Toyota Kryptonite
- Thread starter Mad Titan
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My suggestion? Move south!
Seriously, find a product that won't take the paint off but removes the surface rust and then spray it with white Rust-Oleum, since it's not in a highly viable spot.
I've used Navel Jelly, but that'll eat EVERYTHING. But that was over 45 years ago, there should be some products now that can remove the rust without removing the paint. (I hope...)
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I assume there is like a seam sealer on that, and its underneath all that, so what you are seeing it probably tip of the iceberg.
Would need to get all in there with a wire wheel or something and remove the rust, then treat, then recoat.
If its not a super long term commitment, you could buy some time with rust convertor, then probably keeping it Fluid Filmed or otherwise coated well inside and out. See if it stops in this form.
Would need to get all in there with a wire wheel or something and remove the rust, then treat, then recoat.
If its not a super long term commitment, you could buy some time with rust convertor, then probably keeping it Fluid Filmed or otherwise coated well inside and out. See if it stops in this form.
Curious what year yours is? it is not uncommon on the GX and LX
That will have to be ground down and filled by a body shop to do it right. You can't get to the inside, like @iwashmycar said that is the tip of the iceberg. Some have said it is ~$100 at some body shops.
I would say it depends on how long you plan to keep it. For 11 years I climbed under the Taco and fluid filmed the frame in the Fall. Worked so so when the dealer inspected it from the recall he said it was in good shape but it still was rusted... Not all the way through but rusted none the less. Fluid Film is wash resistant but in the land of 10,000 Lakes wash off is going to happen sooner than later if you go off pavement at all.
My GX spent winters in Texas and summers in Mn. so never seen salt. Only had it a couple of weeks and this time took it in to have it done professionally with a shop that uses NHOU. It is Fluid Film that Dupont put on steroids and has high creep and wash off resistance. It actually creeps upward. He used several different wands and changed air pressure often to atomoize it differently depending on where he sprayed. After watching him do it I will never do it myself again.
He spent more time getting inside body cavities and places I never dreamed of then the frame. He also mentioned that the doors were lacking in weep holes to allow drainage so took care of that. And sprayed inside all of the doors and tailgate. NHOU oil was creeping UP the outside of the rear door for a year later. Last fall I had the frame done with a shop that uses Wool Wax Creep and Crawl. He touched up inside the body cavities and said they were all still fine from the NHOU Oil treatment.
If you plan on keeping it for a long time I'd take it to a body shop and have it repaired correctly. Then NHOU Oil the body cavities and then Wool Wax the frame. Or something similar. If it is a good shop odds are they will add another weep hole in each door so water doesn't pool on those bottom edges.
That will have to be ground down and filled by a body shop to do it right. You can't get to the inside, like @iwashmycar said that is the tip of the iceberg. Some have said it is ~$100 at some body shops.
I would say it depends on how long you plan to keep it. For 11 years I climbed under the Taco and fluid filmed the frame in the Fall. Worked so so when the dealer inspected it from the recall he said it was in good shape but it still was rusted... Not all the way through but rusted none the less. Fluid Film is wash resistant but in the land of 10,000 Lakes wash off is going to happen sooner than later if you go off pavement at all.
My GX spent winters in Texas and summers in Mn. so never seen salt. Only had it a couple of weeks and this time took it in to have it done professionally with a shop that uses NHOU. It is Fluid Film that Dupont put on steroids and has high creep and wash off resistance. It actually creeps upward. He used several different wands and changed air pressure often to atomoize it differently depending on where he sprayed. After watching him do it I will never do it myself again.
He spent more time getting inside body cavities and places I never dreamed of then the frame. He also mentioned that the doors were lacking in weep holes to allow drainage so took care of that. And sprayed inside all of the doors and tailgate. NHOU oil was creeping UP the outside of the rear door for a year later. Last fall I had the frame done with a shop that uses Wool Wax Creep and Crawl. He touched up inside the body cavities and said they were all still fine from the NHOU Oil treatment.
