The end of an era…. 🙁

[Swirvinnirvinn]

Glad everyone was okay. That sounds like a scary moment. Unfortunately, I also totaled my 97 in december. Didn't look horrible from the outside, but once you got underneath, starting with the fully bent frame, it was a big repair.

I don't want to come across the wrong way, but I was fully prepared for all the things I'd heard re: insurance claims with these trucks, and none of it was the case for me. I had full coverage Geico. Repair estimate was 28K, obviously totaled, and I ended up getting paid quite a bit more than expected without having to fight it once. Check came within a week. They did all the legwork with comps/etc. And this was an LX on paper, not "Toyota." I don't know why that's how it worked out for me… feels like I cheated.

I've only ever had that insurance, and long story short, I switched to State Farm recently with my 98 4Runner. Some of the comments here make me a little nervous for the future, but knock on steel I won't have to deal with a totaled vehicle again. Best of luck to you. Agreed on not accepting an offer until you find it reasonable. I've read a handful of stories here about folks who were lowballed, put in a bit of time going back & forth, and got quite a bit more in the end. The comps are out there, and if you think of the few hours looking vs how much more you could get, it's a darn good wage.

Not exactly sure what point I'm trying to make. Perhaps just giving an example to let you know you can find a positive outcome, despite the situation.

In all honesty, I appreciate every word in this response boss! It does show that something more may be possible if I hold it down, and I hope that being in Alaska and the laws possibly being different, you’ll still be taken care of, but I also knocked on both wood and steel for nothing of the sort to happen to you!

Aside from that, I’ve been considering a runner and 100 series Land Cruiser, but I would really love to be back in an 80 if possible. It is seeming more narrow as I see more of the current market, but I would also like to show SF that info to let them know how hard that would be. I have also considered a 3rd party appraiser to at least get more out, but experience has always been the best imo.

I do really appreciate your take though! I hope that runner has been fun for you also! I love that rear windshield function that would make carrying long items a breeze!

 

[Elbee]

I would say it would be if it weren’t a 97 with OBDII, triple locked, 40th anniversary with work done on it (all receipts on hand for everything I’ve purchased and done, but I’ve heard that doesn’t matter) and an ARB bumper. I’ve been searching like a mad man through it all unfortunately, and even a 97 40th anniversary with no lockers and stock seems to be closer to $20k. Not to mention there’s seems to be no work on the coolant hoses, radiator, or clutch and thermostat.

I hope that doesn’t come off as too aggressive as I’m not trying to attack or anything. I would just like to be able to buy something similar to where I sort of left off, but appreciate your input.

I would submit a ton of comps to the insurance company then. I had a 100 series that got totaled after 3 months of ownership and lots of preventative maintenance.
They originally offered 12k, I submitted a ton of comps and eventually I got 17k for it.

 

[Swirvinnirvinn]

I would submit a ton of comps to the insurance company then. I had a 100 series that got totaled after 3 months of ownership and lots of preventative maintenance.
They originally offered 12k, I submitted a ton of comps and eventually I got 17k for it.

I was told that wouldn’t make a difference really to most insurance companies, but I do appreciate the info, as it’ll come in handy for sure!

 

[greentruck]

Except for being triple locked, that number is within a couple of hundred of what Farmers gave me for my 97. That should add a couple thousand, but not sure that insurance companies see it the same way we do. Your best bet is to focus on comps that include 3x locked.

Alternatively, it may be worth documenting that number as appropriate for a non-locked 80, but insufficient for a 3x locked 80. Not sure what databases they use to pull numbers from, but my total was from Oct. 23 in IL if that helps.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I agree. I'd also be cautious about bringing up the radiator or other potentially toasty parts right at this point. The number they have done may be close to the totaled value. Anything missed in the evaluation process will get fixed, but if you push it into totaled territory before work starts then they'll do that instead of fixing it. Once they're deep into it, that won't matter they'll just carry on with fixing it.

Very true.
My brother worked in the auto repair industry in Australia. If repair quotes exceeded 80% of the book value, they'd write it off.
One shop he worked in, the boss would always quote just under 80%, then once the work started, they'd come back with a bunch of "unforseen" damage, parts, etc.

Repairs would often end up costing very close to 100% of the value.

