What did you do with your Tundra or Sequoia this weekend? (4 Viewers)

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My deer hit with the OEM was just off center -it ripped off the driver’s side headlight filler piece, which also meant it destroyed the headlight mount where it connects to the headlight. And of course the plastic bumper was damaged.

I used a body puller clamp to straighten out some bent metal brackets under the grill and it destroyed the stupid headlight washer on the driver’s side so I just cut all of that tubing and clamped it off. No need to spend money fixing that.

Lots of piece of mind having something that looks this good with all of the reinforcement. It’s heavier, but not ridiculous and the Dobinson’s suspension is better with some weight on it.

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Man! That’s gnarly!!!!! I’ve always wondered how these trucks fair in a deer collision. I’m happy to have the reinforcement of some substantial iron up front verses the plastics and tin metal.
 
Nothing major. But put ceramic tint all around. What a huge difference in cab temperature. In the past few months since purchase I have added a rough country 3 inch lift, it's been very smooth and I am impressed for the price. It's not a toy tech by any means but it has been pretty nice so far. I also replaced wheel bearings all around, and lower ball joints. Replaced, steering rack bushings and got an alignment. Replaced all differential and TCase fluid. New Android auto double din, and jbl speakers. Replaced timing belt and water pump. New head lights and better bulbs. New tail lights. Oh, I had my cats and downstream 02 sensors stolen on a trip to Houston. Straight piped for now. It actually runs fine without it. But I'll fix that next. It's slowly coming along.

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Just got to look at it in the driveway, while installing an updated HVAC System in the '02 FJ100! But the good news is that won't be needed again for Another 20+ years, Lord Willing! This weekend WILL Be Another Story, betcha!:rofl:
 
Don't TOUCH That, it's HOT! Wow, 4, w/You as center, it's a BBall Team! At Least they HAD a Battery! You do know they have TOOLS they'll let You Use to complete the task more efficiently than that Leatherman/Gerber/Buck tool, right? (I'm a leatherman guy, & yes, it's Always on me when not naked, But.....) Perhaps it's time for a small emergency tool kit? What caused the Battery to take a crap on Your afternoon?
 
Don't TOUCH That, it's HOT! Wow, 4, w/You as center, it's a BBall Team! At Least they HAD a Battery! You do know they have TOOLS they'll let You Use to complete the task more efficiently than that Leatherman/Gerber/Buck tool, right? (I'm a leatherman guy, & yes, it's Always on me when not naked, But.....) Perhaps it's time for a small emergency tool kit? What caused the Battery to take a crap on Your afternoon?
Lol, I have three older ones too. I’ve got a basketball team if we ever played sports. I’m just grateful they had a battery that would work for what I wanted. I had all the right wrenches and stuff except for the terminal was a little too tight, had to improvise with my sons plethora of Leatherman/ utility tools that he has stored in his door pocket. Between he and I we’ve got quite the emergency tool kit at all times lol.
I’m not 100% sure why the battery died like it did, I was doing some electrical work trying to put new battery terminals to allow for the winch, auxiliary transmission cooler fan and the light bar. But ran into issues with the Amazon crap terminal expanders and had to go back to a more traditional battery terminal set up. So it was either the drain on the battery while it was disconnected or me testing the winch for the first time. I had the truck on so that shouldn’t have been an issue but for some reason it toasted the cold cranking amps .
 
You Really need a High Output Alternator And a 2nd Battery for a serious winch? Those LED off road lights aren't a serious load, but the amp draw on winches is Fierce! Wish I had a nickel for every jump needed by folks who thought just leaving the engine Idling was sufficient charging while winching out somebody else or themselves, then running back up 200' of cable? Especially where & when it's "Cold"? BTDT, & another thread I read earlier, I think in this forum, re: "JEGS, drop in battery tray & connections for Sequoias" where You still have to make up cables but adding 2nd batt. isn't a big deal. We have 2 8D's under/in bottom of ventilated tool box in bed(Tundra), & 2nd Type 27 on LC & High Output ALT is a Must. Isolator/switch is advised as well? You can kill a battery, multiple cells dead as doornails, when doing these connections, accidental contacts, etc. It does look like You got Your money's worth out of the original, if that's an '08? Batteries here (FL) are living on borrowed time after 3-4 yrs, swear.
 
Lol, I have three older ones too. I’ve got a basketball team if we ever played sports. I’m just grateful they had a battery that would work for what I wanted. I had all the right wrenches and stuff except for the terminal was a little too tight, had to improvise with my sons plethora of Leatherman/ utility tools that he has stored in his door pocket. Between he and I we’ve got quite the emergency tool kit at all times lol.
I’m not 100% sure why the battery died like it did, I was doing some electrical work trying to put new battery terminals to allow for the winch, auxiliary transmission cooler fan and the light bar. But ran into issues with the Amazon crap terminal expanders and had to go back to a more traditional battery terminal set up. So it was either the drain on the battery while it was disconnected or me testing the winch for the first time. I had the truck on so that shouldn’t have been an issue but for some reason it toasted the cold cranking amps .
You Really need a High Output Alternator And a 2nd Battery for a serious winch? Those LED off road lights aren't a serious load, but the amp draw on winches is Fierce! Wish I had a nickel for every jump needed by folks who thought just leaving the engine Idling was sufficient charging while winching out somebody else or themselves, then running back up 200' of cable? Especially where & when it's "Cold"? BTDT, & another thread I read earlier, I think in this forum, re: "JEGS, drop in battery tray & connections for Sequoias" where You still have to make up cables but adding 2nd batt. isn't a big deal. We have 2 8D's under/in bottom of ventilated tool box in bed(Tundra), & 2nd Type 27 on LC & High Output ALT is a Must. Isolator/switch is advised as well? You can kill a battery, multiple cells dead as doornails, when doing these connections, accidental contacts, etc. It does look like You got Your money's worth out of the original, if that's an '08? Batteries here (FL) are living on borrowed time after 3-4 yrs, swear.
Dude, awesome piece of knowledge on the JEGS drop in battery tray! That’s good to know! I’ve been wanting to get another battery etc. what sort of isolator should I use though? It seemed like there was a lot of cheap Chinese crap or super expensive ridiculous overkill things. I don’t winch very often, in fact it’s mostly just extra insurance if I ever get stuck so I don’t anticipate using it more than once or twice a year if ever honestly. But I want to be able to run it correctly when and if I need it.
 
