VVT-i Timing Belt Mark Check - Point of No Return

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04UZJ100

04UZJ100

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Hey folks - tackling my first ever timing belt job. Going alright I suppose - harmonic balancer was stuck a good bit and I stripped my fan bracket nuts so had to cut the thing off with a sawzall (planning on replacing bracket and clutch anyway).

I am at the point where I am ready to remove tension from the belt and want to make sure I have everything lined up accordingly. This is on a 2007 100.

Attached are pictures of the left/right camps and the crank pulley Indicator/notch.

On another note - any reason I cant apply some anti seize on all the fasteners going back in? Does anybody have a screenshot of the appropriate torques?

Any guidance or support would be appreciated.

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Looks about right from the picture you shared. I have an 06, some reference picture when I did mine.
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Is there a video guide out there for the 06/07? Or does the FSM have clear instructions? Been thinking of tackling mine, but I'm a visual learner and can't find something specific to the VVTI motors.
 
The guide wont tell you what is the T mark. T mark is the position that pistons and crank gears have least amount of tension. Before you remove the timing belt you can turn to this position and it should make you job easier. but you need align timing belt based on timing mark as posted above.
 
I found the explanation in this thread to be excellent

Toyota 2UZ-FE Timing Belt Marks 4.7L

Timing Belt Kit The following thread will explain how we set up the Toyota 2UZ-FE Timing Belt marks when replacing the timing belt. The first tip is that we set the timing marks in place with the engine past/after TDC and not on TDC. This is because this engine is an interference engine and it...
www.toyoheadquarters.com
 
FYI: Only OEm Toyota/Mitsuboshi belt will last more than 10 years and above 100K miles. I once installed a Gates belt on my Corolla and it had cracks at 50K miles/8 years. Stick to OEM if you plan to go at least 10 years 100K miles. You got VVTi engine, so don't mess with cheap parts and incorrect timing. Spin the crank at least full 8-10 rotations once all done by HAND/Wrench to see any resistance.
 
nissanh said:
FYI: Only OEm Toyota/Mitsuboshi belt will last more than 10 years and above 100K miles. I once installed a Gates belt on my Corolla and it had cracks at 50K miles/8 years. Stick to OEM if you plan to go at least 10 years 100K miles. You got VVTi engine, so don't mess with cheap parts and incorrect timing. Spin the crank at least full 8-10 rotations once all done by HAND/Wrench to see any resistance.
Click to expand...
Yeah I am an OEM only fanboy. Trust me.
 
sunfic said:
The guide wont tell you what is the T mark. T mark is the position that pistons and crank gears have least amount of tension. Before you remove the timing belt you can turn to this position and it should make you job easier. but you need align timing belt based on timing mark as posted above.
Click to expand...
I aligned to the straight vertical bars (not the Tees) and the nub in the casting on the oil pump housing and crank gear.

Multiple 720 degree rotations and all is fully aligned with the hard physical marks.
 
abuck99 said:
I found the explanation in this thread to be excellent

Toyota 2UZ-FE Timing Belt Marks 4.7L

Timing Belt Kit The following thread will explain how we set up the Toyota 2UZ-FE Timing Belt marks when replacing the timing belt. The first tip is that we set the timing marks in place with the engine past/after TDC and not on TDC. This is because this engine is an interference engine and it...
www.toyoheadquarters.com
Click to expand...
That totally contradicts this video:

 
04UZJ100 said:
That totally contradicts this video:

Click to expand...

I just watched Timmy’s video (part 1) havent watch the other. The procedure from the forum link I posted seems to be pretty much in alignment with what Timmy later came to understand and I don’t see any glaring contradictions. Timmy mentioned it was his first 2UZ effort and determined later to use the T mark for the resting point for doing the timing belt change same as did the forum post. No mention anywhere in any FSM about the use of “T” as a part of the procedure- but clearly makes sense to me.

