Tunnel vision

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Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Threads
9
Messages
52
Location
Belleville, IL
We recently purchased a nice 6/76 Texas FJ40 with almost no rust, original paint and mostly complete with original parts. I'm excited to own this one because its not a cobbled together "restoration". It does have a few modifications, most of which I would do if they weren't already done. This truck was a wheeler at one point, so it's not pristine, but whomever owned it over the past 50 years cared for it and was a Toyota enthusiast. It even has a small plaque on the dash for the 1980 Escondido Run. I like that someone was wheeling this before I was born. The person we bought it from only owned it for a year and didn't know the first thing about Toyota's and had a truly impressive Mopar collection in his air conditioned shop. He couldn't tell me anything about it that I didn't already know.

I've worked Land Cruisers off and on since 1998, even worked for a well known LC restoration shop for almost 4 years. I've wrenched on a lot of cool stuff and I've seen even more completely garbage work on Cruisers. I have a good grasp of what I am looking at when buying a 40 thanks to that experience.

However...

I may have let my excitement for the newest 40 give me tunnel vision and look past some obvious issues. Nothing that can't be fixed. I've been fixing a few things that bothered me about this 40 since we got it in June. My most recent discovery was on my first test drive since fixing the cooling system and rebuilding the carburetor. I had taken a test ride with the previous owner just to verify that it drove, but we only went around the block in town. We loaded it on the trailer and took it to my shop. I drove my nephews around on a slow bumpy back road. After that it wen up on the lift and I started addressing a few things. Full fluid swap, ditch the Edelbrock electric fuel pump for OEM mechanical pump, plumb the PCV system, rebuild and tune the carb, address the bypassed ignitor, install Pertronix, flip the thermostat to the correct position, get the correct thermostat housing for the oil cooler, replaced rusted closed heater valve and completely clogged coolant carb heat riser due to an imaginative coolant hose routing that created dead spots, get the correct battery and tray, ditch the Cressida alternator for a FJ40 option because the upper ear is was not at 12 o'clock and they butchered the tensioner bracket to make it work, fix the wiper res, new battery cables, etc. The list goes on, but that's not important.

I got to the point I could go to the gas station and fill it up finally. I left the shop. Once I hit 50 I was feeling a growl/vibration which I hadn't noticed before. I came back to the shop to investigate:

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Out of phase rear drive shaft. I had even bumped my head on that sucker more than once, but I didn't pay much attention to it otherwise because the seller had clearly recently greased it. Of course I pulled the shaft only to find out the pinion bearings and/or crush sleeve are wrecked. I have a parts FJ40 with 4.10's and some spare 3.70 thirds in the shipping container, so I have options but I was ready to get out driving again. I ordered gaskets this morning at the Toyota dealership which will be here over the next few days. I am tearing the axle down this evening. I am probably going to swap in a 3.70 third in the rear to see if I like it before doing both. I am going to cut the perches off and rotate the housing 5 degrees. I can get that done quicker and cheaper than waiting for shims and longer center pins, plus I can only find 4 or 6 degree shims at 2.75" wide.

Anyway, I feel sort of silly for not seeing the problem while I stood under the truck. This all makes me wonder how the previous owner and the guy before him were driving around with the out of phase shaft.
 
Sounds like a good project and you must have skills if relocating the spring perches is easier/quicker than buying pins and shims. Looking forward to seeing how this progresses.

In case you change your mind WFO has the shims and pins and are a smaller company I like to support (they also have some cool wheeling and build videos on U-tube).


 
Sounds like a good project and you must have skills if relocating the spring perches is easier/quicker than buying pins and shims. Looking forward to seeing how this progresses.

In case you change your mind WFO has the shims and pins and are a smaller company I like to support (they also have some cool wheeling and build videos on U-tube).



20+ years as a fabricator and mechanic. It’s not necessarily easier, but cutting four welds and rewelding is beginner stuff. Check out my buggy build in my signature, shows what I’ve been tinkering on in my free time.

WFO shims require pulling the center pin and installing the shim with the pin through it. I like the design, but I need 5 degrees and they offer 4 or 6. 1 degree +/- is still better than what is currently have going on. Coincidentally I had their site pulled up as a tab deciding which route I will go. I’ve used them in the past and like supporting them.

