u-joint bearing race replacements? (1 Viewer)

[gwolf3]

So I am trying to tackle changing out the u joint on the front and rear prop shafts for the first time on my 300K mileage '80.
I just finally managed to get those fk'ers off the front prop out of there with the hammer method, and low and behold, the bearing races look pretty destroyed (and i mean like really no bueno). I can't find any info on replacing u joint races anywhere... does anyone have experience with this? Or is the best thing to get some fine sandpaper and clean it up as much as possible, hammer the new ones back in and call it a day?

 

[gwolf3]

i might have been slightly over-zealous on the hammering in retrospect.... but they were really stuck in there

 

[robnicko]

here you go, a really informative video

 

[gwolf3]

Yes, I'd been following that video, but it doesn't say what to do if the actual races are damaged...

For reference:

 

[Squeegee]

Yes, I'd been following that video, but it doesn't say what to do if the actual races are damaged...

For reference:

View attachment 3265921

Mmmmmm I’d get a new one

 

[gwolf3]

Mmmmmm I’d get a new one

Yes, but, can I just replace the race, or do I need to replace the whole assembly. Bc I don't see any info about how to replace the races on the joints? Also, I can't seem to find any part numbers anywhere for the races themselves.

 

[John McVicker]

^^^
Excellent video.

 

[Shipwreck]

Yes, but, can I just replace the race, or do I need to replace the whole assembly. Bc I don't see any info about how to replace the races on the joints? Also, I can't seem to find any part numbers anywhere for the races themselves.

There are no "bearing races" in your picture. That is the driveshaft yoke. The bearing races for a u-joint is the cap that you hammered out. The proper way to repair the damage that you caused to the yoke is to replace the yoke or the complete driveshaft.

You may be able to clean up the yoke enough to press in a new cap, but you risk misalignment of the caps and needle bearings, which will cause premature wear or vibration. You might get lucky, but that looks like a trail spare now.

...And please don't use a hammer to press in the new u-joint caps.

 

[Squeegee]

Yes, but, can I just replace the race, or do I need to replace the whole assembly. Bc I don't see any info about how to replace the races on the joints? Also, I can't seem to find any part numbers anywhere for the races themselves.

The post above has very good info!

 

[leonard_nemoy]

I would throw some new u joints in and run it. It could easily last a long time or fail in a few thousand miles.

New u joints are much cheaper than a new shaft and maybe you will damage the new shaft during your 1st u joint install. So better to learn on a yoke that is already damaged.

Clean off any burrs in the yoke and go for it. If they fail than you will be better prepared to do the job on a shiney new shaft.

 

[Malleus]

I've honestly never seen anyone use a claw hammer to install needle bearings. I guess he gets points for using an impact socket as a press tool. Someone needs to tell Google that's misinformation and have him cancelled. I know the Anitpodes are rustic, but that's a step too far.

Please use a bench vise, if you don't have access to a press. Driving a bearing component with an impact tool is only acceptable if you're removing it (or stuck miles away from anywhere and really need to be elsewhere).

 

[gwolf3]

I've honestly never seen anyone use a claw hammer to install needle bearings. I guess he gets points for using an impact socket as a press tool. Someone needs to tell Google that's misinformation and have him cancelled. I know the Anitpodes are rustic, but that's a step too far.

Please use a bench vise, if you don't have access to a press. Driving a bearing component with an impact tool is only acceptable if you're removing it (or stuck miles away from anywhere and really need to be elsewhere).

Well this is all great advice for next time I do it - I ended up banging the new ones back in LOL (and i mean BANGING) - because of the damage to the inner housing, one of the bearing caps would not go in all the way to be able to get the little circlip on, but it was pretty close, and it just would not budge anymore no matter how hard i smacked it with the hammer, so I said F it.


I felt the movement of the new U joints, and despite all this, they do feel really nice and smooth, much better than the ones I took off. I must say that I did initially try to use one of those C clamp presses rented from the local auto store and found it to be an unbearable PITA to do just about anything, and just would not work to get those stuck bearing caps out, so that's why I pivoted to the "im not asking" hammer approach. I imagine doing this job with a bench hydraulic press would have been far more enjoyable because getting those things out was an endeavor.

 

[Malleus]

Bench vise:

 

[Shipwreck]

Bench vise:

...and heat and cold.
For installation, you can heat the yoke in the oven or with a torch. Throw the needle bearing caps in the freezer.
This technique works for lots of different races or bearings.

 

[gwolf3]

...and heat and cold.
For installation, you can heat the yoke in the oven or with a torch. Throw the needle bearing caps in the freezer.
This technique works for lots of different races or bearings.

Great tip! I learned my lesson on this one and now I know to let physics (hot/cold and some good ol leverage ) be my friend next time!

 

[Malleus]

This is unnecessary for the U-joints. As a matter of fact, I can't think of one bearing on a Land Cruiser that needs this. Piston wrist pins do, but they're not bearings.

 

[OGBeno]

...and heat and cold.
For installation, you can heat the yoke in the oven or with a torch. Throw the needle bearing caps in the freezer.
This technique works for lots of different races or bearings.

Done this many times.

Bearings and races literally fall into place after a good overnight of freezing.

 

[ppc]

one of the bearing caps would not go in all the way to be able to get the little circlip on, but it was pretty close, and it just would not budge anymore no matter how hard i smacked it with the hammer, so I said F it.

This most likely was the result of one or more of the needles in the cap falling out of place. If you don't fix this now you're going to have problems in the near future at greater expense.

 

[BILT4ME]

This most likely was the result of one or more of the needles in the cap falling out of place. If you don't fix this now you're going to have problems in the near future at greater expense.

I was going to post the EXACT same thing.

Live and learn. That's how we gain "wisdom"......

 

[gwolf3]

This most likely was the result of one or more of the needles in the cap falling out of place. If you don't fix this now you're going to have problems in the near future at greater expense.

If that was the case, would it be able to move freely and smoothly as it does?