Trail Tailor lockable tailgate lid (1 Viewer)

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Looks like I am finally going to tackle this install this weekend. I am still very worried about cutting things correctly, not sure why I am not understanding the different cut layout for the 2018+ tailgate. I will have to disassemble and look at it 27 times before I begin lol.
 
Seven hours later and it's finally done! I'd be ok if I never did another one of these ever again lol. The cutting is quite tedious in a few spots making sure not to cut too deep on the bracing so that you don't cut into the actual tailgate. I am not a fan of how the corners curl up, I've noticed this on most every single one I've seen pics of. Maybe the center bolts at the frame and hinge junction should be loosened a touch to keep it from warping? Has anyone come up with a solution for this?

I used the entire oil mat folded in half and I simply cut it where the close assist actuators wiring attaches in order to fit it around the wiring. I appreciate the suggestions on the mat and padding underneath, that combined should keep things quiet on even the roughest of roads. I added some edge trim to the dust flap because without it the edge of the flap would catch on the tailgate latches as you closed the tailgate. I am tossing around an idea for a material on top of the door but I'll have to see if it's feasible first. All in all I am happy to have it installed and now the extra space, no more air hoses and tools stuffed under the jump seats lol.



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Nice work.

I've only done one, but I seem to recall backing off tension on the latch bolts eliminated the corners of the door curling up.
 
Nice work.

I've only done one, but I seem to recall backing off tension on the latch bolts eliminated the corners of the door curling up.

Good to know, I'll give that a shot in the morning. I am sick of looking at it tonight lol.
 
Apologies if this has been addressed, but what’s a safe max weight limit for this area?
 
Apologies if this has been addressed, but what’s a safe max weight limit for this area?
If you mean the tailgate… The weight issue is more about weight placed when the gate is open. With the Trail Tailer cover, I believe the structure itself gets stronger, even though the limited internal structure is cut out. There are two layers added not including the door…and this really braces the structure.

*Tge weakest link is tge frustratingly poor design of the anchor where the OEM cable connects to the pillar. The anchor allowsa nasty bend ti occur in the anchod utself, which ends up letting the tailgate hang lower with too much weight.

Even so…the tailgate itself is plenty strong. Just a weird cable anchor.

Also… When you gut the tailgate, you remove the spring-loaded assisttgat runs through tge structure. A pretty useless “help” to begin with…and not much of a loss.

Only thing I wouldn’t mind adding to my 2008 tailgate (heavily modded for firearm transport) is the LX (and later 200) slow-open mechanism…since the weight of my full tailgate would slam opern without a bit of muscle-slowed opening.
 
If you mean the tailgate… The weight issue is more about weight placed when the gate is open. With the Trail Tailer cover, I believe the structure itself gets stronger, even though the limited internal structure is cut out. There are two layers added not including the door…and this really braces the structure.

*Tge weakest link is tge frustratingly poor design of the anchor where the OEM cable connects to the pillar. The anchor allowsa nasty bend ti occur in the anchod utself, which ends up letting the tailgate hang lower with too much weight.

Even so…the tailgate itself is plenty strong. Just a weird cable anchor.

Also… When you gut the tailgate, you remove the spring-loaded assisttgat runs through tge structure. A pretty useless “help” to begin with…and not much of a loss.

Only thing I wouldn’t mind adding to my 2008 tailgate (heavily modded for firearm transport) is the LX (and later 200) slow-open mechanism…since the weight of my full tailgate would slam opern without a bit of muscle-slowed opening.
I’m glad you responded because I’m also using mine for securing a firearm or two, for the moment I’m doing foam only and figured I’d be good with just that. How heavily modded are you talking here? I may be neglecting some details I should include. Feel free to PM me if you wish.
 
I’m glad you responded because I’m also using mine for securing a firearm or two, for the moment I’m doing foam only and figured I’d be good with just that. How heavily modded are you talking here? I may be neglecting some details I should include. Feel free to PM me if you wish.

I used heavy foam…(actually used multiple rectangular pads you can find at Lowes or Home Depot…about 12x24”) then essentially “sealed” the foam with indistrial vecto loop (fuzzy half of hook and loop). This also has the efffect of helping prevent moisture. I’ve had no rust in several years of nearly constant presence…

The tricky part is the fact that the inner tailgate shape is anything but uniformly flat on the deep interior side. Complicates cutting and shaping for delpth. Also the fact that a channel must be maintained so as not to disturb the cables that open the latches on each side…which cross the space to the middle release handle.

I’ve posted photos here and elsewhere. If you want more, PM me.

Here:
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The spring is what allows for the soft open feature, you lose that when you cut out the internal structure. I kind of miss it because the tailgate can slam open without it if not assisted in lowering by your hands. I will have to train the misses to remember that it no longer has the assist lol. The electric close assist actuators on either side of the tailgate are quite worthless IMHO.
 

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