What are folks doing for dashcams? Wiring, models, LTE, etc (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 24, 2023
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Starting to see repo trucks everywhere... I am predicting that there are going to be tons of insurance scam style accidents from people deeply upside down on car loans. I am picking up a 2020 HE in a couple days and am already researching dash cams. I would prefer one that has LTE.

I bought a dashcamx for my wife's highlander, it integrates into the mirror housing. Looks great but doesn't have LTE. Am now leaning towards blackvue. Where are people tying into 12v constant and 12 acc? Any tips for running wiring to the rear for 2 channel rearview camera? Or I might just get a second cam for rear view, try and tap into 12v constant/acc from the rear somewhere.
 
Pending on how much your camera will draw I would wire it directly to the battery if you drive on a normal base.
On the right side of the firefall you will find a plug where you can pull a cable to the passenger area.
Cables can easily be pulled to the back. Just pull of the plastic step covers and you will find a nice cable tray.
And I may have to ask about this scam. So people will force crashes and stuff like to get the insurance money to get out of their loan of the car?
Why loan a car if you can’t afford it?
 
Starting to see repo trucks everywhere... I am predicting that there are going to be tons of insurance scam style accidents from people deeply upside down on car loans. I am picking up a 2020 HE in a couple days and am already researching dash cams. I would prefer one that has LTE.

I bought a dashcamx for my wife's highlander, it integrates into the mirror housing. Looks great but doesn't have LTE. Am now leaning towards blackvue. Where are people tying into 12v constant and 12 acc? Any tips for running wiring to the rear for 2 channel rearview camera? Or I might just get a second cam for rear view, try and tap into 12v constant/acc from the rear somewhere.
I recommend you rip out or delete all the telescreen options on your vehicle.

Instead, keep your damed eyes on the road, and drive like YOU were actually involved (which you should be) in the equation of controlling a couple of tons of steel moving down a highway at 150 feet per second surrounded by many innocent bystanders.

If you want suicide, OK. Just do not take out a van full of children with you.

Savvy?

Jim
 
Pending on how much your camera will draw I would wire it directly to the battery if you drive on a normal base.
On the right side of the firefall you will find a plug where you can pull a cable to the passenger area.
Cables can easily be pulled to the back. Just pull of the plastic step covers and you will find a nice cable tray.
And I may have to ask about this scam. So people will force crashes and stuff like to get the insurance money to get out of their loan of the car?
Why loan a car if you can’t afford it?

Cameras are typically super low amperage.

My wife already had a situation last year where she was stopped, the person in front of her threw it in reverse and smashed into her brand new '22 highlander. Then jumped out screaming that my wife rear ended her and she has neck pain. Thankfully a police officer heard my wife honking, saw the whole thing. I ordered dash cams for all of our vehicles that literal same day. Had there not been a cop there, who knows what that girl would've claimed against our insurance.

This scam was common during the 07-08 recession. Basically people who are upside down on their car. On the highway, going 55, they change lanes in front of you and slam on the brakes. Their car is totalled and paid off by your insurer, possible injury payout, etc. Desperate people/desperate measures. They historically focused on 18 wheelers due to higher insurance limits, although now almost all big trucks have dashcams.

The covid used car market is far FAR worse than 07-08. Right now, tons of people are driving around in $15k cars that they paid $25k, owe $24k, on 15%+ interest 7 year loans. They have two options - it gets repo'd, sold at auction for $10k, finance co chases them for the $14k balance. Or they slam on the brakes and get a paycheck. I have installed dashcams in all of our vehicles.
 
Cameras are typically super low amperage.

My wife already had a situation last year where she was stopped, the person in front of her threw it in reverse and smashed into her brand new '22 highlander. Then jumped out screaming that my wife rear ended her and she has neck pain. Thankfully a police officer heard my wife honking, saw the whole thing. I ordered dash cams for all of our vehicles that literal same day. Had there not been a cop there, who knows what that girl would've claimed against our insurance.

This scam was common during the 07-08 recession. Basically people who are upside down on their car. On the highway, going 55, they change lanes in front of you and slam on the brakes. Their car is totalled and paid off by your insurer, possible injury payout, etc. Desperate people/desperate measures. They historically focused on 18 wheelers due to higher insurance limits, although now almost all big trucks have dashcams.

