Valve stem spring keepers

[middlecalf]

Wonder if dipping the clamp parts of the tool into rubber tool grip stuff (and degreasing the springs as best as possible) would help with slippage?

 

[ColoradoFJ40]

Yup! I abandoned that tool. With my tool, you can compress the spring further without those tool legs in the way. You can push the retainer down well clear of the valve stem grooves, and with thumb and forefinger hold the keepers to the valve stem below the grooves. As you release the spring, the keepers slide up and into the grooves and with further release, the retainer comes up and surrounds them. It’s simpler, way faster, and you have better feel as the parts go into their place.

My design was spur of the moment with stock on hand. Having another look at it I see how I should have done it with just two pieces of strut, one piece across the pedestal studs and one to lever off it. I could whip this tool out in 10 minutes.

View attachment 2993387

I think this could be the direction I go if I fail again tonight. How long of stock did you use for leverage? I still have my carburetor and air rail and fender on. So a few more things in the way.

 

[fjc-man]

I think this could be the direction I go if I fail again tonight. How long of stock did you use for leverage? I still have my carburetor and air rail and fender on. So a few more things in the way.

It’s easier to work from the battery side of the engine.

 

[Steamer]

Yes, I had less obstacles in the way. With the strut and accessory parts, it is like an erector set. All sorts of designs you could make. How about making the lever bar vertical so you can avoid the obstacles? I’m working on a strut project today, so I’ve got lots of scrap laying around. If you were nearby I’d knock one out for ya.

 

[ColoradoFJ40]

Yes, I had less obstacles in the way. With the strut and accessory parts, it is like an erector set. All sorts of designs you could make. How about making the lever bar vertical so you can avoid the obstacles? I’m working on a strut project today, so I’ve got lots of scrap laying around. If you were nearby I’d knock one out for ya.

View attachment 2993710

I like the looks of that design.

 

[ColoradoFJ40]

To close out this thread I thought I should post that I completed the valve stem replacement on 11 of the 12 valves. I simply couldn't get to the valve closest to the firewall.

In the end I purchased a universal valve spring compressor tool from Amazon. I was really struggling with the other two tools I purchased and spending way too much time on this project. After getting the new tool I had the job completed in 3 or 4 hours.

So here is my addition to Mud. If you have your air rail intact you can use it as the fulcrum point and it makes the job super easy. I used rope in the cylinder and that honestly took more time then actually changing out the valve stem seal.

I hope this helps the next person.

Thanks
Mark

 

[hobbes]

I need to do this soon. Thanks for the tool link. Little late, but this guy does it with zip ties. About 6 minutes into the video. Think I’ll just buy the tool…

 

[ColoradoFJ40]

I need to do this soon. Thanks for the tool link. Little late, but this guy does it with zip ties. About 6 minutes into the video. Think I’ll just buy the tool…

Yep. Tried that too. Our springs are too strong and stretch the zip ties. I was hoping that might work.

 

[hobbes]

Thanks! On the rope, did you spin the motor by hand to compress the cylinder space with the rope in it? Or did you leave the engine mostly static and just fed in rope?

 

[ColoradoFJ40]

Thanks! On the rope, did you spin the motor by hand to compress the cylinder space with the rope in it? Or did you leave the engine mostly static and just fed in rope?

You take all of the spark plugs out first. Then feed the rope into the plug hole. The thicker the diameter rope the better. Once you feed a good amount in. Like 3 or 4 ft. You can slowly rotate the engine by hand and it will raise the piston and press the rope up against the bottom of the valves. Then you can do both stem seals and repeat for the next cylinder.

 

[Malleus]

As long as your valves and rings seal, you can use compressed air to do the same thing, without having to worry about leaving anything in the cylinder after you pull the rope out.

 

[JDNs78FJ40]

Did this solve your burning oil issue? I did this same thing hoping it would fix my burning oil issue but sadly it did not. Hope it solved yours..

 

[ColoradoFJ40]

Did this solve your burning oil issue? I did this same thing hoping it would fix my burning oil issue but sadly it did not. Hope it solved yours..

Too early to tell. I hope it does. I need to take it on a long drive and see how it does.

 

[hobbes]

Mine smokes pulling away from a stop light, so I assume it’s the valve seals. Just don’t need a one day job turning into a two week job right now, so I might order the tool ahead of time. I don’t have an air rail, so I might need a different tool. Seals have been on order from Partsouq, but they’re backlogged on them.

 

[ColoradoFJ40]

Mine smokes pulling away from a stop light, so I assume it’s the valve seals. Just don’t need a one day job turning into a two week job right now, so I might order the tool ahead of time. I don’t have an air rail, so I might need a different tool. Seals have been on order from Partsouq, but they’re backlogged on them.

If you don't have an air rail I would strongly recommend a homebrew set up. I dont have a welder or much for fab skills but the studs down the middle of the block could have something mounted to them to give you leverage. I wouldn't waste your time with the smaller tools posted earlier in this thread. That what turned my project into a four week ordeal.

 

[bikersmurf]

I used an air fitting brazed into a spark plug, a compressor at 95 psi, and a ball joint pickle fork to lever down the valve springs. 30 years later some of the details are a bit vague.