Builds "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta (5 Viewers)

[Tank5]

I have been working on routing for my fuel and brake lines for a while. I finish everything up to the firewall today. I was trying to keep the lines as far from or shielded from the exhaust and headers as best I could. I will add some heat shield wrapping later on to help. This is what I came up with. I hope to install some bolt on sliders at some point, so I made sure the lines sat above the frame to allow room for slider mounting.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Looks good!! What size and type of pipe are you using? SS?

 

[Tank5]

Looks good!! What size and type of pipe are you using? SS?

The fuel lines are ss from Jeggs, 3/8 and 5/16, The brake lines are recycled from a. 80 I parted out. The clamps for mounting the lines are aluminum from a bronco store and come sized to fit the lines I used.

 

[Tank5]

I reinstalled the exhaust with new gaskets but failed to buy new bolts, so I put it together with what I had but will swap new hardware in after it arrives.

I just might be able start the motor soon to test the harness.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

You have room to add some exhaust dump valves! Make it more of a sleeper than it is. Easily add to the Hp. Is that a OEM silencer?

 

[Tank5]

You have room to add some exhaust dump valves! Make it more of a sleeper than it is. Easily add to the Hp. Is that a OEM silencer?

What are exhaust dump valves, not sure I know what those are? The muffler is from an FJ Cruiser. I am hoping that after I have it running and driving and after a little time to work out any kinks to have a nice custom exhaust done. That might be the time to get fancy with it. What I put together is functional but not real pretty.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Dumps right after the headers, bypasses tail pipes.

 

[Tank5]

I could use some advice. Thinking ahead for when I do try to start this engine is there anything I should do to prep it. I ask because the engine has been sitting for 5 plus years now. I bought it from another member who maintained it and it was running fine when he rolled his 100. It has been sitting since I got it. I plan to change the oil. Other than that should I do anything else before starting it?

 

[Tank5]

Dumps right after the headers, bypasses tail pipes.

View attachment 2772531

Those look interesting. I will have to research them a little to see what I think. I am not sure I like the idea of dumping exhaust under the cab. Riding in the tin can is hot and loud enough.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Oil pan content will most likely tell you if anything weird happened.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Those look interesting. I will have to research them a little to see what I think. I am not sure I like the idea of dumping exhaust under the cab. Riding in the tin can is hot and loud enough.

It’s what the cool cats do on Rodeo drive and the Las Vegas trip. My brother has a Maserati that uses these in sport mode where all accessories Hp and power hogs are shut down, including AC. Just ribbin ya. You have greatness there already!

 

[Dizzy]

Is it possible to prime the oil pump? On the original motor, you pull the distributor, and spin the oil pump with a hacked up screw driver inserted in a drill motor. Also/or, you put a tiny amount of oil down the spark plug hole the night before to wet the ring - which makes more sense on a non-V straight six for wetting the entire ring, as the ring sits somewhat horizontal.

I saw the male-to-male hydraulic line couplers midway on your brake line. That was the same conclusion that I came up with, as, it seemed no amount of web research would definitively get me a hydraulic line material that was up to par with something that came with a new vehicle.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Not sure what your heat shielding plans are, but that trans gives off an insane amount of heat. It liquefied the FatMat butyl while indicated temps were ~190F. 80s and 100s both run variants of 1/4" insulation to combat this. It's high on my to-do list.

 

[Tank5]

Not sure what your heat shielding plans are, but that trans gives off an insane amount of heat. It liquefied the FatMat butyl while indicated temps were ~190F. 80s and 100s both run variants of 1/4" insulation to combat this. It's high on my to-do list.

That is good to know. I was not going to run any on the floors before you shared that. I might have to do the lizard skin underneath and see if that helps. Any suggestions?

I have been watching your 60 build for a little while. I was late to tune in until I found it. I like it! I am considering deleting the charcoal filter box on my 2uz. Did you keep yours or delete it? Curious if it causes any issues.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

I don't have the problem solved yet myself. Toyotas shielding is some quality stuff. I'm gonna price it out and make it fit if it's reasonable.

I don't have any evap controls installed. I have 2 to 3 codes depending on the conditions because of that. But given how well the truck drives out otherwise, I'm putting those systems back in. I want 0 codes now.

 

[Tank5]

@Zjohnsonua I will look forward to seeing how that works out for you.

I expect to have some codes on mine but I will as told they don’t affect the drivability. I will try to eliminate as many codes as I but I think room will be tight under the hood which why I was thinking about deleting the canister.

 

[archie73]

I could use some advice. Thinking ahead for when I do try to start this engine is there anything I should do to prep it. I ask because the engine has been sitting for 5 plus years now. I bought it from another member who maintained it and it was running fine when he rolled his 100. It has been sitting since I got it. I plan to change the oil. Other than that should I do anything else before starting it?

I went through this recently- wife, son and father in law were all standing by seeing if I was any good. I had claimed it would be done for summer cruising and it was mid July. Turned the key and the starter cranked but no fire. Wife was disappointed, son was wondering what the big deal was and the father in law- I have no clue. I was elated- it did something!!!! I had pruned the harness down from YouTube videos, the engine was a total $450 gamble, all my skills are self taught and half the time I’m winging it. Now it runs- with some hiccups, but it runs. You’ll be fine and have some hiccups, but that’s the fun part. Enjoy your moment.

 

[samc2447]

That is good to know. I was not going to run any on the floors before you shared that. I might have to do the lizard skin underneath and see if that helps. Any suggestions?

I've used Lizard skin heat control and it definitely will help. You can spray the sound control on as well. Use their gun to spray it. I've tried other guns with it and they don't spray it as well.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

As for the charcoal canister, I'd recommend putting one in somewhere, even if it isn't electronically controlled. I tried to run a canister but found my vent line is plugged - so I had to open the vent circuit at the vapor separator. Constant smell of fumes on the trail until I get to about half a tank. Not good, and easily resolved.

 

[Tank5]

@samc2447 That is good to know. What thickness did you spray?