a Toyota OEM fuel pump for $300 with the 20% off sale going on now so i'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet on that anyways at 292k miles or just get a Delphi brand for $140 since it's impossible to find the OE Denso replacement kits.

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Just thought I would update. I'm 99% certain the battery went kaput.

Costco Interstate battery from July of 2020, so I got exactly 6 years out of it.

Went to go start up the LC today after it sitting for a day and a half and it was completely dead. Checked the battery and it was only reading 10.50 volts.

Super lucky we didn't take it to the coast last night and glad it happened this week because we have a road trip planned for next week. Just weird that I didn't get any real signs the battery was failing aside from the long crank I experienced last week.
 
Trapper50cal said:
I'm avoiding the door lock actuators even though it's CRAZY hot right now in Durango...mostly I'm worried about breaking plastic bits while removing the door cards.
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The door cards come off easy and there really isn't much plastic to break on them when removing. There is a white "channel" plastic piece that that door lock cables runs through that has a single retainer into the door metal. That piece is very difficult to remove without breaking. All it does is keep the cables from flopping around, so you only need a small piece of it intact, or can rig a substitute pretty easily.

I split the cases and use Loctite gel superglue and clamp them back together. Never had a failure of the case. Lots of people like epoxy but I think it's overkill.

Overall a pretty easy job. The first one takes a while to figure out how too fish the actuator assembly in/out around the window track but pretty quick after the initial learning curve.
 
TahoeZ said:
The door cards come off easy and there really isn't much plastic to break on them when removing. There is a white "channel" plastic piece that that door lock cables runs through that has a single retainer into the door metal. That piece is very difficult to remove without breaking. All it does is keep the cables from flopping around, so you only need a small piece of it intact, or can rig a substitute pretty easily.

I split the cases and use Loctite gel superglue and clamp them back together. Never had a failure of the case. Lots of people like epoxy but I think it's overkill.

Overall a pretty easy job. The first one takes a while to figure out how too fish the actuator assembly in/out around the window track but pretty quick after the initial learning curve.
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I agree, not a difficult job getting the lock actuators replaced, but still a bit of a pain. I did break the white plastic cable guide, but a little JB Weld and it was back together well enough for its job. The door cards come off very easy, the pain for me was getting my big hands in to unclip and reclip the cables.
 
I’m with these guys, the door cards weren’t too bad. It was all the finagling you need to do to figure out how to unhook the actuator. I just used normal superglue on the case and it seems to still be holding up fine. I did mine maybe 6 years ago?
 
chriscosta416 said:
Installed the mud flap delete kit from landruiserproducts, flashed the AHC fluid and serviced the trans and diffs!

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I have these and have been using em for years. I had a few minutes to mess around a year or two ago and made a knockoff set for a friend from a couple old license plates I had around, the kind where the numbers aren't embossed, just printed on a big sticker on an aluminum sheet.

I told him he COULD paint them if he felt like it, but that it would be way funnier to just run em with the number plates facing out, for the best "look." for SOME reason they only ran that way about a day. I think "wife opinion" may have been involved.
 
Did a little center console restore. Got a new rubber shifter knob from Cruiser Patch, new illuminated shifter trim plate from CD&M and new OEM trim ring. Also sanded and painted the console itself with SEM trim satin black paint and dyed the Hi/Lo boot with black leather dye. Really happy with how it came out.



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In the middle of a suspension install and purposefully created a very angry ball of potential energy. Turns out that I'm doing this the hard way; I already installed the new shock and so now the axle doesn't have enough droop for me to just slip the new spring in.
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Pictured above is the old spring. Terrain Tamer shocks and springs are going in.
 
ChroniclerCruiser said:
In the middle of a suspension install and purposefully created a very angry ball of potential energy. Turns out that I'm doing this the hard way; I already installed the new shock and so now the axle doesn't have enough droop for me to just slip the new spring in.
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Pictured above is the old spring. Terrain Tamer shocks and springs are going in.
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Honestly a spring compressor might be easier then disconnecting everything and using a floor jack to move the axle about
 
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