How much was it to have the rust fixed? I assume it was in the rocker panel where they all rust out.
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If all of your CVS, hubs, and steering components check out and nothing is loose then go back to the basics.Kind of Reviving an Old thread here. But I am starting to have some similar symptoms. The green traction control only comes on when I am doing a hard banking left turn (sustained and speeding) and the traction control will come on. I have replaced my inner and outer tie-rods. My rack is still good. I Just replaced the rack bushings. It still is coming on, but its pretty rare, but when it does its quite alarming cuz its applying the brakes on some wild turns. I for most part have just slowed down it goes away.
Do ya'll think it could be LBJs? They are originals, and I am replacing them this weekend, but I just want to throw my symptoms out there to see if anyone else has it.
I am on 34s, 2 inch OME lift (about to swap to ironmans this weekend), and I have a diff drop kit as well.
Thanks for the clarification on the VSC. That is what I have. I have trail tailor extened links as well. It does this bone empty. I will mess with tire pressures to see if that remedies it. I run 35 psi, cuz the OME shocks are BRUTAL! but hopefully the ironmans, will fix that. I will do my LBJs, air up my tires and report back for anyone else having this issue.If all of your CVS, hubs, and steering components check out and nothing is loose then go back to the basics.
What tires and pressures are you running? My front end is very tight and almost every part is new OEM, BUT when I am loaded down with camp gear and I hit a corner a bit too hard, I get the beep beep beep and the stability control kicks in. These are big heavy trucks and when loaded, lifted, and running bigger tires you need to back errrrrr downnnnnn
I used to run my e rated tires between 36-43 PSI and it always felt a bit low.....After making sense of load ratings I'm now running around 48-50 or more for highway driving and I also swapped out my sway bar links with trail tailor extended links. The higher pressure + extended links ( especially in the rear ) have made a noticeable difference all around for me.
I haven't had the stability control kick in since and I've run of the same twisty turny roads that used to set it off.
PS - There is a difference in Traction Control and Stability Control. The beep beep beeps and sudden braking to straighten you back out is the VSC..... When you're climbing a hill and the AWD is doing it's thing, you'll feel more of an ABS feel / springy noise as the traction control is doing it's thing
I hear that! I was in the same boat running 35ish but after getting strange wear on my last two sets of KO2s I figured I was running too low. Clicking around on here, and reading load charts for my tire , it made sense to put more pressure in.Thanks for the clarification on the VSC. That is what I have. I have trail tailor extened links as well. It does this bone empty. I will mess with tire pressures to see if that remedies it. I run 35 psi, cuz the OME shocks are BRUTAL! but hopefully the ironmans, will fix that. I will do my LBJs, air up my tires and report back for anyone else having this issue.
IDK what a junction box is.Having this issue too with the same behavior in the rain. Throwing codes for both front wheel speed sensors. Shop said they were damaged. Previous owner might have had an offroading mishap because the first two brackets for the running boards are bent.
It concerns me when I see that replacing the sensors might not fix the issue. I know I do have a leak somewhere as the truck was outside for a few days in insanely heavy rain, the driver's side carpet underneath the rubber floor mats was soaked. Is there anything in the junction box that could cause this behavior?
Ya i got some pretty bad clunks on down travel on our speed bumps, and they are the originals so why not replace em. They started acting up as soon as I went to bigger tires after a baja trip. I've been spraying PB blaster on them for a month periodically for the removal, ha.I hear that! I was in the same boat running 35ish but after getting strange wear on my last two sets of KO2s I figured I was running too low. Clicking around on here, and reading load charts for my tire , it made sense to put more pressure in.
My last long highway trip I was running 50+psi on all four. Over 55psi seems like overkill unless you are towing / very heavy. I weigh in at 7,000 lbs, OEM suspension up front, Dobinsons in the rear.
The beauty of the E-rated is we can run the lower pressures off road and still maintain our proper load rating..... But once on pavement they need to be pumped up more. I'd say generally speaking 45psi is a good baseline for our stock rigs running E-rated and if you start pushing 7k lbs and up maybe a few more psi.
Air em' up and see if it helps. LBJs do tend to wear out on these rigs too so for sure so if it's sloppy it may be time to get it done .....but you'll hear clunking and other symptoms of the lower ball joint failing first, like over speed bumps, before you get the current symptoms.
Its definotly not wheel bearings I did a complete front end refresh, except LBJs. So I will be able to rule them out after this weekend. Thanks for the info though!AHC, set wrong. Can also result in tricking wheel speed sensors.
Bottom line. All components of front end work together. Get to much slop, and wheel speed sensor may sense change in speed..
Number one I see in sweeping HWY turns, is wheel bearing slop.
Did you replace your rack bushings before this problem started? If so how long before?Kind of Reviving an Old thread here. But I am starting to have some similar symptoms. The green traction control only comes on when I am doing a hard banking left turn (sustained and speeding) and the traction control will come on. I have replaced my inner and outer tie-rods. My rack is still good. I Just replaced the rack bushings. It still is coming on, but its pretty rare, but when it does its quite alarming cuz its applying the brakes on some wild turns. I for most part have just slowed down it goes away.
Do ya'll think it could be LBJs? They are originals, and I am replacing them this weekend, but I just want to throw my symptoms out there to see if anyone else has it.
I am on 34s, 2 inch OME lift (about to swap to ironmans this weekend), and I have a diff drop kit as well.
No I did it after this problem was resolved. But did Poly.Did you replace your rack bushings before this problem started? If so how long before?
Poly bushings or rubber?
Oh, I was under the impression it was still happening. Congrats on the fix!No I did it after this problem was resolved. But did Poly.
Hey Mikebro, did you have to do fender/well mods to run 34s with your 2" OME lift ? ... any off-road issues with this set-up ?Kind of Reviving an Old thread here. But I am starting to have some similar symptoms. The green traction control only comes on when I am doing a hard banking left turn (sustained and speeding) and the traction control will come on. I have replaced my inner and outer tie-rods. My rack is still good. I Just replaced the rack bushings. It still is coming on, but its pretty rare, but when it does its quite alarming cuz its applying the brakes on some wild turns. I for most part have just slowed down it goes away.
Do ya'll think it could be LBJs? They are originals, and I am replacing them this weekend, but I just want to throw my symptoms out there to see if anyone else has it.
I am on 34s, 2 inch OME lift (about to swap to ironmans this weekend), and I have a diff drop kit as well.
Yes I did the pinch weld mod (bash with BFH). And I have OWL expeditions mudflaps which help cover up the pinch weld mod. I wasn't rubbing at all with factory UCAs and rubbing with now with SPCs at the +2 caster position.Hey Mikebro, did you have to do fender/well mods to run 34s with your 2" OME lift ? ... any off-road issues with this set-up ?