Thoughts on this Vehicle? (1 Viewer)

To Buy or Not to Buy

  • Buy for $6.5k

    Votes: 1 9.1%
  • Run Away

    Votes: 4 36.4%
  • Negotiate Down

    Votes: 3 27.3%
  • Negotiate Way Down

    Votes: 3 27.3%

  • Total voters
    11

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Yea, the wheels are terrible, 100% replacing those immediately. Partner actually likes the seat covers but I am already looking at options for replacing depending on how bad the seats underneath are. I am expecting the worst and going from there.

Unfortunately no useful pictures of those things, but the mechanic confirmed no rust underneath and that everything else looked alright. I will have to wait until I see the truck in person to get a feel for engine bay condition and the undercarriage. Depending on how it looks I can use that for more negotiation power.
 
By the condition of the 2nd and 3rd row it's clear the previous owners didn't trash them. Those don't appear in need of anything more than some cleaner and protector.

Wrong color, but this is the potential for seat rehab with the $350 Lseat leathers and some sweat equity.


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Those look fantastic! Thanks for sharing. I was following another post about Ridies which were running about $500 with arm rests and center console. Either way, options are available.
 
Definitely a truck work going out to see. On topics not discussed already.
  • Exhaust manifold leak
    • This was common on early 100s. Symptom was a ticking sound on cold startup that sounded like a sloppy lifter. Went away as engine warmed/metal expanded. For me (back 15 years ago I guess) I first replaced the manifold gasket. Didn't solve it, so I replaced the manifold, which did. Easy to do from the passenger side, but a lot of people (like this seller) just live with it.
  • Oil residue at engine to transmission junction
    • likely rear main seal where weepage is common and at this mileage a few drips normal. Not an easy fix at all; depends on how much oil you can tolerate on your driveway.
  • Tailgate rusty next to latch
    • given it's not visible on outside, you'll probably want to leave it, but look for a leaking 3rd light or window seal as a water source to stop entry into the hatch
  • Power steering hose from reservoir to pump is leaking
    • Could be hose fittings or hose. It's the low pressure line, easy/cheap to fix, do it with PS rack replacement
  • Lower radiator hose at thermostat housing is seeping
 
Yeah, add new wheels to the price. Those gotta go.
 
So just to update anyone interested, seeing the car tomorrow at 11am PST and making a decision from there. I’ll post some picture If anyone wants to offer tips for what they see.
 
So the truck ended up being in better condition than I thought it would be with a clean engine bay and absolutely no rust underneath. The owner wouldn't budge on the price, but I went ahead with it anyway and am more than happy with my decision. Excited to get to work! I am sure I will be posting questions and asking for advice as I move forward. Thank you to everyone for your input!

Drove back with it yesterday and it rode pretty well. Probably the biggest concern was I found one of the heater tee's hoses was coming off the bottom nipple. I weighed the options of either attempting to push the hose and clip back on or leaving it be and taking a chance. Decided against trying to fix it over fear of either cracking the tee or causing a leak. After ~450 miles it stayed on! On the drive I noticed the steering was pretty loose and the slip indicator issue (which the owner disclosed) did occur once so those will be priorities to look at along with replacing the heater tee's since their age is unknown. I found a post about a slip indicator issue and it seems the steering bushing and rack are possible solutions, so I will start there to take care of two birds with one stone.

In other news, the seats are in great condition with only minor cracking and the rust was just as @loganbrew had shown. Any tips for sealing up the 3rd brake light?

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Awesome! Glad it worked out. If the original shine of the electroplating and clean galvanized coating on the bolt heads is any indication, that'll be an enjoyable rig to wrench on. You'll want to confirm if there is a leak path behind the hatch by pulling the interior panel and look for water stains. Could be the light or any number of things, but I used some vulcanizing rubber tape from my electrical kit SCOTCHFIL 3M | Tapes, Adhesives, Materials | DigiKey to seal the light.

For the TRAC/ABS, there is a test while driving with cruise control that might help bring more validity to the hypothesis that a loose rack is the cause.

Enjoy! And welcome to the Hundy club!
 

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