Todays wrenching (3 Viewers)

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in prepping for the gathering as well, I just converted to an air actuator for my rear locker. got tired of messing with it. works perfect and now I have onboard air as well. I still need to make a guard. I just joined yankee toys and I'm excited to get out this weekend. Now onto the front which worked not to long ago..
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landtank said:
sorry I missed this. The power only passes to the rear actuator motor after a solenoid in the locker ecu is picked via the actuator. I know this might seem jibberish, but unfortunately it's accurate.

Basically there are three contacts on the rotating assembly within the actuator. These three contacts control direction and limits for the motor movement. If there is a contact problem here then the motor will not move. Very common on these old actuators.
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no worries. I seem to have gotten both lockers to work..... for now....
 
I've been working on a refurb on my hard top, and with the milder temps here in MA today, was able to get a third coat of Dura-Bak on the inside of the top.

Pic is from the 2nd coat. Just ignore the psychos in the garage windows.

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swelltimes said:
I've been working on a refurb on my hard top, and with the milder temps here in MA today, was able to get a third coat of Dura-Bak on the inside of the top.

Pic is from the 2nd coat. Just ignore the psychos in the garage windows.

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Great friends.
 
On day 4 or so of driving my truck again post carb rebuild by me, new FC, WP, rad, repaired keyway... Lubed the acc linkage today and tightened the bolts holding the carb down and had to suction out some coolant from my res that was too full... as a nurse, its a good thing to have access to O2 tubing.... I can't believe how far I have come in this cruisers' repairs since my first cruiser back in '08.
 
Darn firefox apparently won't let me upload pixs unless its updated of which it is now. So not 100% sure why my res is so overfull except that I started overly full previous to the new rad. Trimmed the hose and made sure both ends of the straw are clear. Far too many times have my lips made contact with minute amounts of coolant in the last few days. Bleh.

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@Chris Rauscher.... @rain76king, Bob would you mind tagging Kina here for this guy up in Maine seeking help with a truck or engine?
 
Front springs were shot, so are being replaced with some Old Man Emus.

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Old bastard pack made from 2 or 3 other 48" rear 4runner springs. New springs are 2" lift for same said 4 runner. I may have to modify them a bit, but it gives me a great pack to start with. Paying with ride heights tomorrow night.

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Has anyone worked on their FJ-40 center arm in recent years? I've got a rebuild kit of mine (6/77), and am planning ~ 4 hrs., for it. I've read some threads and the write-up in the FSM, just seeing if anyone has any feedback as to how long this repair took them, etc. Thanks!
 
4 hours is plenty of time. Hardest part will be getting the arm off.
 
Thought I'd show off to local crowd what I have been up to on my 60... Pulled the head this weekend with the help of a friend lifting it off. And brought her to a machine shop for resurfacing (manifold side has warpage, already had the manifolds resurfaced months ago, my miss cuz I hadn't measured the side of the head the right way back then). New aftermarket Japanese valves in route from a very generous mud business man impressed at my willingness to jump in where many won't. Will lap them in and hope the top end rebuild will take care of my issues of lowish compression (2 & 5) and high in the rest. Seeing the condition of my valves is all the more indication this truck needed some hardcore TLC.
I really want to get this truck on the road. Its been too long! Albeit very fun and the experience she has given me is huge. All basically done by my own hand by myself here in my driveway.

Baby wearing cylinder head.webp


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Carbon coated intake valve.webp


Pitted Exhaust Valve.webp
 
NeverGiveUpYota said:
Thought I'd show off to local crowd what I have been up to on my 60... Pulled the head this weekend with the help of a friend lifting it off. And brought her to a machine shop for resurfacing (manifold side has warpage, already had the manifolds resurfaced months ago, my miss cuz I hadn't measured the side of the head the right way back then). New aftermarket Japanese valves in route from a very generous mud business man impressed at my willingness to jump in where many won't. Will lap them in and hope the top end rebuild will take care of my issues of lowish compression (2 & 5) and high in the rest. Seeing the condition of my valves is all the more indication this truck needed some hardcore TLC.
I really want to get this truck on the road. Its been too long! Albeit very fun and the experience she has given me is huge. All basically done by my own hand by myself here in my driveway.

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:clap::clap::clap:

(Hope you're doing valve guides as well)
 
fourlow&go said:
:clap::clap::clap:

(Hope you're doing valve guides as well)
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First inspection of the guides by the machinist checked out all good. But I am doing the seals which came in the gasket kit. There are so many parts to the system to keep tract. Feel free to direct me a bit more if you have a moment.
 
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By the look of the exhaust valve I would question the integrity of the valve seat. Pics?
Lapping a new valve to an old worn out seat can be throwing money away. The problem with this kind of work is, in for a penny, in for a pound, don't skimp on seats and guides. Check the pistons for side to side slop, if you can visibly move them side to side you should probably do the lower end too. Also check for a ridge at the top of cylinders and any vertical gouges. General rule of thumb is if you can catch a finger nail, it should be redone. I've seen many times people do just the head only to have the lower end be bad as well.
 
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