trifecta of warning light(charge/brake/AT temp) (1 Viewer)

[emac]

New to me rig. Wasnt charging, but no lights were illuminated. I replaced the alternator as it wasnt putting out any volts. The alternator was a rebuilt unit from Oreilleys. Fired up and meter shows 14v at alternator and battery, gauge also showing good voltage. Drove around a little and seemed to be fine.

Then the lights came on. Checked voltage, gauge, etc. All are showing that the charging system is working. I checked a few grounds and connections. Checked brake master and parking brake. Checked fuses and breakers.

After reading several posts, they all seem to point to the alternator. I just cant see where mine is bad. It is brand new, and charging. I read some posts about loose grounds behind the dash. Any chance it could be a connection going to the tranny temp sensor?

I am in the middle of taking things apart for paint, and I will be removing the dash and interior, so I can see the wiring better very soon.

I noticed the PO replaced the Alternator a couple of times and had charging issues. He also has the radio disconnected as he thought it may be draining the battery.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

[FJ157]

I am/was having a similar issue. my alt was not putting out enough power, to the point the radio would turn off and truck would sputter (at speed). Replaced it with an autozone alt and i still felt like i wasnt getting enough power. I hate to tell you that its just the way it is apparently. i cleaned grounds, topped off battery and put it on a slow 3a charge for 24 hrs, tested alt output at the rear post all signs point to good, and then stuck in ridiculous traffic the other day and the radio turns off and engine starts to sputter. I just pulled the hand throttle and raised the rpms to get the charge back up. I just dont think the charging system is up to the task. i have read mixed reviews on the mean green alt upgrade and at $400 i dont know if its worth it. some folks also go to a dual battery system. I dont feel like that is a good fix either, if my alt can barely charge one battery how will it cope with two. I am currently just keeping my eye on it watching my amp draw in long idle situations and waiting for some one to come up with the "alternator of wonder" that will solve all our problems.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

89 FJ62. I got the trifecta, Xmas tree dash last year. Put in a new reman denso alt from Toyota. Checked the fusible links, they were good, and it’s been good to go since.

 

[CaptHamster]

@emac , I am not too familiar with the electrical systems on these vehicles, but I recall reading something about a "charge relay" or "charge lamp relay", possibly under the dashboard, driver's side kick panel area. It is my understanding that even a healthy alt will not charge properly if this relay is fried or not working properly. May be worth a check?

I am/was having a similar issue. my alt was not putting out enough power, to the point the radio would turn off and truck would sputter (at speed). Replaced it with an autozone alt and i still felt like i wasnt getting enough power. I hate to tell you that its just the way it is apparently. i cleaned grounds, topped off battery and put it on a slow 3a charge for 24 hrs, tested alt output at the rear post all signs point to good, and then stuck in ridiculous traffic the other day and the radio turns off and engine starts to sputter. I just pulled the hand throttle and raised the rpms to get the charge back up. I just dont think the charging system is up to the task. i have read mixed reviews on the mean green alt upgrade and at $400 i dont know if its worth it. some folks also go to a dual battery system. I dont feel like that is a good fix either, if my alt can barely charge one battery how will it cope with two. I am currently just keeping my eye on it watching my amp draw in long idle situations and waiting for some one to come up with the "alternator of wonder" that will solve all our problems.

@FJ157 , this does not sound right at all.

The stock FJ62 alternator puts out 90A (admittedly at something like 2000RPM) which should be absolutely plenty for the vehicle to run, along with most accessories. I would take a serious look at the resistance in your battery cables, check that all fusible links are in good order, and clean the common ground points for the charging system. I would also inspect the voltage regulator, which on the FJ62, is internal. That can cause (in my case) very little to no charging at idle, and over charging near 2000RPM or so.

The Autozone/O'Reilly/Napa generic alternators are very hit and miss in my experience; in the times I've had them, they've been either just okay for a little while, or really bad, in one case only lasting 1 month before the (internal) voltage regulator blew and almost ruined my battery. Despite their price, I would stick with the reman Denso units available from Toyota; I tend to think they are remanufactured to a higher standard, and the one currently on my 62 has been running great for 2 years now.

 

[emac]

@emac , I am not too familiar with the electrical systems on these vehicles, but I recall reading something about a "charge relay" or "charge lamp relay", possibly under the dashboard, driver's side kick panel area. It is my understanding that even a healthy alt will not charge properly if this relay is fried or not working properly. May be worth a check?

Yes, I read in an old post about a combined ground behind the dash that sometimes goes bad. My lights are on full bright no matter the rpm's. No flickering at all. Voltage at the alternator and battery are 14+ volts, so the alternator is working. I must have a bad ground somewhere in the circuit. I just have to dig into the wiring diagram. Weird how the other alternator wasnt charging and no lights were on, this one is charging and the lights are on!

Between this and the power locks/windows I am going to get familiar with the FJ62 wiring.

A positive note: My rear heater fan wasnt working. Tracked it down to the relay. Took the relay apart and cleaned up the contacts, and it is working.

 

[emac]

did some reading and found the charge lamp relay. Passenger kick panel. Will test the relay according to WSM and see what it shows. Thanks @CaptHamster

 

[g-man]

pull your old toyota alternator out of the trash and get it rebuilt at a alternator repair shop (keep it as a spare until your Oreilys takes a crap)

Check your voltage gauge. If it's not 13 or 13.5 or 14 and more like hanging around 12 then I agree with fj157 replace your voltage regulator.

 

[emac]

I tested the charge light relay and it is working properly. I am beginning to believe that the alternator is bad. It is charging, but there must be something wrong with the signal to the lamp. I really dont have time to troubleshoot their garbage. I am going to try another alternator. The one that came out wasnt OE, and I swapped it for a core.

Stared at the thing this morning and I am thinking of desmogging the engine as I am probably going to remove the air pump to get the alternator out. The air pump is a bit noisy, and all the rubber hoses feel like they will break coming off.

 

[morganism]

this a 40, 0r a 60?

60's use a switched ground, instead of switched power. So power always going to heater resistors, fan relays, and ignitor and coil.

in 60's check the ignitor/coil pack ground first (bolts and carriage),There is a small ground wire on one corner of the ignitor case, but worthwile to put a real ground wire on the other corner. Then the heater fan resistor. If a 60, near the accel pedal, 40s on top of the blower. Be very gentle with them.

Is it doing any of the delayed start probs?

 

[emac]

My apologies, it is a 62. Seems to start fine. At least it did until I decided to tear it apart!

 

[emac]

Ok, I think I have it figured out. Here are two wiring diagrams that may help in the future.

https://www.ih8mud.com/tech/88lc-wire/88lc-wd1.gif Alternator

https://www.ih8mud.com/tech/88lc-wire/88lc-wd4.gif charge relay and lamp

The yellow with white stripe wire coming from the Alternator L terminal. L stands for Lamp. When the alt is running this wire turns off. I am pretty certain mine was hot all the time causes the lights to glow even though the alt is still charging. The Alt manufacturer told me it is a circuit board in the alt that is probably bad. So, like others, when you get these lights it is likely the Alternator. My brand new one was bad. I will post a follow up when I get my OE reman alternator installed.......and pray the lights go away.

 

[emac]

Just to complete this thread. I installed my toyota remanufactured alternator and all the lights are gone! If you need to replace your alternator, rebuild your OEM one or make sure it is in the right box!