The covid used car market is far FAR worse than 07-08. Right now, tons of people are driving around in $15k cars that they paid $25k, owe $24k, on 15%+ interest 7 year loans. They have two options - it gets repo'd, sold at auction for $10k, finance co chases them for the $14k balance. Or they slam on the brakes and get a paycheck. I have installed dashcams in all of our vehicles.
Oh wow in that case it definitely makes sense.
Yeah this whole thing didn’t hit that intense here because we Germans generally have a certain aversion to loans. I mean, yes, cars are bought on loans here too, but in the vast majority of cases the car is bought outright. If I can't afford it, I just have to buy a smaller or older car.


So yeah if the amperage is low I would directly pull a wire. Safest way to not fidle up some electrical systems and stuff like that.
 
I recommend you rip out or delete all the telescreen options on your vehicle.

Instead, keep your damed eyes on the road, and drive like YOU were actually involved (which you should be) in the equation of controlling a couple of tons of steel moving down a highway at 150 feet per second surrounded by many innocent bystanders.

If you want suicide, OK. Just do not take out a van full of children with you.

Savvy?

Jim

What
 
I recommend you rip out or delete all the telescreen options on your vehicle.

Instead, keep your damed eyes on the road, and drive like YOU were actually involved (which you should be) in the equation of controlling a couple of tons of steel moving down a highway at 150 feet per second surrounded by many innocent bystanders.

If you want suicide, OK. Just do not take out a van full of children with you.

Savvy?

Jim
Dashcams have nothing to do with something else to look at while driving. They simply record what's going in front in a rolling window of time and can be played back later on a computer or smart device if anything bad happens.
 
I recommend you rip out or delete all the telescreen options on your vehicle.

Instead, keep your damed eyes on the road, and drive like YOU were actually involved (which you should be) in the equation of controlling a couple of tons of steel moving down a highway at 150 feet per second surrounded by many innocent bystanders.

If you want suicide, OK. Just do not take out a van full of children with you.

Savvy?

Jim
Let me introduce you to the world of insurance scams Jim...

 
I recommend you rip out or delete all the telescreen options on your vehicle.

Instead, keep your damed eyes on the road, and drive like YOU were actually involved (which you should be) in the equation of controlling a couple of tons of steel moving down a highway at 150 feet per second surrounded by many innocent bystanders.

If you want suicide, OK. Just do not take out a van full of children with you.

Savvy?

Jim
Hey Jimbo

150 ft/sec is 102 mph. When did he say he was ever driving that fast?

Dude...
 
Just realized that my earlier post wasn't particularly helpful regarding camera types/brands.

We have Thinkware F800 F/R in all three of our vehicles - the videos have been conclusive evidence in three accidents so far.

We chose Thinkware for the image clarity - especially in low light conditions.

One caveat - the supplied SD card is rather small. Either upgrade to a larger or be sure to unplug the camera power shortly after an accident to preserve the video from being overwritten.
 
Where are people tying into 12v constant and 12 acc? Any tips for running wiring to the rear for 2 channel rearview camera? Or I might just get a second cam for rear view, try and tap into 12v constant/acc from the rear somewhere.

There are two major power distribution points in the interior to pull from. Using a add-a-fuse kits, it's easy to add an interior circuit.

The driver footwell has a fuse box that is accessory power switched.

The passenger footwell has a fuse box that is always on.

Pretty simple to use an add-a-fuse and pull wire up along the a-pillar (remove grab handles), tuck in the headliner to the rearview area. Make sure to run the wire under the side curtain airbag.

Use a camera that is multi-channel so you're not runing independent front/rear dashcams. It'll be powered at the front camera and will have a rear camera wire to run in the headliner to the rear.
 
Starting to see repo trucks everywhere... I am predicting that there are going to be tons of insurance scam style accidents from people deeply upside down on car loans. I am picking up a 2020 HE in a couple days and am already researching dash cams. I would prefer one that has LTE.

I bought a dashcamx for my wife's highlander, it integrates into the mirror housing. Looks great but doesn't have LTE. Am now leaning towards blackvue. Where are people tying into 12v constant and 12 acc? Any tips for running wiring to the rear for 2 channel rearview camera? Or I might just get a second cam for rear view, try and tap into 12v constant/acc from the rear somewhere.
I bought three DR970X-2 channel wifi versions. I am NOT impressed with bLAckVIeW or their customer "support" regarding multiple issues I have had. This includes having to send one camera off due to hardware issues not resolved by updating, software patches, etc. The sending off wouldn't be a big deal, but the place I sent it to (Brooklyn IIRC) wanted proof of shipping before they sent me a replacement. Isn't the point of a dashcam to have a functional recording of events? Tough to do without the camera!

