vacumn leak

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I am getting ready to start diagnosis and repair of whatever is causing the hesitation and rough idle on my 22R.

I have 3 questions:


1. Assuming it ends up being an intake gasket leak, what is the best replacement gasket to use?

2. It is better to use 2 gaskets?

3. Is it better to intall the new gasket with our without high temp silicone sealant?
 
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sand the manifold with 400 sand paper held on a wooden block clean the mating surface in the head. I use silicone especially around the water ports. I kept the gasket for the EGR separate and install it last. I have used felpro which is cheap, but it is the sealant and the sanding that does the sealing.
 
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IMO


1. OEM

2. NO

3. If your two mating surfaces are clean and straight per the FSM, NOTHING is required except bolts. liquid sealants would only be required if the mating surfaces are not straight, and/or bolts and studs not torqued properly. its a band-aid not a solution
 
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IMO


1. OEM

2. NO

3. If your two mating surfaces are clean and straight per the FSM, NOTHING is required except bolts. liquid sealants would only be required if the mating surfaces are not straight, and/or bolts and studs not torqued properly. its a band-aid not a solution

thank you gentlemen. any second opinions on the sand paper. I'm only asking because I messed one up doing that once.
 
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..... because I messed one up doing that once.

seems like you have your answer right there. if its warped up beyond the flat spec of the fsm, it needs to be resurfaced. not with sand paper imo..unless its some trail truck that you just dont care about and dont want to put any money into.
 
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seems like you have your answer right there. if its warped up beyond the flat spec of the fsm, it needs to be resurfaced. not with sand paper imo..unless its some trail truck that you just dont care about and dont want to put any money into.

What sort of tool do you use to measure that?
 
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you need a "flat bar" (its a tool milled to be perfectly straight, not just a scrap piece of steel lol) and a feeler gauge set.

place the flat bar across your part and measure the gap beneath the bar and mating surface with feeler gauge. do in a couple locations: vertical, horizontal, both diagonals etc...the max space should be no greater than the allowable tolerance per the fsm. otherwise it needs machining.

if you cant get a hold of a flat bar then you might be able to get a good idea of how straight it is with a nice new steel rule, or maybe a good level??
 
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you need a "flat bar" (its a tool milled to be perfectly straight, not just a scrap piece of steel lol) and a feeler gauge set.

place the flat bar across your part and measure the gap beneath the bar and mating surface with feeler gauge. do in a couple locations: vertical, horizontal, both diagonals etc...the max space should be no greater than the allowable tolerance per the fsm. otherwise it needs machining.

if you cant get a hold of a flat bar then you might be able to get a good idea of how straight it is with a nice new steel rule, or maybe a good level??

ok. i get it. thanks.
 

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