What did you do with your truck this week? (2 Viewers)

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Also fabbed up some brackets for the solar panel
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Helped a buddy take his Cherokee from 2WD to 4WD over the past couple of months. Today was the first shakedown at Uwharrie.

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I posted in the 100 forum yesterday about what I thought was a rear main leak. It seemed to be dripping faster than oil so I put a pan underneath and checked it again this morning. It's coolant. How am I leaking coolant right here? What am I missing and/or not checking? Where am I not looking? I can't see anything wet other than right where the engine and trans meet. Why would I have a coolant leak right there?
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I posted in the 100 forum yesterday about what I thought was a rear main leak. It seemed to be dripping faster than oil so I put a pan underneath and checked it again this morning. It's coolant. How am I leaking coolant right here? What am I missing and/or not checking? Where am I not looking? I can't see anything wet other than right where the engine and trans meet. Why would I have a coolant leak right there?
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probably the “heater T’s” near the firewall. They’re plastic and deteriorate over time. If they’re leaking, they’ll crumble when you try to change them.
 
I replaced the Ts a few weeks ago. I think my problem may be that I didn’t replace the hoses and clamps At the same time. I just put new Ts in the old. They’re probably not sealing. I’ll look more closely. I would much rather put on a couple new hoses than what I was thinking originally.
 
I replaced the Ts a few weeks ago. I think my problem may be that I didn’t replace the hoses and clamps At the same time. I just put new Ts in the old. They’re probably not sealing. I’ll look more closely. I would much rather put on a couple new hoses than what I was thinking originally.

my guess would be the clamps
 
Swapped out both of the front oxygen sensors despite the fact the Bank 2 one was the only one throwing a code. Hopefully this will result in better mileage as well as get the pesky code off the Scangauge. Now if I only had time to replace the solenoids in the transmission to get rid of my other persistent code . . .
 
Finally has some time and removed the 3rd row seats put down some dynomat, and made a base plate off of a goose gears design. Time to coat in bed liner
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Replaced spark plugs. These been in there a while. Truck was still running just fine.

Of course when you fix one thing it can compound quickly. Cylinder 6 plug is right under the ol’ heater valve. Ended up breaking the outlet side. It needed replacing anyways.
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Replaced spark plugs. These been in there a while. Truck was still running just fine.

Of course when you fix one thing it can compound quickly. Cylinder 6 plug is right under the ol’ heater valve. Ended up breaking the outlet side. It needed replacing anyways.
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You could use a shovel to measure that gap.

Is the radiator the same brown color im guessing the heater valve is? I had to go through mine when I got it just to head off imminent failure from brown plastic. PHH, TB hoses, valve, radiator, radiator hoses, thermostat, and belts got swapped in an afternoon of profanity and beer.

Don't pay more than $92 for the valve. 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser 4.5L A/T Hvac heater control valve. Air, water, conditioning - 8724060170 | Toyota, Greenville SC - https://parts.toyotaofgreenville.com/p/Toyota_1997_Land-Cruiser-45L-AT/HVAC-Heater-Control-Valve/63523224/8724060170.html
 
You could use a shovel to measure that gap.

Is the radiator the same brown color im guessing the heater valve is? I had to go through mine when I got it just to head off imminent failure from brown plastic. PHH, TB hoses, valve, radiator, radiator hoses, thermostat, and belts got swapped in an afternoon of profanity and beer.

Don't pay more than $92 for the valve. 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser 4.5L A/T Hvac heater control valve. Air, water, conditioning - 8724060170 | Toyota, Greenville SC - https://parts.toyotaofgreenville.com/p/Toyota_1997_Land-Cruiser-45L-AT/HVAC-Heater-Control-Valve/63523224/8724060170.html

it being my first time, I was a little afraid I would mess it up so I just went with an Autozone valve in case I buggered it up.
I figure get the hang of it then put in the OEM one day I have some spare time. I’ll keep the autozone around for a backup. Put on some new gates yellow stripe 5/8” hose from NAPA too.

Radiator is new. PO or PPO put it in. Looks good.

I dumped the coolant today. Filled with distilled water and flushing a couple more times this evening. Will do final radiator dump, attempt the PHH, change thermostat and some gaskets, and fill with the Yoter Red. Cooling system should be good for a while.

thanks for a checklist of sorts. Hoping to stay on the right track to get this thing baselined.

also, yes Toyota of Greenville online parts order is the way to go. Been using them for all my parts orders. The website can be a little finicky for searching but I cross reference with other sites and usually get what I am supposed to.
 

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