To Pull or Not To Pull Engine?

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Joined
Aug 10, 2022
Threads
9
Messages
69
Location
Harker Heights, TX
2006 LC and I have a set of DT headers and XForce exhaust to install. I'm also going to be do WP/TB, pulleys, hoses, engine mounts, dif bushings, heater T's, PS lines. Also Nomad valve body, outer tie-rods and steering rack bellows, cat-back exhaust, sway bar end links, rear upper/lower control arms. I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff too.

Would pulling the engine to do all of this be worth it?
 
yes, in my opinion it would. Its not that difficult in the 100 series, just make sure you have a good work area and you need the "bigger" 2 Ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight, do not try it with the smaller engine hoist

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yes, in my opinion it would. Its not that difficult in the 100 series, just make sure you have a good work area and you need the "bigger" 2 Ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight, do not try it with the smaller engine hoist

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Need the two ton due to lifting height? Neighbor has one that I can use, but I'm pretty sure it is only a one ton.
 
Should be able to do it with the 1 ton if just the motor. If pulling motor and trans together the 2 ton will work better and give more room for a leveler.

Can also air down the front tires to drop the front of the truck and ease the lift over the rad support.
 
Should be able to do it with the 1 ton if just the motor. If pulling motor and trans together the 2 ton will work better and give more room for a leveler.

Can also air down the front tires to drop the front of the truck and ease the lift over the rad support.
I can confirm that a 1 ton hoist will work, but I pulled my front tires and dropped the front as low as it would go without the rotors touching the concrete.
 
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The advertised weight for the short block is 130–kg, both heads are 32–kg together and the transmission is 80–kg. That adds up to about 500–lbs, dry, if my math is correct. The load capacity isn't the problem, it's the reach. I extended my 1–ton with an longer beam. It works fine.
 
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