Weight of a bj74 frp top?

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I'll guess it at ~150 lbs with the side glass in it.

SWAG calculation.......:hillbilly:
 
It gets a lot lighter if you unbolt the steel hoop and leave that attached. Less than #100 then. I lifted mine off by myself, just
slid it back onto a shelf. I don't have pics of the top itself, or I'd post it up. At least it's not a 40 top and have a rear door
attached.
Have you ever removed it before?
 
4 bolts along the upper hoop that are under the plastic trim. 5 bolts along each side from inside the
inner panel. Here is the tricky one - The FRP badge on the outside behind the doors has to be pried off, and there is
a bolt there! Also 4 along the underside of the windshield frame. The two tough ones are in each corner at the
front windshield frame that are bolts and they are on top of the steel bracket, really small area. small hands help here.
I think that is all. I'm reciting from memory. Oh, the obvious two in the rear corners on top.
I pulled the fiberglass off separate and left the hoop on for bikini top support.
 
20 bolts all together. 4 above windscreen frame, 4 inside hoop/roll bar, 1 each under the FRP badges, 8 up under the rear quarter panels (4 to a side), one in each rear corner (L brackets).
FRP badge has 3 plastic posts that have a steel "grabber" wrapped around them. Depending on the level of rust, it may be easy or hard to remove them.

If you use bars or beams that run through the windows of BJ74 keep in mind that much of the weight is in the forward location.

I hoisted mine off yesterday and it was not easy to get straps adjusted. I am going to get a Harbor Freight engine leveler and try a different system. The leveler will keep the straps spread correctly and will allow for asymmetric weight load.
2006421152213483.jpg
 
So it turns out the top is pretty light. I picked up a double set of 100lb bicycle lifts from amazon for $25. Worked like a charm. I'll post pics tomorrow.

Separate question. Is there some kind of trim that is available to put down after the top is removed? The "bed" area of the truck has all the holes
 
@cruiserpilot Thanks for posting those pics.

Sad story: I took my top off a few months ago to have it painted. Got it back from the paint shop a few weeks ago and just set it in place. Went to secure it and couldn't find the bolts and hardware. Spent 4hrs tearing the garage apart and no luck.....d@mn!!!! I ran out of places to look so will contact @beno to hopefully scrouge up all the bits and pieces for me.
 
And I thought removing the soft top was a PITA. Looks like that either way and much more hardware and weather-stripping removal involved with FRP removal process.
 
Its not that difficult. Hard to install without the hardware, of course ;)

There are 4 bolts using 10 mm wrench along the window frame upwards
4 bolts using 10 mm wrench under the roll bar upwards
2 bolts using 12 mm wrench under the FRP emblem
4 bolts using 10 mm wrench under the box rails upwards
2 bolts each back corner using 12 mm wrench downwards.

These directions are with the understanding you are not yet removing the steel structure roll bar and the
support brackets along the top of the door. I don't recommend removing the whole FRP top as one unit.
The 3 bolts in the front corners by the window frame get tricky and you have to sort of start them all, get them
squared up, then tighten. There is also a tricky bastard 10 mm bolt on the top corner of the window frame that
holds the over door bracket and it's very important that you reattach this bracket with care so you don't mess up
the rubber gaskets. They are quite specific as to how they attach and if you get one on the wrong side it will
leak, and damage the rubber gasket. They are expensive and a bugger to replace.

All this being said, I've done over 6 removals and it's something I can do alone without cranes or lifts. I do use a
small scaffold for the FRP top to move it around. I will soon have a permanent shelf in my shed for the FRP top
for summer so I can go to convertible mode in 15 min.
 
This how I took a roof from one to another. Honestly, the fiberglass part of the roof is the same as any truck cap.
It balances well and I just walk it back onto the scaffold. My intention is to get another of these scaffolds and then make it wide enough to go right over the box, then I can just roll it right over, block the roof and roll the scaffold out.

IMG_1510.webp
IMG_1511.webp
 
Looks really cool how you set up the process of FRP removal. Unfortunately I don't have the space for FRP storage. :(

Knowing what I know now, I am perfectly fine with just rolling up the flaps on the side of my soft top and stopping there. (Sorry for being so off topic...)

IMG_1955_zpsrcqc6ncd.jpg
 
This how I took a roof from one to another. Honestly, the fiberglass part of the roof is the same as any truck cap.
It balances well and I just walk it back onto the scaffold. My intention is to get another of these scaffolds and then make it wide enough to go right over the box, then I can just roll it right over, block the roof and roll the scaffold out.

View attachment 1405460 View attachment 1405461

Cruiserpilot, do you lift the top up off the body on your back or something?
How do you get it moved back to the scaffold without tearing up the gasket and paint?

Your method looks tons easier than my hoist.
 
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