Transmission Codes > Rebuilt Transmission > Still Having Issues (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Threads
2
Messages
12
Location
Nashville, TN
Hey all,

I've got a 2003 LC that I've owned for the last 5 years and am the second owner. It has 270k+ miles on it. It's been fantastic for 4.5 of those years but the last 6 months have been real tough for it.

A little over 3 months ago I was driving home from work when I noticed a clunk while leaving the parking lot, which then caused the check engine light along with VSC lights to come on. I decided to see if I could make it home (don't live far, about 15 minutes) without getting a tow. It was a rough trip - it was clunking all over the place. I realized on my 15 minute drive home that the clunk was mostly between 1st and 2nd. So, I was dreading any time I saw a stop light that was coming up. It would clunk while downshifting to 1st and then shifting up to 2nd once the light turned green. It was mostly smooth after passing 2nd and going into 3rd, 4th and 5th. I finally made it home, though.

I called my local mechanic and dropped it off for him to look at. He ran the codes which he said were coming back as transmission codes, I believe he said "slipping between __ and ___" (can't remember). He said he doesn't work on transmissions and recommended a local transmission shop. So, I took my car back and then about a week later drove it to the transmission shop and dropped it off after hours. Oddly enough, my ride down to the transmission shop (about 30 minutes on interstate and back roads), there was no clunking whatsoever - it's as if it never happened. The check engine light was still on, though.

The transmission shop called me about 10 days later (they were backed up) and confirmed basically what the first local mechanic said: "It's showing transmission codes, it's slipping between 4th and 5th..." and they recommended a transmission rebuild. So, I said yes. They said it would be 10-14 days for the rebuild.

Two weeks go by and they said that the transmission went in great but they were still experiencing electrical issues and that they would keep me posted.

A couple more weeks went by and then they called and said that they've "replaced all the electrics in the truck that they could think of" and then that the catalytic converter was so gunked up that the truck was down on power and they couldn't get a good test drive in, so they recommended they "knock out the ceramics" which of course would throw an O2 sensor code but would also help them get a test drive in. So, I agreed.

A couple more weeks went by and they said they are still having issues and the "last ditch effort" would be to replace the Engine Control Module. So they spent a couple weeks looking for one and finally found one that came in from NY. They had to program it when it got in so they had someone come and program it (I also had to go down there and drop off all my spare keys so they would all work after the reprogram).

I then got a call back a few days later saying that the vehicle was ready to be picked up and was running good.

I went and grabbed it at about 2:30pm on a Friday and started driving home. Everything was running great - check engine light was on (for the O2 sensor) but the transmission was shifting smoothly. It's a few miles of back roads until I get to the interstate. Once I get to the interstate, I get it up to 75mph and it's still running great. I then had to get off on an exit for a quick stop. After that, I went to get back on the interstate and while I was on the on ramp, in Drive, the truck totally slipped out of gear and my RPMs go soaring. No gear was engaged. I was basically in neutral. I was trying to get back on the interstate so I started riding the shoulder at about 40mph and dropped it down to 4th to see if that would help - it did. Somehow it found 4th and I kept it there and headed straight back to the transmission shop. I'm going 60 on the interstate in 4th so my RPMs are about 3,000 but at least it stayed in gear.

Once I got off the interstate, things got very clunky... it was worth then it was before I dropped it off. I'm in Drive now and after accelerating from every stop light it couldn't find the right gear to save it's life. My foot was almost all the way down just to accelerate from 0 - as if I was starting in 3rd or 4th. Then, at random times I would get my neck snapped back from it finding a gear and violently engaging that gear. It was all over the place. I finally made it back to the shop at about 3:30pm on Oct 27 and they have had it since. When I dropped it off I talked to a couple of the mechanics who had been working on it and they said that they had test drove the truck 30 miles before giving it back to me - with zero issues. I asked if they had taken it on the interstate and they said no, but they were able to get it up to 60mph on the back roads.

I called the shop today and I believe that they are very close to giving me my money back. To which my LC would have a rebuilt transmission, but still not functioning properly.

Does anyone have any ideas what this could be? Now that there's a rebuilt transmission in there, and all of these "transmission-like" issues are still happening, I'm wondering if it was never a transmission issue after all, but an electrical one? Has anyone experienced any of this before? Any ideas would be very helpful. Thanks all.
 
Hey all,

I've got a 2003 LC that I've owned for the last 5 years and am the second owner. It has 270k+ miles on it. It's been fantastic for 4.5 of those years but the last 6 months have been real tough for it.

