I don’t appear to have any unconnected words and not open relay receptacles.
The infamous carb cooling fan
- Thread starter sk8salomon
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Awesome! I will be happy to order one when I can figure out what else I am missing from the other end. Do you make the whole line, including the other side?
Relay receptacles? No one said anything about those.
It's a wire you're looking for. They always rot off. If you look at your pic, the ring terminal is still on the temp sensor, but the wire isn't. That's why you're looking for a wire. If your carb fan turns on after you shut the truck off, someone already connected that wire to a ground instead of the sensor, which is also acceptable.
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That’s what I am saying…I have no extra unconnected wires, which is why I was asking where the other end connects.
OK, I understand. That wire isn't on my truck anymore.
@Hokie LX can you grab a pic of the carb cooling fan wire on your truck? I think we've talked about this topic before.
Yep, sorry. I'm not finding what was left over of the wire, or any back-half of this receptacle:
the main reason i only make these KUSTOM 1 at a time to order , is because several different scenarios can exist here as @GLTHFJ60
is suggesting , and his eagle eyes spotted your severed end that is re-attached to your chassis by a PO or somebody other then your self ?
this is why i request photos of your original drivers side fender LHD vehicle original sau-harness connector , providing you still have one in place so i can best
assess the unique situation and required needed parts to supply you to repair this common but often special needs parts wise carb. cooling fan wires ,
connectors and sub. harness topic .
on one end is a standard across the board ring terminal , special in the fact it's a thinker JIS / JDM solid BRASS gauge material , fender wire harness side , are
several variables , including but not limited to oem connector housing profile and length in millimeters form the OEM Connection point to the ring terminal
THERMO sensor male threads them selves .
do not assume you have a single terminal bay green 1 pin connector like i show above , i have run across more then a few connector and connection variations
some of witch are NOT green also
photos are your best friend here , post several , if your not sure , and maybe someone can spot the sub harness section too ,
matt
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@ColoradoLC here is my wire. It comes off the wiring loom just past the plug for the brake master level sensor. It’s circled in both pics and tried to take one further away and closer to give you context. This is how it is on my 1984. However, it looks to have been hacked a bit by one of the POs. It works though.
That's because there is no connector for this wire. It just comes out of the harness. Follow @Hokie LX s advice. It was the same on my 87 harness.
On my 84, the wire and connector were still attached to the sensor, but on the harness side of the plug, the wire got brittle and broke. I had to look for a while until I saw the stub hanging out of the harness. That is probably what you are experiencing is that it broke near the harness, AND fell off the sensor, so there is nothing to see. As HokieLX is showing, trace that harness from near the brake cylinder forward, feeling with your hand to see if you can find the stub.
Thanks @ToyotaMatt. That's what I was hoping. Tell me if these pictures help. I can also try and get my phone up there from under my 60 if these aren't clear enough.
thanks @Hokie LX that helps. I’ll see if I can find where that wire used to come out of my loom
Got it. I saw that from @Hokie LX ’s picture. Thanks!
Very helpful. I’m also betting this is what I’m seeing, et or not seeing in this case, but now I know what to look for and where.
Okay @ToyotaMatt , I’ve found my wire after some searching. It was blocked by a sleeve that looked tight, but I slid it down and found the missing wire.
Here is a pretty good picture of the wire. Let me know if you need additional pictures.
Here is a pretty good picture of the wire. Let me know if you need additional pictures.
Given that the 62 doesn't require it anymore but many still have them installed (I still have my actual fan but not the temp switch), I'm looking into rounding the short bit of duct that comes off of it and either riveting or TIG welding (I like TIG; it's pretty) a short curve of exhaust tube to it to direct air to the alternator and keep it cool, helping to extend the life of the rectifier and therefore the alternator itself.
Considering a simple temp control or a manual switch using a PWM. Temp control would take longer to figure out since I simply lack experience designing them, but would be the best route to take IMO.
Considering a simple temp control or a manual switch using a PWM. Temp control would take longer to figure out since I simply lack experience designing them, but would be the best route to take IMO.
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I went manual control with a new timer relay. There's a rocker switch in the dash, click it and the fan runs for 15 minutes.
The relay is a Hella 996152131.
Pin 30 is constant 12V.
Pin 31 is ground.
Pin 151 is the timer trigger, controlled by the dash switch.
Pin 87 is 12v out to the carb fan.
To set the maximum time the relay runs (15 minutes), set both dip switches to the off position, and turn the tiny dial screw all the way clockwise.
Amazon product ASIN B003C508XO
I bought this switch because I wanted the fan graphic
I ended up using this switch because I wanted a single throw, and switched the faceplate for the one with the fan graphic.
Amazon product ASIN B010KZBN1Y
I used a separate relay to light the rocker switch while the carb fan is running, by tapping pin 87 on the timer relay.
Ground the wire from the carb fan that went to the temp sensor.
The relay is a Hella 996152131.
Pin 30 is constant 12V.
Pin 31 is ground.
Pin 151 is the timer trigger, controlled by the dash switch.
Pin 87 is 12v out to the carb fan.
To set the maximum time the relay runs (15 minutes), set both dip switches to the off position, and turn the tiny dial screw all the way clockwise.
Amazon product ASIN B003C508XO
I bought this switch because I wanted the fan graphic
OTRATTW Carling Technologies Contura II Rocker Switch, FAN, WHITE LENS | eBay
O-Rings installed on the incandescent lights and the center shaft to seal out water, dust, and debris. Certified to IP68 for front panel components of the actual switch only. Switch Depth. Panel Thickness Range.
www.ebay.com
I ended up using this switch because I wanted a single throw, and switched the faceplate for the one with the fan graphic.
Amazon product ASIN B010KZBN1Y
I used a separate relay to light the rocker switch while the carb fan is running, by tapping pin 87 on the timer relay.
Ground the wire from the carb fan that went to the temp sensor.
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anyone have a wire diagram for one of these?