The infamous carb cooling fan

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The wire should be visible from the top. Snoop around below your carb fan from there to the engine and sticking out of the wire harness near there will be a wire that's not connected to anything without a connector. That's going to be it.
I don’t appear to have any unconnected words and not open relay receptacles.
 
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- i kustom make the thermo sensor sub-harnesses to order ....

- there are more then a few connector and plug varations i have run into


- the 60 distance is longer to the fender chassis harness , due to the wider engine bay


- i would need a over all length in millimeters please

- and a klear photos of the said fender FEMALE connector plug usually there GREEN , but NOT all the time


- please PM me to discuss further


u absolutely need flame proof fabric wire loom or the pcv jacket of normal will will indeed melt off and could ignite in hot summer temps ..........











View attachment 3065766View attachment 3065767View attachment 3065768

Awesome! I will be happy to order one when I can figure out what else I am missing from the other end. Do you make the whole line, including the other side?
 

GLTHFJ60

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I don’t appear to have any unconnected words and not open relay receptacles.

Relay receptacles? No one said anything about those.

It's a wire you're looking for. They always rot off. If you look at your pic, the ring terminal is still on the temp sensor, but the wire isn't. That's why you're looking for a wire. If your carb fan turns on after you shut the truck off, someone already connected that wire to a ground instead of the sensor, which is also acceptable.
 
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Relay receptacles? No one said anything about those.

It's a wire you're looking for. They always rot off. If you look at your pic, the ring terminal is still on the temp sensor, but the wire isn't. That's why you're looking for a wire. If your carb fan turns on after you shut the truck off, someone already connected that wire to a ground instead of the sensor, which is also acceptable.
That’s what I am saying…I have no extra unconnected wires, which is why I was asking where the other end connects.
 

GLTHFJ60

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That’s what I am saying…I have no extra unconnected wires, which is why I was asking where the other end connects.

OK, I understand. That wire isn't on my truck anymore.

@Hokie LX can you grab a pic of the carb cooling fan wire on your truck? I think we've talked about this topic before.
 
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OK, I understand. That wire isn't on my truck anymore.

@Hokie LX can you grab a pic of the carb cooling fan wire on your truck? I think we've talked about this topic before.

Yep, sorry. I'm not finding what was left over of the wire, or any back-half of this receptacle:

BB812E11-E02F-4416-B627-661BABBD1154.jpeg
 

ToyotaMatt

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Awesome! I will be happy to order one when I can figure out what else I am missing from the other end. Do you make the whole line, including the other side?
OK, I understand. That wire isn't on my truck anymore.

@Hokie LX can you grab a pic of the carb cooling fan wire on your truck? I think we've talked about this topic before.


the main reason i only make these KUSTOM 1 at a time to order , is because several different scenarios can exist here as @GLTHFJ60

is suggesting , and his eagle eyes spotted your severed end that is re-attached to your chassis by a PO or somebody other then your self ?




this is why i request photos of your original drivers side fender LHD vehicle original sau-harness connector , providing you still have one in place so i can best

assess the unique situation and required needed parts to supply you to repair this common but often special needs parts wise carb. cooling fan wires ,

connectors and sub. harness topic .


on one end is a standard across the board ring terminal , special in the fact it's a thinker JIS / JDM solid BRASS gauge material , fender wire harness side , are

several variables , including but not limited to oem connector housing profile and length in millimeters form the OEM Connection point to the ring terminal

THERMO sensor male threads them selves .


do not assume you have a single terminal bay green 1 pin connector like i show above , i have run across more then a few connector and connection variations

some of witch are NOT green also


photos are your best friend here , post several , if your not sure , and maybe someone can spot the sub harness section too ,


matt
 
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OK, I understand. That wire isn't on my truck anymore.

@Hokie LX can you grab a pic of the carb cooling fan wire on your truck? I think we've talked about this topic before.
@ColoradoLC here is my wire. It comes off the wiring loom just past the plug for the brake master level sensor. It’s circled in both pics and tried to take one further away and closer to give you context. This is how it is on my 1984. However, it looks to have been hacked a bit by one of the POs. It works though.

03CE1A06-B51B-424B-A640-418BE68E472C.jpeg


B914213C-B2AD-4EE5-A64D-FCF48712AB8D.jpeg
 

GLTHFJ60

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Yep, sorry. I'm not finding what was left over of the wire, or any back-half of this receptacle:

That's because there is no connector for this wire. It just comes out of the harness. Follow @Hokie LX s advice. It was the same on my 87 harness.
 
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On my 84, the wire and connector were still attached to the sensor, but on the harness side of the plug, the wire got brittle and broke. I had to look for a while until I saw the stub hanging out of the harness. That is probably what you are experiencing is that it broke near the harness, AND fell off the sensor, so there is nothing to see. As HokieLX is showing, trace that harness from near the brake cylinder forward, feeling with your hand to see if you can find the stub.
 
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the main reason i only make these KUSTOM 1 at a time to order , is because several different scenarios can exist here as @GLTHFJ60 is suggesting , and his eagle eyes

spotted your severed end that is re-attached to your chassis by a PO or somebody other then your self ?




this is why i request photos of your original drivers side fender LHD vehicle original sau-harness connector , providing you still have one in place so i can best assess the

unique situation and required needed parts to supply you to repair this common but often special needs parts wise carb. cooling fan wires , connectors and sub. harness

topic .


on one end is a standard accross the board ring terminal , special in the fact it's a
Thanks @ToyotaMatt. That's what I was hoping. Tell me if these pictures help. I can also try and get my phone up there from under my 60 if these aren't clear enough.
@ColoradoLC here is my wire. It comes off the wiring loom just past the plug for the brake master level sensor. It’s circled in both pics and tried to take one further away and closer to give you context. This is how it is on my 1984. However, it looks to have been hacked a bit by one of the POs. It works though.

View attachment 3067557

View attachment 3067558
thanks @Hokie LX that helps. I’ll see if I can find where that wire used to come out of my loom
 
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On my 84, the wire and connector were still attached to the sensor, but on the harness side of the plug, the wire got brittle and broke. I had to look for a while until I saw the stub hanging out of the harness. That is probably what you are experiencing is that it broke near the harness, AND fell off the sensor, so there is nothing to see. As HokieLX is showing, trace that harness from near the brake cylinder forward, feeling with your hand to see if you can find the stub.
Very helpful. I’m also betting this is what I’m seeing, et or not seeing in this case, but now I know what to look for and where.
 
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Okay @ToyotaMatt , I’ve found my wire after some searching. It was blocked by a sleeve that looked tight, but I slid it down and found the missing wire.

Here is a pretty good picture of the wire. Let me know if you need additional pictures.
10F0E93D-2EFA-4304-9FFD-49B0E087C2DD.jpeg
 

Spook50

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Given that the 62 doesn't require it anymore but many still have them installed (I still have my actual fan but not the temp switch), I'm looking into rounding the short bit of duct that comes off of it and either riveting or TIG welding (I like TIG; it's pretty) a short curve of exhaust tube to it to direct air to the alternator and keep it cool, helping to extend the life of the rectifier and therefore the alternator itself.

Considering a simple temp control or a manual switch using a PWM. Temp control would take longer to figure out since I simply lack experience designing them, but would be the best route to take IMO.
 
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