Transfer case e-brake, anyone have one kicking around?

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I did the ebrake conversion on a HZJ-T45 I built many many moons ago, worked great on the split case..I used all factory parts from Australia..

Might be wrong....butttt I thought I found a write up on mud were a guy took the backing plates and parts off his semi float and bolted them onto his FF? He had to fab the small brackets for the cable mounts on the axle tube..

Rob
 
Will be looking at that option. Picking up the rear full floater axle tomorrow. Need to see the condition and what is going to work out best.
Now I assume that most 40 series had a 4 speed transmission, which was shorter. Because I've seen guys put a T-C disk brake with no issues. I've had a look at mine and I have very little clearance between the drive shaft flange and the round tube cross member. The kit from TSM has a disk that is 8.5" in diameter, I can't fit that in there, I think I have enough clearance for a 6" disk.
Once I start digging a bit deeper into it I'll be able to figure it out.
 
how about home brew ,stole this from mud years ago ,, just throwing this one up to give you something to think about

copy paste below

"I added an 89 honda accord rear disc rotor.
The inside dia is the same as the back of the output flange on the T-case.
Built a bracket off the case bolts.
Its working pretty well so far, since Rubithon last year.
Basicaly, remove the output flange, remove the dust cover and studs,
place the rotor on the back of the flange and install longer bolts.
No driveshaft worrys this way!!"



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I came across that through my searches. The spline count is for the older transfer cases only. The caliper however, is one that is commonly used on electric golf and go carts. It's compact, self aligning and pretty strong, enough to work in this application.
MB1 Series Mechanical Caliper Disc Brake
They are not expensive and come in different configurations.
But due to the lack of clearance I have around the cross memeber I am not sure if I can actually put a disk on there, I would have to space it back (towards the T-C) by about an inch or more to clear that.

So I had a look at the new full float axle that showed up and the bolt pattern appears to be the same as a full float 60 axle I have. I will have to compare the backing plates and check the condition of them but I think I can transfer the backing plate, all of the brake components (including the e-brake) and the drum from the 60 to the 45 rear end.
If that works, problem solved, and no more T-C e-brake needed!
 
Fantom said:
...
So I had a look at the new full float axle that showed up and the bolt pattern appears to be the same as a full float 60 axle I have. I will have to compare the backing plates and check the condition of them but I think I can transfer the backing plate, all of the brake components (including the e-brake) and the drum from the 60 to the 45 rear end.
If that works, problem solved, and no more T-C e-brake needed!
Click to expand...

If its not the early dual cylinder style 45 axle then it will likely be all the 42/60 brake stuff will work. Same as a 60 or 7x FF where the brake parts are same as the SF. The 42 e.brake should hook right up. Much better in the long run then rigging up some golf cart caliper to your driveline.
 
It's a 1977 FJ45 axle, dual brake cylinders. But the bolt pattern on the spindle is the same and I have to confirm that the HJ61 backing plate will bolt up. If not, I will have to come up with a different solution.
Worst case I may have to do disks and the Eldorado calipers mod sooner, although I was hoping to keep everything Toyota.
 
I know that I took all the brake parts from my 60 semi and they bolted right up to the FF.
If the 4 bolt backing plate pattern is the same, I don't see why just transferring parts won't work.
 
the 77 has the same pattern as front axle spindle, that's how disk brakes are usually done using cut down knuckles and all the front brake parts. No e.brake that way. You may do well to sell off the 77 axle and buy a 70 series FF instead. Same width flange to flange and uses the later brake parts.
 
Also, just in case you didn't have enough to think about :)
I cut that torque tube and welded plates onto each end. I use 4 bolts on each plate so I can unbolt that tube, my issue was the Ranger overdrive which added length to the drive line. Though my t-case is off a 3 speed (gawd that seems so ancient now) I'd much prefer a split case, and in case you haven't delved into the four speed case, you'll soon discover why, truly a pia pushing gears through the inspection hole
 
Dan, I may still take you up on that offer ;)
Phil, this is has a 5 speed so I won't have any of the joys of dealing with a 4 speed. If I went with a T-C brake I would have to relocate that cross member as there is not enough room to fit a disk. I'll pass on that option for now. Once I have a bit more time I'll dig into both axles and see if it's a pain to change parts over.
Does the semi-float drum slide over the full float hub? or are the ID/OD different?
 
I'm guessing this is a BJ42? Is the FF a 40 series or 70 series? Are you determined to have t-case brake or
is an axle e brake ok?
 
It's a BJ42, the one axle choice I have it a 1977 FJ45. The other choice I could buy would be a newer 70 series full floater with disks and those little e-brake setups that is common to the 80s. The 70 is a bit more money and would require relocation of the spring perches as those are further apart by .5" on each side.
The only thing I am determined to have is a functioning e-brake, as long as I can have it out of the way of any danger, doesn't matter where it goes.
 
I am going with a Bj74 FF on my FJ40, which is getting a 13B-T driveline. So I'm the same, gotta have
an ebrake so that is why the FF. I'm hoping I can just weld a 'buddy' perch up against the factory perch without
removing and rewelding. Then just drill the spring pin hole, it's right along the edge of the existing perch.
I thought the difference was 1" per side. It's only 1/2"?
 
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