Dude, awesome piece of knowledge on the JEGS drop in battery tray! That’s good to know! I’ve been wanting to get another battery etc. what sort of isolator should I use though? It seemed like there was a lot of cheap Chinese crap or super expensive ridiculous overkill things. I don’t winch very often, in fact it’s mostly just extra insurance if I ever get stuck so I don’t anticipate using it more than once or twice a year if ever honestly. But I want to be able to run it correctly when and if I need it.
You're gonna laugh (Everybody else has) but I used MARINE BATTERY SWITCHES....pop it from bank 1 to 2 regularly, and if winching, or jumping (I've jumped off Pinzgauers, Unimogs & Deuce & a Half's, Even a 20 ton Wrecker w/dead batteries) w/this setup. just switch to 'both/all'. You can run a 12k lb warn for 8-10 min. and be fine (that'll KILL STONE DEAD, most other single configuration batteries where somebody isn't sitting in the drivers seat pegging 2500rpms to keep the std alt. maxing the 90amp output, & sometimes even Then) & learned the isolator trick from 12v specialists. Starting battery, house batteries, keep 'em separate unless You need it "ALL", then go for it. A marine battery selector switch (located under hood, close to 2nd battery (saves on long copper runs....they aren't cheap these days) is Much Cheaper and just as efficient as the pricey fancy isolators. Just be sure to insolate/isolate behind the back where mounting (I used RV Roof Repair Tape, it's thicker than shower pan liner and removes any chance of 'grounding' from back side where all connections are). West Marine is probably the most expensive source, any marine surplus store or boatersland.com is probably most reasonable. I have 2 'house' batteries hooked up to a 3kw inverter in bed of a work truck & have never needed to lug a 'generator' to most work sites (that's in/on an '00 Dodge 2500 4wd w/Reading Utility Bed). Been rigging sailboats and doing construction work (as well as twisting wrenches) life long & i'm no 'whipper snapper'. I thought 'why would I spend all this money when something else I see every day will do the same thing?' I've even seen (Smarter folks than me) people do the whole setup, then POUR EPOXY in the back side & let it set 24 hrs, 'upside down' to accomplish the same 'insulating' process, then flip over & screw to the firewall. It's badazzed when done. Wish I had the truck here now (it's at shop 24mi away), or I'd shoot You pics. It's like a turbo, or better yet, Nitrus For Your 12V System! Don't 'reinvent the wheel' or pay somebody else to do it, or buy chinese crap. Somebody else already went there and did that, 100+ yrs ago! HTH?, -Mick
 
The ol' girl got some 100 octane nonethanol and some sweet new Mobil 1. All the while did the shoe dance with the KO2s from front to back to cross and back to eliminate the two-year-old 10k mile shakes that seemed to have developed. Poor discount tire techs. I had to buy some chick fila for all that tire moving and balancing.

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The ol' girl got some 100 octane nonethanol and some sweet new Mobil 1. All the while did the shoe dance with the KO2s from front to back to cross and back to eliminate the two-year-old 10k mile shakes that seemed to have developed. Poor discount tire techs. I had to buy some chick fila for all that tire moving and balancing.

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Pretty. Pretty Wheels! Mmmmm!
 
Pretty. Pretty Wheels! Mmmmm!
Thanks! They are the cheapest Vision 17"s discount had. Haha My OEM 16" awesomeness decided to break apart on I-285 and it's awesome potholes that swallow semi-trucks so I thought it the best move. BFGs rub very slightly at full lock on the inner frame but allegedly the Vision wheels are near stock offset. Running 265/70/17.
 
Thanks! They are the cheapest Vision 17"s discount had. Haha My OEM 16" awesomeness decided to break apart on I-285 and it's awesome potholes that swallow semi-trucks so I thought it the best move. BFGs rub very slightly at full lock on the inner frame but allegedly the Vision wheels are near stock offset. Running 265/70/17.
Maybe check for some backside/offset spacers? Seems like 1/4-1/2" would be all You'd need? Let's face it, whether fender walls, tire sidewalls or Monkeypox...rubbing 'together' is not a good long term thing? Man I agree, the last time on I285 was in August Bringing our FJ100 Back from 'up North' after purchase...the truck did fine, but everybody else was getting bounced all over the place. Hit a couple pot holes that I swear were bigger than the factory '16's w/also 265/70's! If I hadn't been buckled in, I'd have gotten a CONCUSSION off the roof! Even belted my hat got squashed on the noggen tighter! I said out loud (driving alone) "Holy Sh*T! Now THAT was a HOLE!" It's pretty sad when ATL's Roads make PA's Seem Great?!! :steer:
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