Tranny drain and fill - percent new fluid

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Kirt Koeller is a nationally known ZF transmission guru, and his shop is near here, so I stopped to ask about fluid changes. He doesn't trust the flushing method, prefers drain and fill on his own vehicles, even though his shop flushes transmissions. He empties his torque converter by turning over the engine with the starter, with the ignition disabled. The starter turns the engine/transmission slow enough to not damage it when it runs out of fluid, but I wouldn't crank it dry. The fluid pumps to the drain pan and out the drain plug, no need to drop the pan if you have a drain plug. Although the ZFs have a replaceable filter, so he drops the pan. You'll need to measure the fluid drained, gallons of it, to get close to the correct amount back in. Then there are procedures for warming up the fluid to check the quantity after fill, depending on whether you have a dipstick or just a raised fill hole.

Previously, I used the partial drain method on my 80, it sucked knowing I was throwing away progressively more "new" fluid with each cycle.

I sold my BMW before I got around to changing the fluid in the ZF transmission, and my 100 came with a new torque converter and new fluid a couple years ago, so I haven't had to do a fluid change since talking to Kirt.
 
flushing the transmission with cleaners and detergents I wouldnt do, but doing a simple fluid exchange using a machine is perfect. No wasted fluid, and you get it all.
 
My drains were about 3.5 qts. Have four qts ready for each drain. Regardless, you fill to the appropriate level on your dipstick - measure this level only at operating temperature and while the engine is running - i gather that the 'cold' markings are not reliable.

If you do not have a dipstick, then your procedure will be different and I would verify all of that before you get started! good luck,

The Amsoil site show 2.1 qts Initial Fill for my 99 LC?

http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclelookup.aspx?url2=1999+TOYOTA+LAND CRUISER+9
 
I think my manual says the same, but I drained 3.5. I would have 4 qts ready for your first drain/fill.

Same here on my '99: 3.5-4q comes out by draining the pan.
 
Does the gasket/washer need to be replaced on the transmission drain bolt? And the only way to refill is through the dipstick tube?
 
btw, bkgee, you must have been able to figure out the water jug problem in die hard really quickly huh?

I still haven't figured that out. :o

Sorry guys, I'm sure it's already posted somewhere, but what's the best (most ideal) brand (or type) of ATF to use? Please post both for your AT and Power steering. (I'm assuming I can just use the same stuff right?)

In addition to what was already posted, another option is Valvoline Dexron VI (it's Full Synthetic). I've successfully used it twice so far on two 4th gen 4runners, one a 4spd and one a 5spd. I did the simple cooler line pull fluid replacement on both of them, as they each had well over 100k on their original fluid. Another thought is Valvoline MaxLife as it's recommended for use where T-IV or WS fluids are used (http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/Maxlife_ATF.pdf), and it's a little less expensive, albeit, not full synthetic. (used it on a '99 Mercedes, it has a unique smell to it)

:idea: I like the idea of frequent ATF drain and fills, easy to do while you are changing the oil, keeps the ATF fresh, and prevents needing to do the fluid replacement boogie (even when it's time to pull the pan to "Inspect" (Replace) the filter, you just fill it back up and go).
 
my 100 came with a new torque converter and new fluid a couple years ago, so I haven't had to do a fluid change since talking to Kirt.

SAE studies show that around 75% of all the wear particles produced in a transmissions life will be present in the fluid within 5,000 miles of initial driving (mostly production related).

That means the first drain/ flush is the most important!
 
Yes, and depends on your year. my 01 is fill in dip stick. fill plug maybe started in 03?



Anyone know the part number for the drain gasket/washer?
 
Anyone know the part number for the drain gasket/washer?

I've reused mine 3 or 4 times now on the 100 when I've done a drain and fill and don't have any leaks out of it. Clean it up and give it a good look over while the fluid is draining. If you have doubts about it, replace it; if it looks fine, reuse it.
 
I just drained nearly 5 qts from my 2000. It seemed like a lot, so I measured it. Maybe being on some relatively high ramps led to that. Glad I had most of a bottle of M1 ATF left over from my power steering drain-fill. Sometimes things just work out. I was glad to see the stuff that drained was cherry red, and odorless, concurring with the service history that came with this new-to-me LC. I used a new washer, but this and the diffs were the first time in 20+ years I've ever used a new washer on anything other than an oil pan.
 
What should the drain bolt be torqued to?
 
while we're back on the subject, does anyone know what the bolt size/thread pitch is? I am considering installing a fumoto valve in place of the OEM plug... only downside is no magnet. but the upside is completely hassle free drains...
 
just following up from my original post... i drained out the tranny pan last weekend, it had been about 18,000 miles since the four drain/fills that i originally wrote about - those initial 4 drain/fills produced about 80% new fluid at that time.

the fluid that i drained last weekend (just over 3.5 qts) looked very clean and clear. with this last service, i now have the tranny maintenance synchronized with the engine oil change (10k miles), and considering how good the fluid looked and how easy the job is, i will probably never drop the pan for inspection and cleaning if i don't have to.

i'm still waiting for blackstone labs to send me their containers to submit an engine oil sample for analysis, will report that under a separate thread...
 
I was all set to replace my tranny fluid on my 2000 LC today through the tranny cooler lines with Mobil1 ATF. Based on the great information here my plan was to drain, fill, pull the cooler line, drain 2-3 qts, fill, repeat 3 times, and be done. Since I have a drain plug, is there any value in doing this method versus the drain, fill, drive, drain, fill, drive, etc. method?
 
I don't think I had enough coffee this morning when I asked the above question. Please disregard my NOOB moment. I'm going to go for the trans. cooler option.
 
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