- Jul 20, 2004
- Sweet, Idaho
Wonder if dipping the clamp parts of the tool into rubber tool grip stuff (and degreasing the springs as best as possible) would help with slippage?
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I think this could be the direction I go if I fail again tonight. How long of stock did you use for leverage? I still have my carburetor and air rail and fender on. So a few more things in the way.Yup! I abandoned that tool. With my tool, you can compress the spring further without those tool legs in the way. You can push the retainer down well clear of the valve stem grooves, and with thumb and forefinger hold the keepers to the valve stem below the grooves. As you release the spring, the keepers slide up and into the grooves and with further release, the retainer comes up and surrounds them. It’s simpler, way faster, and you have better feel as the parts go into their place.
My design was spur of the moment with stock on hand. Having another look at it I see how I should have done it with just two pieces of strut, one piece across the pedestal studs and one to lever off it. I could whip this tool out in 10 minutes.
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It’s easier to work from the battery side of the engine.I think this could be the direction I go if I fail again tonight. How long of stock did you use for leverage? I still have my carburetor and air rail and fender on. So a few more things in the way.
I like the looks of that design.Yes, I had less obstacles in the way. With the strut and accessory parts, it is like an erector set. All sorts of designs you could make. How about making the lever bar vertical so you can avoid the obstacles? I’m working on a strut project today, so I’ve got lots of scrap laying around. If you were nearby I’d knock one out for ya.
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I need to do this soon. Thanks for the tool link. Little late, but this guy does it with zip ties. About 6 minutes into the video. Think I’ll just buy the tool…
You take all of the spark plugs out first. Then feed the rope into the plug hole. The thicker the diameter rope the better. Once you feed a good amount in. Like 3 or 4 ft. You can slowly rotate the engine by hand and it will raise the piston and press the rope up against the bottom of the valves. Then you can do both stem seals and repeat for the next cylinder.Thanks! On the rope, did you spin the motor by hand to compress the cylinder space with the rope in it? Or did you leave the engine mostly static and just fed in rope?
Too early to tell. I hope it does. I need to take it on a long drive and see how it does.Did this solve your burning oil issue? I did this same thing hoping it would fix my burning oil issue but sadly it did not. Hope it solved yours..
If you don't have an air rail I would strongly recommend a homebrew set up. I dont have a welder or much for fab skills but the studs down the middle of the block could have something mounted to them to give you leverage. I wouldn't waste your time with the smaller tools posted earlier in this thread. That what turned my project into a four week ordeal.Mine smokes pulling away from a stop light, so I assume it’s the valve seals. Just don’t need a one day job turning into a two week job right now, so I might order the tool ahead of time. I don’t have an air rail, so I might need a different tool. Seals have been on order from Partsouq, but they’re backlogged on them.