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I got the third yanked. Eeesh. The gears are damaged. Glad I have a few options sitting around.

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Third member gaskets show up tomorrow at Newbold Toyota. Rear cover gasket should be arrive there this week. I’m gonna replace the pinion seal before stuffing the 3.70 diff in.

The gears chattering may caused other damage, not entirely sure. One of the spider gear thrust washers was cracked in half and scored the inside of the carrier. Didn’t take a pic though.

Another find when pulling things apart is the wheel cylinder lock tabs in the driver side are both cracked in half, but their remnants are missing. At least that’s what I believe is going on. No damage to the shoes though. And the shoes need flipped around I believe. Driver compared to passenger are installed differently.

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Tunnel vision=fewer pics. Pining for pics of the rig overall. Need more pics on this thread😁
 
Got the 3.70 third cleaned up, needle scaled the rust away, replaced the pinion seal, checked the pattern (not great but not awful), rattle canned and installed. Still waiting on the cork gasket. I am gonna cut the perches Friday or Saturday. Hopefully the rear gasket shows up first so I can seal up the housing to keep the grinding dust out.

I was mistaken about the early diffs having crush sleeves. This one is out of a 1979 and had a solid spacer and shims.

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Got the brake shoes oriented correctly. Still need to pull some wheel cylinder lock tabs off the parts car.

One downside to this diff that I found out is that the spider gears are sorta sloppy to the carrier. Thinking about slapping a Aussie in there later, just want to test drive the 3.70’s first. I might talk to the local driveshaft shop to see if he will re-tube and balance the driveshaft. I’ve used him a bunch on custom stuff, but he can be a ding dong when it comes to re-using old parts. I sorta want to keep the OE yokes instead of going with Neapco or whatever he would source. Might also call Tom Woods. I’ve used them a bunch before and they do good work, but it would be all new parts.
 
You should absolutely not have to rotate the rear axle for the suspension you have pictured. Pinion angle is normally a few degrees off from “correct”, it will be fine. Your vibration will go away with your corrected driveshaft and fresh 3rd member
 
You should absolutely not have to rotate the rear axle for the suspension you have pictured. Pinion angle is normally a few degrees off from “correct”, it will be fine. Your vibration will go away with your corrected driveshaft and fresh 3rd member
even 5 degrees off? I'll give it a test drive and if things go away I will leave it alone. Thanks for your input
 
even 5 degrees off? I'll give it a test drive and if things go away I will leave it alone. Thanks for your input

Yes. I absolutely would not waster your time with that. Spend that time and cut the shackle reversal off instead
 
Is that the bathtub I see?
Talking about the blue thing? It’s basically a bath tub. It’s a Graymills PH922-A that I recently scored for $30 at an auction!! It’s a heated aqueous washer that can hold up to 300 lbs in the bottom or 150 with the shelf installed. It’s freaking awesome.
 
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Talking about the blue thing? It’s basically a bath tub. It’s a Graymills PH922-A that I recently scored for $30 at an auction!! It’s a heated aqueous washer that can hold up to 300 lbs in the bottom or 150 with the shelf installed. It’s freaking awesome.

No, the buggy. Alex always used to call it that lol.
 
Snagged two locking tabs off the parts truck and got them installed on the driver side wheel cylinders. Cleaned the axle flange and adjusted the shoes. I used a stubby screw driver, but ended up ordering a 09704-10010 brake shoe SST from City Racer.

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The lowest bolt on the third and the rear cover have been ground down by rocks, so I picked up a M10-1.25 tap and die chaser from Lang to add to my set.

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Rear gasket showed up yesterday. Slapped the cover on and filled the axle with some fresh 80W90 GL5. Im going to address the brake lines later.

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And off we go.

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Huge difference. The vibes are gone for the most part. Im still going to talk to the driveshaft shop about re-tubing the rear shaft. If you look at the initial post you can see some rock damage to the tube by the fixed yoke. I have a spare rear shaft but it needs u-joints at minimum.

The change to 3.70 is noticeable but not dramatic. There is a 10.53% RPM difference at 65 MPH. Haven’t driven it enough to have a real opinion of the new ratio.

4.11 on left, 3.70 on right.
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