Transfer Case Shifter Collar Bushings - HOW TO INSTALL (1 Viewer)

[DominicanFZJ80]

If you're reading this, it may be because you're just curious or you've fallen into the mantra of: If Aboslute-Wits-End is producing a shiny bit, then I must need it...right? For those in the second grouping, you may have realized, no matter how many key words thrown in search bars, there isn't much along the lines of an install guideline. This thread will attempt to close that loop. For those in the first grouping, here's what I'm talking about: Click

Alright, you've made the purchase; let's get started.
Oh but wait, and I'll suggest this time after time, if you plan to work on your own 80, then do invest in the FSM (Factory Service Manual). The thing contains a wealth of knowledge. I even carry it with me on extended travel, just in case. Thankfully, haven't had to reference it yet, as the "easy stuff" has been committed to memory. Visual reference:

For some of the more mechanically inclined and familiar with the interior pinning of the 80 Series, I shall offer the two following images, and this could possibly be all you need to perform the replacement job (for others, do keep scrolling):

FSM Pages AT-13 & AT-14 (four arrows in final image of this page indicate bolts which feed through the Transfer Case Shifter Collar Bushings)

Congrats you're done!

Or you're still scrolling
No worries though as this, at best, is a project.

Safety precautions - Disconnect Battery; afterwards depress brake peddle, in effect bleeding residual energy from the systems (I know I know overkill, but that's how I do).

 

[DominicanFZJ80]

Intentionally Blank

 

[DominicanFZJ80]

Tools you will/may need:
- Screw Driver Set
- Socket Wrench Set
- Swivel Socket Attachment (helps to reach bolts partially obstructed by sheet metal, you'll see what I mean)
- Wrenches, both ratcheting and solid (helps to have a set with pivoting or angled neck)
- Pliers (I used a set of needle nose to pull the pin securing the shifter linkage)
- Mechanic's lighting of choice. Of use would be one that can be magnetically mount for hands free illumination.

Step One - Identify and remove consoles, see FSM images above and the following:

When removing, be careful of the wiring connector attached to the "PWR" and "2ND" buttons. In the image above, they are tucked slightly under the forward most, vertically oriented cup holder.
* Dash console is secured by four screws, two on either side, at each corner.
* Center Console (arm rest) is secured with three (3) bolts. One (1) forward and two (2), side by side, on the inside of the arm rest portion.

Step Two - Identify and remove electrical connectors and bolts which secure shifter plate assembly to body of the vehicle:

WAIT!!!!! DO NOT TUG On the assembly just yet, because you get to now crawl under the vehicle, and this is where your lighting will come in handy.

Step 3 - Disconnecting the shifter linkage. Tip: situate light so that you have full visual even when reach arms up into this small space. Good Luck!

Here's what is removed (the needle nose pliers come in handy here; that pin can be tough):

Ok, now that you've disconnected the linkage and set aside (in a safe, memorable place) the pin and rubber washers, climb back into the cab. Ensure that you have disconnected all wiring on the shifter assembly and have removed the six (6) bolts, which secure it to the vehicle's body. Once confident, pull up and remove that assembly; might be a little sticky as that area goes through many many many many heating and cooling cycles. Here is what you should be looking at, at this point:

Step 4 - You're almost there! As seen above, remove those four (4) bolts, they are the ones fed into the Transfer Case Shifter Collar Bushings.
* Here is where that swivel socket comes in handy.
* For the left two bolts it was easier for me to remove them from below. I did so using a combination of wrenches; one on the bolt and another linked to the crescent end to create more leverage, in order to break them loose.

 

[DominicanFZJ80]

Step 5 - Pull those bolts out to uncover the bushing that you've worked so hard to get at and ultimately replace.

Bolts on the right side removed; bushings now visible, albeit caked with dirt ; they can now be removed by hand.

Step 6 - Once removed, I decided to transfer the rubber grommets, from the existing bushings, to the new ones. I mean, why not, they slide right off and on to the new.

Bolt fitment check:

Step 7 - Set all bushings in place. Sit back take that celebratory picture (or not...) and smile, because you did it!

 

[DominicanFZJ80]

Final Steps - Put it all back together

Hope you find these guidelines useful, but keep in mind, that I am not a certified mechanic, and if referenced to perform the work yourself, you are doing so of your own volition.

Happy Wrenching!!!

 

[Kernal]

Great write up:

Do the bolts loosen up first with age/miles/rough off-road driving then the bushing ID gets ovaled out from sliding around, or?? Should we all check the torque on those bolts as a PM? (should @NLXTACY get ready to make some more?).