A little over 3 months ago I was driving home from work when I noticed a clunk while leaving the parking lot, which then caused the check engine light along with VSC lights to come on. I decided to see if I could make it home (don't live far, about 15 minutes) without getting a tow. It was a rough trip - it was clunking all over the place. I realized on my 15 minute drive home that the clunk was mostly between 1st and 2nd. So, I was dreading any time I saw a stop light that was coming up. It would clunk while downshifting to 1st and then shifting up to 2nd once the light turned green. It was mostly smooth after passing 2nd and going into 3rd, 4th and 5th. I finally made it home, though.

I called my local mechanic and dropped it off for him to look at. He ran the codes which he said were coming back as transmission codes, I believe he said "slipping between __ and ___" (can't remember). He said he doesn't work on transmissions and recommended a local transmission shop. So, I took my car back and then about a week later drove it to the transmission shop and dropped it off after hours. Oddly enough, my ride down to the transmission shop (about 30 minutes on interstate and back roads), there was no clunking whatsoever - it's as if it never happened. The check engine light was still on, though.

The transmission shop called me about 10 days later (they were backed up) and confirmed basically what the first local mechanic said: "It's showing transmission codes, it's slipping between 4th and 5th..." and they recommended a transmission rebuild. So, I said yes. They said it would be 10-14 days for the rebuild.

Two weeks go by and they said that the transmission went in great but they were still experiencing electrical issues and that they would keep me posted.

A couple more weeks went by and then they called and said that they've "replaced all the electrics in the truck that they could think of" and then that the catalytic converter was so gunked up that the truck was down on power and they couldn't get a good test drive in, so they recommended they "knock out the ceramics" which of course would throw an O2 sensor code but would also help them get a test drive in. So, I agreed.

A couple more weeks went by and they said they are still having issues and the "last ditch effort" would be to replace the Engine Control Module. So they spent a couple weeks looking for one and finally found one that came in from NY. They had to program it when it got in so they had someone come and program it (I also had to go down there and drop off all my spare keys so they would all work after the reprogram).

I then got a call back a few days later saying that the vehicle was ready to be picked up and was running good.

I went and grabbed it at about 2:30pm on a Friday and started driving home. Everything was running great - check engine light was on (for the O2 sensor) but the transmission was shifting smoothly. It's a few miles of back roads until I get to the interstate. Once I get to the interstate, I get it up to 75mph and it's still running great. I then had to get off on an exit for a quick stop. After that, I went to get back on the interstate and while I was on the on ramp, in Drive, the truck totally slipped out of gear and my RPMs go soaring. No gear was engaged. I was basically in neutral. I was trying to get back on the interstate so I started riding the shoulder at about 40mph and dropped it down to 4th to see if that would help - it did. Somehow it found 4th and I kept it there and headed straight back to the transmission shop. I'm going 60 on the interstate in 4th so my RPMs are about 3,000 but at least it stayed in gear.

Once I got off the interstate, things got very clunky... it was worth then it was before I dropped it off. I'm in Drive now and after accelerating from every stop light it couldn't find the right gear to save it's life. My foot was almost all the way down just to accelerate from 0 - as if I was starting in 3rd or 4th. Then, at random times I would get my neck snapped back from it finding a gear and violently engaging that gear. It was all over the place. I finally made it back to the shop at about 3:30pm on Oct 27 and they have had it since. When I dropped it off I talked to a couple of the mechanics who had been working on it and they said that they had test drove the truck 30 miles before giving it back to me - with zero issues. I asked if they had taken it on the interstate and they said no, but they were able to get it up to 60mph on the back roads.

I called the shop today and I believe that they are very close to giving me my money back. To which my LC would have a rebuilt transmission, but still not functioning properly.

Does anyone have any ideas what this could be? Now that there's a rebuilt transmission in there, and all of these "transmission-like" issues are still happening, I'm wondering if it was never a transmission issue after all, but an electrical one? Has anyone experienced any of this before? Any ideas would be very helpful. Thanks all.
Fascinating story. Should have posted something here earlier along in this journey. I don't believe anyone out there is trying to rip you off however I do believe some people are just stupid and don't know what they are doing

I'll just list my random thoughts below and hopefully smarter folks will chime in
  • I'm always a bit skeptical of a failed transmission diagnosis on these vehicles but I suppose anything is possible. At this point we'll just need to assume it truly did fail and needed the rebuild.
  • I think it's strange that they convinced you to destroy your CAT, I don't see how that has anything to do with this. A clogged cat would have other symptoms and shouldn't relate to diagnosing a transmission
  • Then they decided well shoot give him another ECU
    >> where did that ECU come from? Another 02 cruiser?A LX version? Are there different versions throughout the 100 series? IDK probably

  • And then after all that they manage to button it back up and get it to move but then you find it's worse then how it started. Check your mileage before dropping it off and make sure they test drive it
    >> I assume they did a poor repair job and something wasn't put together properly. Automatics transmissions are like magically little boxes that not many people understand how to repair properly


  • I'd push hard for your money back or some kind of new solution. I'd also get them to replace the cats and get the check engine light off. No need to take them for everything they got but I think it's not out of line for you to ask for the problem to be fixed .