I would NOT recommend them in any capacity and will not be buying another of their product. Check the thread linked above for further details.
 
Over the years I have tried a few different dash cameras. I am still on the hunt for a great one. Thought I found a decent one, but it will eat memory cars every 6-7 months. Will say it cant write to them anymore, despite the overwrite feature or formatting the card. It wont even format once that happens. Happened twice now on micro SD cards.

This is the SD card eater - Amazon product ASIN B07SRQH4R7
The other versions were ones that went over the mirror completely. I liked that version, one I had had two cameras. One to spin into the cab, or to get a full 180 degree view forward. Id leave it forward and spin it everytime I got pulled over. Those sadly had top feed power options and would cause interference with our headliner when adjusting to the normal view of the rearview. Making it useless.

Thinking those lil garmin ones stuck around be nice?
 
Over the years I have tried a few different dash cameras. I am still on the hunt for a great one. Thought I found a decent one, but it will eat memory cars every 6-7 months. Will say it cant write to them anymore, despite the overwrite feature or formatting the card. It wont even format once that happens. Happened twice now on micro SD cards.

This is the SD card eater - Amazon product ASIN B07SRQH4R7
The other versions were ones that went over the mirror completely. I liked that version, one I had had two cameras. One to spin into the cab, or to get a full 180 degree view forward. Id leave it forward and spin it everytime I got pulled over. Those sadly had top feed power options and would cause interference with our headliner when adjusting to the normal view of the rearview. Making it useless.

Thinking those lil garmin ones stuck around be nice?

Curious what memory card you used? With dashcams, it's really important to use a high quality and high capacity card as they are very write intensive. Preferably a name brand endurance rated card. I've seen what you describe to other dashcams too if using a run of the mill memory card.

Viofo's are some of the best no nonsense high quality dashcams I've used. I would still be using my A129 Plus Duo if I didn't need a rear view mirror replacement type.
 
Curious what memory card you used? With dashcams, it's really important to use a high quality and high capacity card as they are very write intensive. Preferably a name brand endurance rated card. I've seen what you describe to other dashcams too if using a run of the mill memory card.

Viofo's are some of the best no nonsense high quality dashcams I've used. I would still be using my A129 Plus Duo if I didn't need a rear view mirror replacement type.
Sandisk Ultra 256GB & a Sandisk Ultra 128gb. I've used sandisk for 15yrs now in all my cameras. I have NEVER had a memory card go bad/go corrupt. Except in that camera.
 
Sandisk Ultra 256GB & a Sandisk Ultra 128gb. I've used sandisk for 15yrs now in all my cameras. I have NEVER had a memory card go bad/go corrupt. Except in that camera.

Gotcha. You're definitely using a great quality card that's hard to fault. I've destroyed at least one Sandisk in my wife's Tesla, probably from the same high intensity type use. I've swapped to an SSD type device for her car.

In my LX dashcam that has multi-channels with higher bit-rates, along with hot summers, I'm using an endurance rated card like this one:

Amazon product ASIN B07P4HBRMV
 
Gotcha. You're definitely using a great quality card that's hard to fault. I've destroyed at least one Sandisk in my wife's Tesla, probably from the same high intensity type use. I've swapped to an SSD type device for her car.

In my LX dashcam that has multi-channels with higher bit-rates, along with hot summers, I'm using an endurance rated card like this one:

Amazon product ASIN B07P4HBRMV

I'll give that a whirl. I was thinking of goin to the little Garmin. Still might get it for a rear view camera. Does yours ever get to hot in CA? Something that has been on my mind, I do have a tinted windshield and it helps big time.
 
I'll give that a whirl. I was thinking of goin to the little Garmin. Still might get it for a rear view camera. Does yours ever get to hot in CA? Something that has been on my mind, I do have a tinted windshield and it helps big time.
I actually have the garmin tandem in my Miata and am fairly content with it. I like that it does front/rear, in the Miata it’s perfect to capture almost all angles in one unit.

Complaints are, no lte. And it has a kind of wonky 5v micro usb connection. Not all cables nor all 12v socket usb plugs provide 5v. And micro usb feels ancient. Just have to test everything before permanent installing.
 

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