Great stuff, exhaust looks great!
Builds U-p-g-r-a-y-e-d-d (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bustanutley
- Start date
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My concern about that tranny shifter is that it doesn't look like it is controlling line pressure. Getting an electronic auto to shift is simple. Controlling the line pressure is a little more tricky. I would expect shifts to be very firm, even harsh without any control on line pressure.
- Thread starter
- #143
Intake plumbing is done.
- Thread starter
- #145
haha! Stretching it out that long certainly isn't my intention!
There is a lot involved with this engine swap and lots of little de-hacking some of my poorly executed work in the past. My goal at the moment is to have it running by the end of the year. I get pretty distracted by my bikes in the summer, I'm pretty motivated right now.
"done" is relative, I've got plans
There is a lot involved with this engine swap and lots of little de-hacking some of my poorly executed work in the past. My goal at the moment is to have it running by the end of the year. I get pretty distracted by my bikes in the summer, I'm pretty motivated right now.
"done" is relative, I've got plans
- Thread starter
- #147
Toyota fuel pump assembly modified and installed in my tank.
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Awesome project.
Awesome project.
- Thread starter
- #150
Yeah, Factory in tank pumps are a much better solution, the fuel they are submerged in keeps them cool and quiet. The aftermarket in line pumps seem to have a pretty short lifespan, I recommend that you just pull a pump that came with your engine from the factory and put it in your tank. 
where did you get your Atlas output flanges at?
- Thread starter
- #152
They came from High Angle Driveline. I had them sent directly to AA and installed while building my case.
- Thread starter
- #153
So, I have been slowly chipping away at this thing when I can find time. All the plumbing is done, and almost everything is mounted. It’s turning out pretty clean, which I’m happy about. I patched a s***load of holes in the firewall, which sucked. If I did it again, I would have patched every hole with no drivetrain in, I thought I would be utilizing a bunch of the factory holes/routing, I thought wrong. I ended up having to ditch my factory heater to make room for the battery. I wanted to keep the heater, I’m not really sure why? It used up way too much room, and further weight reduction is always a good thing.
I built a new gauge panel out of a chunk of aluminum.
One of my calipers had a stuck piston, I’m not sure how long? So, I swapped in my old tundra brakes. Doing this requires the knuckles to be swapped side to side. When I got into the axle everything was a mess, so I ended up rebuilding the whole front end. All new seals, new steering studs, even dropped the diff which had a slow weep for a while. The brake swap requires IFS wheel hubs. One of the wheel hubs I salvaged had a broken dowel. Since I have had problems with this connecting in the past I decided to just double down and get longfield’s 4340 drive flanges that accept 6 bigger dowels.
Also, I picked this up a while back
And this dropped in my lap for it the next day.
I built a new gauge panel out of a chunk of aluminum.
One of my calipers had a stuck piston, I’m not sure how long? So, I swapped in my old tundra brakes. Doing this requires the knuckles to be swapped side to side. When I got into the axle everything was a mess, so I ended up rebuilding the whole front end. All new seals, new steering studs, even dropped the diff which had a slow weep for a while. The brake swap requires IFS wheel hubs. One of the wheel hubs I salvaged had a broken dowel. Since I have had problems with this connecting in the past I decided to just double down and get longfield’s 4340 drive flanges that accept 6 bigger dowels.
Also, I picked this up a while back
And this dropped in my lap for it the next day.
- Thread starter
- #155
Nah. I'm going to scrap the housing, its hammered anyway. Pull the knuckles off and swap everything over
D 60 knuckles/inner C's on a stock cruiser housing then?
IMHO, spend another $600 (probably less considering you have a bunch of the parts already) and get a brand new Ruff stuff or Diamond housing. I know, It's not my money but
IMHO, spend another $600 (probably less considering you have a bunch of the parts already) and get a brand new Ruff stuff or Diamond housing. I know, It's not my money but
- Thread starter
- #157
haha, Maybe I should have explained. That's a 609, and its staying a 609 Dedenbear inner and outer C's, alloyUSA 35 spline shafts, built from all new parts ect. I'm going to get a new housing probably spidertrax. the ARB is an RD99 recently gone thru by ARB. All of it was a really good deal. I still have to gather quite a few parts before I'll be putting it under my truck. Next winter I think.
Dedenbear inner and outer C's, alloyUSA 35 spline shafts, built from all new parts ect. I'm going to get a new housing probably spidertrax. the ARB is an RD99 recently gone thru by ARB. All of it was a really good deal. I still have to gather quite a few parts before I'll be putting it under my truck. Next winter I think.
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- Thread starter
- #158
Fired this thing up last night
Edit: Humm, that first link doesn't seem to be working anymore. same file:
http://home.comcast.net/~utleyz/2uzstart.mp4
Edit: Humm, that first link doesn't seem to be working anymore. same file:
http://home.comcast.net/~utleyz/2uzstart.mp4
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good job baby!
sounds rad
sounds rad