If you plan on keeping it for a long time I'd take it to a body shop and have it repaired correctly. Then NHOU Oil the body cavities and then Wool Wax the frame. Or something similar. If it is a good shop odds are they will add another weep hole in each door so water doesn't pool on those bottom edges.
bad advice... (on the paint)My suggestion? Move south!
Seriously, find a product that won't take the paint off but removes the surface rust and then spray it with white Rust-Oleum, since it's not in a highly viable spot.
I've used Navel Jelly, but that'll eat EVERYTHING. But that was over 45 years ago, there should be some products now that can remove the rust without removing the paint. (I hope...)
theres water weep holes in the bottom of the door, might be behind the rubber seal (cant remember)
get in there with crown, fluid film, anything... use the red wand extender and spray the whole bottom of the door inside full till it runs out the holes
no paint
Another option is if that's the only place you're see rust, go find a new door from a wrecking yard and call it done!
Ahhhhh, to have that kind of property to be able to have a doner parts car parked on the side, out of view!Oooorrrrrr, buy a GX with a trashed engine/trans from a southern state as a future part supply donor.
Would you be able to post some pictures of the weep holes the shop added?Curious what year yours is? it is not uncommon on the GX and LX
View attachment 4089923
That will have to be ground down and filled by a body shop to do it right. You can't get to the inside, like @iwashmycar said that is the tip of the iceberg. Some have said it is ~$100 at some body shops.
I would say it depends on how long you plan to keep it. For 11 years I climbed under the Taco and fluid filmed the frame in the Fall. Worked so so when the dealer inspected it from the recall he said it was in good shape but it still was rusted... Not all the way through but rusted none the less. Fluid Film is wash resistant but in the land of 10,000 Lakes wash off is going to happen sooner than later if you go off pavement at all.
My GX spent winters in Texas and summers in Mn. so never seen salt. Only had it a couple of weeks and this time took it in to have it done professionally with a shop that uses NHOU. It is Fluid Film that Dupont put on steroids and has high creep and wash off resistance. It actually creeps upward. He used several different wands and changed air pressure often to atomoize it differently depending on where he sprayed. After watching him do it I will never do it myself again.
He spent more time getting inside body cavities and places I never dreamed of then the frame. He also mentioned that the doors were lacking in weep holes to allow drainage so took care of that. And sprayed inside all of the doors and tailgate. NHOU oil was creeping UP the outside of the rear door for a year later. Last fall I had the frame done with a shop that uses Wool Wax Creep and Crawl. He touched up inside the body cavities and said they were all still fine from the NHOU Oil treatment.
If you plan on keeping it for a long time I'd take it to a body shop and have it repaired correctly. Then NHOU Oil the body cavities and then Wool Wax the frame. Or something similar. If it is a good shop odds are they will add another weep hole in each door so water doesn't pool on those bottom edges.
Apologies for the detour, but Cold Iron were you on the run pictured? Just curious, I had lunch today with Steve (he is in the 200 in front). He just used my shop building to install a new rear bumper.
My GX spent winters in Texas and summers in Mn. so never seen salt. Only had it a couple of weeks and this time took it in to have it done professionally with a shop that uses NHOU. It is Fluid Film that Dupont put on steroids and has high creep and wash off resistance. It actually creeps upward. He used several different wands and changed air pressure often to atomoize it differently depending on where he sprayed. After watching him do it I will never do it myself again.
No I run solo but follow the Mn. Overlander group on FB.
I know that spot well, it is on the South side of Devil Track Lake in Cook County. I spend the month of Oct. in Cook at a cabin half way up the Gunflint Trail ~32 mile mark. Spend most of my time well North of Devil Track but go down to Grand Marais once a week or so. Know most of the trails and roads in Cook and Lake County. That spot is another one of many beaver flooded areas they are a nuisance everywhere. Sometimes I run the dams with the Polaris they seldom will support the GX and sometimes not even the Ranger
Only one way to find out even after you walk it LOL.