To Pull or Not To Pull Engine?

[txtuffluck]

2006 LC and I have a set of DT headers and XForce exhaust to install. I'm also going to be do WP/TB, pulleys, hoses, engine mounts, dif bushings, heater T's, PS lines. Also Nomad valve body, outer tie-rods and steering rack bellows, cat-back exhaust, sway bar end links, rear upper/lower control arms. I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff too.

Would pulling the engine to do all of this be worth it?

 

[excessive]

yes, in my opinion it would. Its not that difficult in the 100 series, just make sure you have a good work area and you need the "bigger" 2 Ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight, do not try it with the smaller engine hoist

 

[White Stripe]

Make sure you do the rear main seal if you pull it

 

[Aracobuilt]

Make sure you do the rear main seal if you pull it

I was just about to post the same thing!

 

[txtuffluck]

yes, in my opinion it would. Its not that difficult in the 100 series, just make sure you have a good work area and you need the "bigger" 2 Ton engine hoist from Harbor Freight, do not try it with the smaller engine hoist

View attachment 4051058

Need the two ton due to lifting height? Neighbor has one that I can use, but I'm pretty sure it is only a one ton.

 

[Zuberg]

Should be able to do it with the 1 ton if just the motor. If pulling motor and trans together the 2 ton will work better and give more room for a leveler.

Can also air down the front tires to drop the front of the truck and ease the lift over the rad support.

 

[LJE]

Should be able to do it with the 1 ton if just the motor. If pulling motor and trans together the 2 ton will work better and give more room for a leveler.

Can also air down the front tires to drop the front of the truck and ease the lift over the rad support.

I can confirm that a 1 ton hoist will work, but I pulled my front tires and dropped the front as low as it would go without the rotors touching the concrete.

 

[Malleus]

The advertised weight for the short block is 130–kg, both heads are 32–kg together and the transmission is 80–kg. That adds up to about 500–lbs, dry, if my math is correct. The load capacity isn't the problem, it's the reach. I extended my 1–ton with an longer beam. It works fine.

 

[txtuffluck]

Any other recommendations while it is out?

Figured I may do the "Big 3/4" wiring upgrade, and while I have the alternator(that was soaked in PS fluid) out, maybe grab a Toyota-reman Sequoia 260 alternator?

If there is anyone in central TX that wants to come take a look while it is out, just DM me. I really thought that I had every connector disconnected

 

[GTV]

Any other recommendations while it is out?

Figured I may do the "Big 3/4" wiring upgrade, and while I have the alternator(that was soaked in PS fluid) out, maybe grab a Toyota-reman Sequoia 260 alternator?

For the Big 3, don’t run a firewall to engine ground unless you love listening to the inner workings of your engine inside the cabin.

Sequoia alternator is 150a. If your alt was still working ok I’d just hose it down really well with some electrical parts cleaner. It’s cheap and easy to replace the brushes, they’re usually the first parts to wear out.

Consider putting a proper filter on the SAIS, or deleting it entirely.

 

[txtuffluck]

For the Big 3, don’t run a firewall to engine ground unless you love listening to the inner workings of your engine inside the cabin.

Sequoia alternator is 150a. If your alt was still working ok I’d just hose it down really well with some electrical parts cleaner. It’s cheap and easy to replace the brushes, they’re usually the first parts to wear out.

Consider putting a proper filter on the SAIS, or deleting it entirely.

Absolutely do not want added noise...I have collected everything for the NAV-Delete and I have planned a relatively nice SQ audio system.
260 instead of 150 is way too fat fingered....may be cool though. lol
What is the deal with filter on the SAIS, or deleting it entirely?

 

[Patassa]

For the Big 3, don’t run a firewall to engine ground unless you love listening to the inner workings of your engine inside the cabin.

Alternator whine in the stereo? I ran one, but I haven't powered up new stereo yet to see if it's there.

 

[GTV]

Absolutely do not want added noise...I have collected everything for the NAV-Delete and I have planned a relatively nice SQ audio system.
260 instead of 150 is way too fat fingered....may be cool though. lol
What is the deal with filter on the SAIS, or deleting it entirely?

130a is stock so 150a isn’t going to set any records. Not worth it if yours is working, IMO.
SAIS pump is the snail thing under your intake, it’s emissions stuff. The internal foam filter breaks down and gets sucked into the system, causing faults. The fix is to remove the foam and replace it with a remote filter. Do a search here for details.

 

[GTV]

Alternator whine in the stereo? I ran one, but I haven't powered up new stereo yet to see if it's there.

It acts like a stethoscope transmitting and boosting every engine noise directly into the cabin. Go from the fender well to the engine instead.

 

[Patassa]

It acts like a stethoscope transmitting and boosting every engine noise directly into the cabin. Go from the fender well to the engine instead.

But I get to hear my supercharger whiiiiiiiiiine this way

 

[txtuffluck]

Sprayed the header nuts with PB blaster about 48hrs ago. No broken studs or stripped nuts. Passenger side 3 studs came out with the nuts, Driver side 6 studs came out with the nuts. I have new studs and nuts for everything.

 

[excessive]

if it were me, i would do the starter, knock sensor connectors, heater hoses, and rear main seal while it's all out.

 

[txtuffluck]

if it were me, i would do the starter, knock sensor connectors, heater hoses, and rear main seal while it's all out.

Have everything you mention, except for starter and knock sensor connectors, but I've added them along with the parts for the SAI mod.

 

[txtuffluck]

130a is stock so 150a isn’t going to set any records. Not worth it if yours is working, IMO.
SAIS pump is the snail thing under your intake, it’s emissions stuff. The internal foam filter breaks down and gets sucked into the system, causing faults. The fix is to remove the foam and replace it with a remote filter. Do a search here for details.