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Got a code reader and I had a cylinder 6 misfire. Replaced the coil and it runs great but still needs extra cranks when warm.
Are the misfire codes gone and your CEL is off? I think you can now safely rule out spark as an issue. That leaves two other potential sources of the problem: fuel or air. I'd start checking the following in order: 1) vacuum lines, including PCV and VSV Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. ; 2) intake manifold gaskets; and 3) fuel injectors. At your mileage, any one of these, or even all of them, could be the culprit. Wouldn't be a bad idea to do a compression test either.**UPDATE**
So I was finally able to replace all of my coils (OEM) and the problem still persists. Currently the coils and the coolant temp sensor have been replaced as well as the started (about 5k ago) and the trouble starting while hot still persists. While I replaced the coils I pulled the plugs and they look good (replaced them about 12k ago with densos). I will go ahead and replace the fuel filter tomorrow because its due anyway but I am stumped as to why it starts right up while cold but struggles, but ultimately starts, while warmed up. I don't want to just chuck parts at this so any further help will be much appreciated.
9 times out of 10, this is a symptom of a) battery going bad, b) corroded/poor cable connections at battery terminals or starter, or c) starter going bad. You said you replaced the starter 15k miles ago - was that a new Denso starter, rebuilt/reman starter, or box auto store starter? Have you had your battery voltage checked when cold and warm?Cold start is easy and immediate but its the warm start that needs two or three cranks but eventually fires and runs strong
The only code I have gotten was a few weeks ago and it was cyl 6 misfire which went away with a coil pack replacement. I have a code reader and there is nothing currently. Cold start is easy and immediate but its the warm start that needs two or three cranks but eventually fires and runs strong. After the coolant temp sensor and all 8 coils replaced didn't do anything my next thought was injectors. The only thing that stumps me is why would a leaky injector start immediately after sitting overnight and not shortly after it has been running? I am no mechanic and as frustrating as this is, it is a good learning experience and I appreciate all of the input. I am also putting MAF and o2 sensor into the culprits...anyone agree with that?
He’s already replaced all coils and plugs with new OEM ones.Just replaced the coils in mine. Problem solved.
1 job.
Ahhh. I just re-read it. Yes.He’s already replaced all coils and plugs with new OEM ones.
My 2000 LC with 220K is having the exactly same problem as yours; it runs good for 15 minutes, and then rough idle at a stoplight while in D with foot on the brake. RPM is around 600 and stable. If I put the gear into N, the vibration is gone and its RPM is 700. I don't have any CEL codes or engine light yet. Have you solved out this issue?Going through the same thing with my 00 with 220k. Had rough idle at a stoplight while in D with foot on the brake and was running rough every now and then. Pulled and inspected all coils and plugs and replaced plugs. Coils looked old and most had a crack running the entire length. A couple days later cylinder 3,4,6 had misfires (assuming pulling them accelerated failure). Replaced the 3 and ran better for a couple days then started running rough again. Ordered the other 5 and will be replacing tonight. Hope it clears it up. Denso of course! Has a new starter, alternator and battery so this should do the trick. PCV is next if not.
Stab in the dark, but I have heard of the brake booster developing a vacuume leak. That will affect idle.My 2000 LC with 220K is having the exactly same problem as yours; it runs good for 15 minutes, and then rough idle at a stoplight while in D with foot on the brake. RPM is around 600 and stable. If I put the gear into N, the vibration is gone and its RPM is 700. I don't have any CEL codes or engine light yet. Have you solved out this issue?
"D" vibration is often sign a tune-up (w/spark plugs and all vacuum leaks corrected) needed. Key to a good tune: Disconnect negative post of battery first thing, do not reconnect until after MAF sensor cleaned and reconnected.My 2000 LC with 220K is having the exactly same problem as yours; it runs good for 15 minutes, and then rough idle at a stoplight while in D with foot on the brake. RPM is around 600 and stable. If I put the gear into N, the vibration is gone and its RPM is 700. I don't have any CEL codes or engine light yet. Have you solved out this issue?
The 100 series uses an electrical booster motor for the brake assist, not vacuum. Common misconception!Stab in the dark, but I have heard of the brake booster developing a vacuum leak. That will affect idle.
Pump up the brake with car off, keep foot on brake amd start vehicle. Your foot should dip slightly towards the floor. If it doesn’t brake booster may be starting to go.