 

[Swirvinnirvinn]

Except for being triple locked, that number is within a couple of hundred of what Farmers gave me for my 97. That should add a couple thousand, but not sure that insurance companies see it the same way we do. Your best bet is to focus on comps that include 3x locked.

Alternatively, it may be worth documenting that number as appropriate for a non-locked 80, but insufficient for a 3x locked 80. Not sure what databases they use to pull numbers from, but my total was from Oct. 23 in IL if that helps.

Brother, I appreciate that info. I’ll at least try to add that info of being triple locked into my version of comps.
I would love to get into an OBDII for sure, even if I can get enough to wire some air lockers, my ARB, replacement of coolant work, brake booster, tires, and the Huracán Fab tailgate, I’ll gladly do so.

This inspired me a bit more, so I thank you man!

 

[mudgudgeon]

Recently write off my f150 work truck.
my insurance company gave me a good letter explaning how they value the vehicle for payout.
It included detsiled comps for 12 vehicles recently sold or for sale. Taken from my state & surrounding states.
Each comp listed the spec and trim level, condition, age mileage, title status, whether private or dealer sale

The comps were legit, and matched what i was seeing looking for a replacement.

 

[dallen341]

I’ve often thought every time this situation comes up, the mud collective should post for sale ads in the local Craigslist at +50%

Give the person with the loss some reasonable comps to work with

 

[Ragnaroek]

I'm not really sure on how your insurance system over there works, but if that happened to me here in Germany, i'd try to get as much cash from the insurance as possible, pay the scrap value to get the car back and fix it just enough to get it drivable while waiting for funds and/or space to fix it properly.

My dads commuter car got totaled by insurance after a hailstorm. He bought it back, put a new windscreen in and drove it for another 5 years. It looked like a golfball after the incident, but if you put the insurance money in to the equation, he made more cash out of it than he paid when he bought it.

 

[Elbee]

I’ve often thought every time this situation comes up, the mud collective should post for sale ads in the local Craigslist at +50%

Give the person with the loss some reasonable comps to work with

Insurance companies want comps from dealers for this reason. Comps from Facebook marketplace and forums don’t move the needle, but ones from dealers do.

 

[sbman]

Insurance companies want comps from dealers for this reason. Comps from Facebook marketplace and forums don’t move the needle, but ones from dealers do.

Comps are required to be on 'sold' data, not advertised price. So no, ads don't make any difference in the calculation. It can on manual review show that there are no comparable vehicles in the price range that they are offering though.

 

[Brindleboxer]

If you are inclined to keep the vehicle, which it sounds like you are, I would reach out to an independent appraiser or even a local litigator to secure your rights in this situation. As many have said, the insurance company is in it for profit and they are not just going to give money away. Their goal is to pay out the lowest value for any claim.

The first estimate you provided does seem to be very competitive, I doubt you would find that estimate here in the PNW. I would point out that there are several items that they are listing as remove and install (R&I) so I would ensure they are actually serviceable to be retained. Another thing of note is they are not going to repaint the truck, they will repair and then blend into the existing panels which can be done very effectively if your paint and clearcoat were in good condition. If you had the typical clearcoat fade or peel (which it looks like you have it at least on the roof) then it becomes challenging to get a match/near match. I would also be interested if they had or are planning to have the frame measured, if not it wouldn't be a bad idea to ask. Lastly, since you brought it up, the estimate has the ARB included and is listed for $1562 which is more expensive than buying from a local truck store.

As for the apartment situation, many complexes have clauses in the rental agreement about non-running or damaged vehicles so you might want to check with the complex and see if there is a clause or if the manager will work with you on your situation. Honestly, your truck doesn't present as an eye sore, I have seen worse driving on the road. If you decide to do this, I would establish an estimated timeline and expectations in writing so there is no misconceptions.

If your complex is open to that, get your truck back and place it at your residence. After you finalize the insurance claim, do the things to get the truck operational - you said radiator is leaking but don't forget that without the right taillight most states consider it a violation. If you wire in a temporary light you should then be in compliance with Texas Transportation Code Sec. 547.324. The temporary light could be something that could connect to your trailer wiring socket. Once operational, you can bring it places to get the cosmetic or mechanical issues taken care of.

 

[Elbee]

Comps are required to be on 'sold' data, not advertised price. So no, ads don't make any difference in the calculation. It can on manual review show that there are no comparable vehicles in the price range that they are offering though.

It worked for me. USAA in texas with my 100 series