What did you do on your 70 series today? (28 Viewers)

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nonstopbike said:
Great inspo here! Nice re-purpose of those barn bags, and killer bumper sticker to boot.

Did you make the RH barndoor stove flip-down also?
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Ah cheers! Yeah, that bumper sticker is great. I get so many compliments on it:

shop.hotcactus.la

Cryptobiotic Soil Crusts Sticker

High quality, silkscreened vinyl sticker. Made in the USA
shop.hotcactus.la shop.hotcactus.la

Nah, that's a Front Runner table. It's great once you line the rattly parts with felt. I actually need to cut some 3/8" birch to replace the s*** aluminum door card. and take advantage of the door cavity with some sort of hot sauce cubby. hah.

I went out on Sunday and coated the wood with a mixture of beeswax, linseed (non-food grade), and citrus. The local hardwood supplier sells it in a jar. Three coats and it's nice and dry. Best of all, no toxic fumes and it smells like surf wax. It won't be as durable as poly but it'll have a cushion over it and I can always reapply when I clean.

EuPGqZlUYAAYtuk.jpeg
 
Bogan said:
Ah cheers! Yeah, that bumper sticker is great. I get so many compliments on it:

shop.hotcactus.la

Cryptobiotic Soil Crusts Sticker

High quality, silkscreened vinyl sticker. Made in the USA
shop.hotcactus.la shop.hotcactus.la

Nah, that's a Front Runner table. It's great once you line the rattly parts with felt. I actually need to cut some 3/8" birch to replace the s*** aluminum door card. and take advantage of the door cavity with some sort of hot sauce cubby. hah.

I went out on Sunday and coated the wood with a mixture of beeswax, linseed (non-food grade), and citrus. The local hardwood supplier sells it in a jar. Three coats and it's nice and dry. Best of all, no toxic fumes and it smells like surf wax. It won't be as durable as poly but it'll have a cushion over it and I can always reapply when I clean.

View attachment 2587417
Click to expand...
Righto! Order placed.

Of course, the cactus store. Had a GF back in college who was a Ranger at Arches NP who learned me real good about the stuff. Geology brought us together, me being an idiot took us apart.

Rocks are rad. end of story.
 
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New led headlights came in today. They were sold for classic Chevy trucks so they don't have the goofy Halo LED running light or bug eye look. They actually look really nice. The lens is clear but the reflector has sort of a fresnel shape. Old headlights gotten muddy water inside and were dim. The new lights make a huge difference. Very bright.

IMG_20210216_225532.jpg


IMG_20210216_223428.jpg


IMG_20210216_223502.jpg
 
RamseyTroopy said:
SOLD! Where'd ya source those?
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www.ebay.com

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They are really nice. They are supposedly 10-30V. If you search with 24V as a requirement you don't get all the choices. I initially wanted the new round LED lights you find on a LMTV or HMMWV, but couldn't find them at a good price. These look alot better, much more old style original and very bright. To remove the ring that holds the headlight, I removed the headlight assembly by unscrewing the adjustment screws and then unhooking the spring. Spray the old rusted degraded retainer ring screws with wd40 and grip them with vice grips on the back side to break them free. If you strip them out just resecure the retainer ring with a appropriate sheet metal or wood screw and trim off the excess so as not to limit adjustment................I have a BMW X5 with wonderfully bright lights, and these are even better.
 
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My BJ73 has a unique problem that the rusted out fold down windshield frame was repaired by installing a flat piece of sheat metal spot welded and riveted with heavy rivets accross the botom so it no longer folds and filled with large amounts of bondo. They made it look nice to sell it, but 1-2 years later off road bouncing/flexing has caused some bondo to crack and some rust is bubbling out. The FRP is shaking and squeaking more than last year. Not ready to replace the windshield frame yet. I'm not interested in taking the top off at this point. Today I engaged in grinding out bubbling bondo with rust under and treating with corroseal. I will refill with a mutch harder polyester risin "kitty hair" filler.
I lifted and reinstalled the FRP top in semi-permanent method with silicone RTV to glue it down all around to eliminate squeaks and lessen windshield frame flex. Will report and pic after test driving.
 
@coldtaco .... Your truck was in the “white stuff” long before it reached Alaska. 😀
2039F9FE-A6A6-443F-8AD5-9E590A9F9467.jpeg
 
robmobile73 said:
My BJ73 has a unique problem that the rusted out fold down windshield frame was repaired by installing a flat piece of sheat metal spot welded and riveted with heavy rivets accross the botom so it no longer folds and filled with large amounts of bondo. They made it look nice to sell it, but 1-2 years later off road bouncing/flexing has caused some bondo to crack and some rust is bubbling out. The FRP is shaking and squeaking more than last year. Not ready to replace the windshield frame yet. I'm not interested in taking the top off at this point. Today I engaged in grinding out bubbling bondo with rust under and treating with corroseal. I will refill with a mutch harder polyester risin "kitty hair" filler.
I lifted and reinstalled the FRP top in semi-permanent method with silicone RTV to glue it down all around to eliminate squeaks and lessen windshield frame flex. Will report and pic after test driving.
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Test drove the BJ73 today after glueing the FRP top down with Silicone RTV. WOW did it help!! No squeaking, banging or shaking of the top at all. Alot of wind/road noise from the corners of the windshield is also gone. It makes it seem like I'm driving a much newer/tighter/solid vehicle. The body/interior noise on this 89 BJ73 on a potholed gravel road is now quieter than my 2003' tundra (engine noise aside). I recomend this to anyone with a FRP top who doesn't plan on taking it on and off every year.
I had alot of squeaking and some banging on bumpy roads from the top shaking around. I used the $7.50 a caulking gun tube of GE 15 year high adhesive black silicone. It took 2 tubes to go all the way around the top with 2 beads and extra in some places. I set the top on the silicone and let it cure for 1 hour before I tightened the bolts so It wouldn't all squeeze out. I also replaced 1 missing bolt on each side in the rear. The only noise I have now is a little rattle with the troop seat and back doors.
 
Bogan said:
The OD 75 Ute is a looker!
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Yep, you don’t see many with the tray back. Then again you don’t see many, period. 😊
I don’t know if we have the highest concentration of 70 Series in the Southeast but we do have 7 that I know of within a 40 mile radius. 😊
 
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Exercised the electric hub locks and low range in a parking lot:
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peterb said:
Wow, that looks great! How did you clean it, dishwasher?
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No, but now that you say it, that's a really good idea - wish I would have tried that first. I would try it on one of the small pieces fist, since these are NLA, and you never know. Mine are already done, so I nominate you as the guinea pig for trying this ;).

I soaked them in a diluted bath of simple green overnight, used a microfiber towel to scrub them, then finished it up with 303. I'll admit, it was a little more labor intensive than I would have preferred, but that was the only thing I found that got deep enough into those little grooves in the texture, and I wanted them looking brand new.
 
The original formula of Westley’s Bleche White would have dealt with that crud quickly.
With the current formula or dilution strength, probably not.
 
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