What I didnt care for in Timmy’s process is that he didnt set the harmonic balancer pulley to 0 and the cams to TDC before removing the pulley and the plastic cover.
 
abuck99 said:
I just watched Timmy’s video (part 1) havent watch the other. The procedure from the forum link I posted seems to be pretty much in alignment with what Timmy later came to understand and I don’t see any glaring contradictions. Timmy mentioned it was his first 2UZ effort and determined later to use the T mark for the resting point for doing the timing belt change same as did the forum post. No mention anywhere in any FSM about the use of “T” as a part of the procedure- but clearly makes sense to me.

What I didnt care for in Timmy’s process is that he didnt set the harmonic balancer pulley to 0 and the cams to TDC before removing the pulley and the plastic cover.
Click to expand...

Appreciate that. This is how I did it. Below are pics of the alignment of the cams. The crank pulley nub was aligned with the marking on the oil pump case.

Multiple 720 rotations and everything lines up to the vertical lines (not Ts). Nub on crank pulley/oil casing lines up too with the vertical lines every 720 too.

Harmonic balancer lines up with the 0 if installed per the above.

Did I **** this up?

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You did it correctly to the FSM (and if it runs you’re G2G).

The thread link I posted was an explanation of how the “T” marks can be utilized in conjunction with another reference point on the crank pulley guard to ensure the tension is off the cams so they stay put . This method is not explained in the FSM.
 
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abuck99 said:
You did it correctly to the FSM (and if it runs you’re G2G).

The thread link I posted was an explanation of how the “T” marks can be utilized in conjunction with another reference point on the crank pulley guard to ensure the tension is off the cams so they stay put. That process is not disclosed or explained in the FSM rather it was provided by a Toyota master tech.
Click to expand...
Got it. The DS cam wanted to move a bit inward toward the intake. I moved it back with a 19mm wrench to the “I” while installing the belt. It was really rather simple.

TBD if it runs. Waiting on hardware delivery later this week.
 
Sooo... i am doing this on an '07 LX470 (I just did TB on a 98 LC - where my TB actually broke, but non-VVTi, so I'm very familiar with the job). The FSM says set the engine at 45 degrees BEFORE TDC (BTDC), but then says to rotate to align the marks, and then rotate back 45 degrees. I'm guessing that folks have set the normal timing marks without issue though even on VVTi. It seems that rotating back prevents valves from hitting things. I'm going to follow FSM, make paint marks on old belt and cams, and transfer to new belts, and send it. And yes, this is an FSM for a 2007 LX470.

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Here's the process I use all of the time.
For both VVT-i and Non VVT-i.

Removal (Prior to Removing the Old Belt)

Using a 22mm Socket, Rotate the Crank Pulley Clockwise until:
- Cam pulleys at the "T" marks
- Crank pulley mark pointing to the nub on the plastic timing cover

Remove Crankshaft Pulley and Bolt
- Watch to make sure Crank doesn’t rotate / move
- 22mm Weighted Socket and 1/2 Medium Impact
- Gear / Pulley Puller

Note: I always remove the Radiator to give me more room...

Install

Install Timing Belt
- The arrows on the belt point forwards
- Put the driver side on first, holding it in place with a spring clamp. The mark on the belt (L-CAM) should line up with the cam mark on the pulley.
- Put the passenger side on. The mark on the belt (R-CAM) should line up with the cam mark on the pulley. Hold it in place with a spring clamp.
- Slide the belt over the crank gear
- The marks on the belt must line up with:
+ Driver side cam mark on the pulley
+ Passenger side cam mark on the pulley
+ The Divot / mark on the crank gear and the bolt hole on the crank gear

After Installing the Timing Belt Tensioner, Timing Belt Guide / Crankshaft Angle Sensor Plate, Lower Timing Belt Cover, Crankshaft Pulley and Bolt, you verify that the Timing Belt is Installed Correctly.

Rotate Crankshaft Clockwise 2 Full Rotations and Stop when the Mark on the Crankshaft Pulley Lines Up with the “0”. Confirm that the Marks on Both Camshaft Pulleys Line Up with the Vertical Bar (Not the “T”.). This Confirms the Timing is Correct.

Good luck.
Tom
 
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