 

[NLXTACY]

Another batch ready by Tuesday

 

[jonheld]

Safety precautions - Disconnect Battery; afterwards depress brake peddle, in effect bleeding residual energy from the systems (I know I know overkill, but that's how I do).

Just nitpicking on a Saturday afternoon, but once the battery is disconnected, there can be no more electron flow. Those pesky laws of physics get in the way.

 

[rolliges]

Excellent write-up!

How about new rubber grommets and also for linkage?

How was the transmission shifter boot? Mine is torn and is noisy while in drive with the console removed. Why not change it all.

 

[Kernal]

Just nitpicking on a Saturday afternoon, but once the battery is disconnected, there can be no more electron flow. Those pesky laws of physics get in the way.

Just nitpicking the nitpicker: don't transfer cases have capacitors?

 

[Irish Reiver]

Excellent write-up!

How about new rubber grommets and also for linkage?

How was the transmission shifter boot? Mine is torn and is noisy while in drive with the console removed. Why not change it all.

Yep, I agree..there are a few rubber grommets in that area, transfer case shifter linkage and transmission shifter linkage
A kit with them all would be definitely be worth it.

 

[OGBeno]

Yep, I agree..there are a few rubber grommets in that area, transfer case shifter linkage and transmission shifter linkage
A kit with them all would be definitely be worth it.

I think you and I know just the guy for the job!

 

[DominicanFZJ80]

Excellent write-up!

How about new rubber grommets and also for linkage?

How was the transmission shifter boot? Mine is torn and is noisy while in drive with the console removed. Why not change it all.

Good point! Why not? Only reason why not for me, was that it was not on my radar at the time. Focus was those TC Collar Bushings. Also, not having any issues currently with the Transmission shifter.
The Transfer case shifter boot was in pristine condition, no cracks, no dry rot, not one indication of fatigue; wiped it down and reinstalled.

As for new rubber grommets for the linkage: yeah I would be all over replacing mine as an upcoming project. It's easy enough to crawl under the truck, pull that pin and replace those three bits.

Yep, I agree..there are a few rubber grommets in that area, transfer case shifter linkage and transmission shifter linkage
A kit with them all would be definitely be worth it.

Agree, create a kit: Four (4) TC Collar bushings with the two (2) linkage grommets and connecting pin (clip).

 

[jonheld]

Just nitpicking the nitpicker: don't transfer cases have capacitors?

Let's extrapolate on that. Once the battery is disconnected, the entire system is "floating". There is no "ground" and there is no "B+", so therefore there can be no potential. In that case, a charged capacitor cannot discharge.
Once again, those pesky laws of physics cannot be ignored. One can step on the brake pedal, throw salt over your shoulder, or swing a live chicken over your head. Each will accomplish the same thing.

 

[DominicanFZJ80]

Let's extrapolate on that. Once the battery is disconnected, the entire system is "floating". There is no "ground" and there is no "B+", so therefore there can be no potential. In that case, a charged capacitor cannot discharge.
Once again, those pesky laws of physics cannot be ignored. One can step on the brake pedal, throw salt over your shoulder, or swing a live chicken over your head. Each will accomplish the same thing.

Exactly why this is a “guideline” and not “instruction/direction”.

To each his/her own. Somethings are just personal preference and are done for piece of mind and may not be founded in physics or elsewhere.
Just saying...
But with that said, I do appreciate the input

 

[LandLocked93]

for the fastidious use of 'resituate'.

 

[benquack88]

So this is how I get my 80 back into 4-Lo with out a breaker bar?

@NLXTACY looks like I'm dropping an order here now....

 

[NLXTACY]

Plenty in stock. I totally forget @DominicanFZJ80 even wrote this up. I’m gonna steal some of your pics and do a social media post and add a link to this thread on the product page. When making these I just took for granted that it would be obvious how to change them out.

 

[DominicanFZJ80]

Plenty in stock. I totally forget @DominicanFZJ80 even wrote this up. I’m gonna steal some of your pics and do a social media post and add a link to this thread on the product page. When making these I just took for granted that it would be obvious how to change them out.

Anytime my friend.
If I take pics and do a write up with your products, feel free to reference, use images, and post to your other social media and/or product pages.
All part of being in this LandCruiser community.

 

[jonheld]

So this is how I get my 80 back into 4-Lo with out a breaker bar?

Not likely. If the transfer case lever is very stiff, then the pivot pin has corroded. You can verify this by simply removing the cotter pin and disconnecting the linkage to the transfer case. The shift lever should move with no resistance.