  • Possible fixes
    >>>Start simple. Get the transmission up to operating temperatures and just check fluid levels.
    >> Ask them what type of fluid they used
    >> Ask them how they checked the level
    >> Could you bring it to Toyota and get this repair shop to pay the tab?

  • Other possible issues
    >> Probably not electrical based on your description but anything is possible
    >> Front end clunking leading to lack of forward momentum can sometimes be caused by the front CV axles slipping on the hub flange due to worn splines.


  • You may truly have had a failing transmission. Now the goal is to confirm if they rebuilt it properly and if so why it's not working. Check fluids just so you know it's not something simple and then keep pushing for a resolution.
 
Hope you get it right.
There was a thread posted recently where the solution to the issue was a new transmission harness. I don’t remember when I read it or who posted but the owner got to the solution after spending lots of time replacing other stuff.

At our dealership we sent a car to get a transmission rebuild only once.
Our mechanic Always replaced bad transmissions with used ones, and the only time we did send one was bc we couldn’t find a used one anywhere.
That car was never fixed, it went back and forth for weeks to the shop, until we just gave up. Sent it to auction and lost on it.
 
Thanks for the replies so far. Good thoughts on starting with the basics (transmission fluid).

@Patron100LC - Interesting about the transmission rebuild vs finding a used one. Also noted about the transmission harness.

Haven't heard from them since a couple days ago when they said they were close to giving me my money back. Hoping they figure it out.
 
Hey all,

Here's the update:

They called a couple weeks after my last post and told me that they were going to try one last thing - a new transmission wiring harness (@Patron100LC) and then if that didn't work they were going to give me my money back. So, about a week later they called me and told me it was ready to pick up. I talked to the head mechanic when I picked it up who said they found a handful of corroded pins when they were replacing the harness, so that was probably the issue. I've had it since with no transmission issues whatsoever. So, did I need a rebuilt transmission, maybe, maybe not. May never know. But it's working now - so I'm happy.

Now the next thing is - my check engine light is on because they punched out the ceramics in my catalytic converter so it's throwing a code... I'm OCD when it comes to code, and I don't really like the slightly grey smoke coming from the exhaust nor do I like the smell of exhaust that comes inside the cabin and around the vehicle when I'm idling. So, I'm looking into maybe replacing this on my own if possible (don't know anything about replacing cats...). Anyone have a good aftermarket cat that is easy to install? Also, I've heard that there are two. I need to locate the one that they broke so I know which one to replace.

Thanks for all the help.
 
Hey all,

Here's the update:

They called a couple weeks after my last post and told me that they were going to try one last thing - a new transmission wiring harness (@Patron100LC) and then if that didn't work they were going to give me my money back. So, about a week later they called me and told me it was ready to pick up. I talked to the head mechanic when I picked it up who said they found a handful of corroded pins when they were replacing the harness, so that was probably the issue. I've had it since with no transmission issues whatsoever. So, did I need a rebuilt transmission, maybe, maybe not. May never know. But it's working now - so I'm happy.

Now the next thing is - my check engine light is on because they punched out the ceramics in my catalytic converter so it's throwing a code... I'm OCD when it comes to code, and I don't really like the slightly grey smoke coming from the exhaust nor do I like the smell of exhaust that comes inside the cabin and around the vehicle when I'm idling. So, I'm looking into maybe replacing this on my own if possible (don't know anything about replacing cats...). Anyone have a good aftermarket cat that is easy to install? Also, I've heard that there are two. I need to locate the one that they broke so I know which one to replace.

Thanks for all the help.
You should be getting a cat code for whichever bank's cat they destroyed. There's one for each side of the motor.
 
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It sounds stupid to destroy cats, they should have cut it off and straight-piped... too late now. Hope all is good after replacing cats.
 
Thanks guys. Will probably go to O'Reilly's and have them run the codes to find out which one it is and go from there.
 
Glad you got the trans taken care of. Amazing how a few corroded copper wires can make anyone mess up their diagnosis.

Regarding CAT's, if you decide to go OEM, don't think twice, just replace w OEM and take in consideration the additional expense needed to protect them. (Belly pan?). The OEM catalytic converters will last the life of the car as long as the fuel burns properly without contaminants.

If aftermarket, who cares? Just go the easy way, get to a muffler shop, give them the keys and have them install whatever they sell, you'll be out in an hour with some stinky cat's that will rattle every now and then (they do stink, I think it's the cheap materials they use to filter gasses). In a short time you might regret not going OEM, ask me how I know. That's if you keep the cruiser for a long term.

If delete, keep us posted on the parts and programs needed to foul the system long term.

@jerryb ?
 
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