Weak Spark...won't start! (1 Viewer)

[Ron B]

Here is another odd thing about my cruiser... it is a 1973 with the original F engine. I can't find anywhere in the schematic a wire running from the coil+ to a electric choke(?) on the carb. I had experimented disconnecting this in the past and the cruiser won't start, but now I am wondering what it is, since I also have a manual choke. Any ideas?

I am really at a loss here. Any help would be great.

Sounds like your describing your fuel shut off. Needs 12v on it when the ignition is on.

 

[IOKRU2]

Well, my saga continues. No engine start yet. I have grounded the distributor body and grounded the body to the advance plate inside. Replaced condensor (with aftermarket). Replaced coil (with aftermarket). I was only getting 10 volts at the coil+ when I would turn the switch on and crank over, only 3.5 volts on the - side of the coil when cranking over, and according to my multimeter about 30 volts out of the coil's HV when cranking over. I put a direct line from the battery + to the coil + to get direct contact, but I noticed that when cranking over the engine the battery voltage dropped to about 10 volts as well. So, I hooked up jumper cables from another car and was then getting about 13 volts at the battery +. Still no start... The spark comming out of the coil and the plugs is still orange... it looks week to me - should be a crackling blue. I am at a loss... I have new coil coming in from Spector, OEM cap, rotor and points...

Am I missing something here? Can you guys think of anything I could be missing? Thanks in advance.

 

[Pin_Head]

As long as the coil is making a spark, chances are 99% it is fine. You have confirmed this with a new coil that gives the same results. To run you need:

1. spark (which you have) on time (which you don't know is fine?)
2. Fuel.
3. Compression.

 

[IOKRU2]

I hear you - the fundamentals. Spark may be off... fuel may not be there... compression should be good because it was a strong runner before this happened. I will keep knocking away and let you all know what I find out. Sooner or later its going to happen - just not fun going through it all.

 

[Pin_Head]

Start a new thread and be as specific with the details of the problem as possible. What changed between when it ran well and now?

 

[bsmith123]

spark

just in case ---pour little gas in the cab and make sure you are getting fuel as well

could ou have disturbed the timing in the process of messing with the the distrib

 

[stuckinnz]

Happy;


If, and when, u disassemble the right front fender from your FJ40, u will see rust and/or corrosion on the joints and nut and bolts. Older FJ40's (pre '74) had the coil mounted on the block (the holes are still there) and the ground for the coil and continuity thru the distributor was self evident.


...

Oh fu#$ someone must of grounded out the doors/rear panels/ floor/rear quaters/ both front fenders and even the fiber glass roof cos they all have corroded bolts and orange rot!!!!!!!

 

[IOKRU2]

Hi all - Thanks for the advice. I will move on to verifing gas is being delivered at this time... but that weak spark still bothers me. Taking Pin Head's advice I have started up a new thread called "Electrical or Gas? Cruiser won't start".

 

[pds420]

Hey I am looking for a Fj40 to buy do you know anyone who has one for sale?
My e- mail pdstewart102561@msn.com
Thanks
Paul

 

[fjwagon]

I totally agree with dfmorse remarks. It seems you have to periodically clean the “tower/frame” ground. While you are doing that may want to add a ground from the frame to the starter too. Also suggest checking the insulation on the wires to and inside distributor. Silicon can be a big help here to keep stuff from arcing or grounding out. And make sure your points are not shorting out to the distributor casing. I've had this happen to me I first got my lv running.

 

[1973barnfind]

bump!
I'm having a very similar and expensive problem getting the land cruiser running again.
new: gas tank, electric fuel pump, carburetor, points, condenser, cap, rotor, plugs, coil, ballast resistor, wiring harness, and spark plugs.


think I might just set it on fire, and push the dang thing off of a cliff

 

[MyTwoToys]

I hear you 1973barnfind. I am having a tough time getting my rig running after a rebuild. I am pretty mechanically inclined but not a mechanic. Trying to find someone locally to help me out has been tough. Hang in there. It will be all the more worth it when you are done. Currently piecing my rig back together and hoping to get it running for summer. Time will tell.